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Featured Replies

Good luck with it, just don't give up with it! :thumbup:

 

A lot of people say to take the engine & box out together and split on the floor, but you can undo the 'box in situ and bring the engine out on its own.

  • Author
If you're going to that trouble you might as well put a V8 in it

 

Ha! Dont get like that! :) I dont quite have your level of skill yet Jedi master!

a little tip, something i did, might not be as usueful for a swap, but i got a big box of small tie-wraps, lots of different colours, and each pipe, plug etc, i put for eg. a red one on each end, then another pipe, a green one on each end, and if i ran out of colours or might have been confusion, then a red and green, or two reds etc.

 

bit different doing a swap, but atleast you could copy them onto your other engine, and ya snip the tails off em, and they are still there should you need to take it out again...

 

I've always split the box first, the most annoying part i found was removing the ancillaries, other than that, lots of double checking and patience, and when you come to lift it, just a little at a time, check round make sure you haven't missed anything, up a bit more, check again etc...

 

best of luck mate, it's a bit of a joyess moment once its free and you can jack away, and the lump is swinging there infront of you! have fun mate...

 

i've got a hoist, but it's a bit of mooch for ya!

  • Author

Thanks Tudor... Good idea, I've got plenty of coloured cable ties that i used to use for sound systems.

i've got a hoist, but it's a bit of mooch for ya!

I've got a few contacts in the motor trade so im sure i can blag something :)

Thinking about doing mine in the furture so tips I can pick up will be handy.

I see your in Bristol, got anyone to help you?

If not I'm only up the road in Swindon if you get stuck bud

they come out the top mate i`d say its a 5-6 hour job first time round if your any good with a spanner,undo the box first(you`ll bennefit later)you can leave air con pump power steering pump and alternater all on the engine.just disconnect the engine loom from just behind the drivers headlight,injectors,coil packs,lambda sensors etc will need disconnecting seperatly,undo your engine mounts from under the arches(easiest way i`ve found) then its just vacume pipes,boost pipes(rubber and hard pipes from side of engine) and water hoses,2 of at rear of engine(tip engine forward to gain access)and then have a good check round for anything you`ve missed(or what i`ve not mentioned like exhaust,radiator etc lol) and out it should come,i hired a hoist last time there about £20-£25 for a day or 2 hope this helps and good luck mate there not as hard as you might think.

Edited by milly

once the gearbox is removed, the engine will want to lean back against the bulkhead, just watch it doesn't crush/snap/break anything matey, i wedge a bit of wood there...

you`ll need it to lean back so far once the rear mounting is removed so you can get to the 2 bolts at the top of bell housing,i`ve found the easiest way to remove these is put loads of extension bars together and go above the box.

Lost count of the times ive said this.There is no need to remove the gearbox when taking a 300zx engine out.its no struggle to undo ther top bell housing bolts once the engine is lowered on the crossmember.And DONT leave the altenator,steering and a/c pump on the engine,undo them and leave them behind.Less mess and aggro.

Edited by jimmer

each to there own,i find it easier to remove box first and leave alternator/a/c pump/p/s pump on just un plug the loom.although the first few times i removed the engine i left the a/c pump in the bay but now i`ve removed the a/c system so left the pump on the engine last time.in the end though you`ll find your own way of working which i`m sure will be different to everyone else`s.again good luck mate

Hi mate is it a manual or auto, if auto make sure you undo the the four bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel before removing box, if you dont then you risk damaging the shaft /spline this attaches to.

If you opt to drop the cross member rather than tilt engine back just remeber to mark bolt heads, it likely you never get it back where it was meaning the wheel allignment will change.

If you need help i only live down the road in BATH and i got a hoist you can borrow.

On a serious note, I'm with Jimmer box off in situe, i've always managed to lean on the plenum and reach down behind to undo the top bolts and also take off pumps.

  • Author
Hi mate is it a manual or auto, if auto make sure you undo the the four bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel before removing box, if you dont then you risk damaging the shaft /spline this attaches to.

If you opt to drop the cross member rather than tilt engine back just remeber to mark bolt heads, it likely you never get it back where it was meaning the wheel allignment will change.

If you need help i only live down the road in BATH and i got a hoist you can borrow.

 

its a manual, from reading all your advice i'll leave the box in and just take the block out. Im sure theres lots of friendly Z fans here to offer more advice or help if needed :) x

My first swap was on an auto , we left the box in place , saves alot of time and effort , the power steering pump we undid and just moved it out of the way so we didn,t have to disconnect any pipes and the same with the aircon pump . hth

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