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Hi my name's Pez, I've been a forum member for a while, though have been really busy with work so not been able to post much unfortunately.

 

I bought my 'Z' off Matt (Exeter) back in '07; for those that knew it back then it was a tidy example of a '91 TT manual, relatively stock apart from a HKS Super Dragger exhaust, Apexi induction kit, KYB shocks and a 99 spec rear spoiler.

 

(I actually stumbled on an old thread of his; would have been about the time he sold it to me, he then went off and bought himself a big old American fuel gussler van)

It was decent enough but eventually I tired of the lardy arseness of a stock 'Z' and decided that it was nowhere near enough for me.

After a PAX compensation payout, I looked to import something a bit different.

After toying with the idea of importing a Skyline GTR R33 & R34, and deciding that I couldn't justify (in my wifes eyes at least) spending £34k on a car,

I kept looking, eventually I stumbled on a nice looking example of a fully re-built immaculate 1995 600bhp Wide body Mazda RX7, which after speaking to the UK based importer directly, I decided that it was the car for me.

I paid up and imported the car from Japan (and God do I wish now that I hadn't).

1995, fully rebuilt and immaculate it certainly wasn't!

After paying out in excess of £20,000+ and getting shafted by a 'now exposed con man on the DRIFTWORKS forum' I resided to the fact that I would never see my money again or the RX7 that I had paid for, so rather than mope on the issue I focused my efforts else where.

Where to go from here?

Well it just so happend that I'd kept my 'Z' with the intention of selling it on once the RX7 arrived; obviously that never happened so after a bit of pondering I ploughed all of my efforts (and money) into making my 'Z' the car that I wanted it to be all those years before.

 

 

 

This is how my 'Z' used to look on completion of Phase 2:

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/220.jpg

 

 

 

**Note: I won't touch on Phase 1 'cos it was pretty nasty! not fibreglass shite but just wrong**

 

 

 

however, despite spending a substantial sum of money, I figured that the lardy arseness was still a major issue.

I made the decision that in order for the car to be realistically 'driftable' on the track the car needed to lose a considerable amount of excess weight and so began the 'diet!'

 

 

The car was stripped to a bare shell, where I proceeded to relieve it of anything and everything that served no purpose.

 

(I'll take this opportunity to highlight that fact, 'drift!', from the outset the focus of 'Phase 3' was to prepare the car for the track, if you're a 300zx pureist, you may want to steer clear of this thread)

 

Most people say that the Z32 isn't a particularly good car for competative drifting......I say that's bo**ocks! Cooling issues aside, the Z32 is a tidy cr to get side ways.

 

The drift scene is severely lacking in 'Z's to fly our flag. This will change I'm sure.

 

There are a few 'Z' drift builds on going, so I thought I'd share mine and get some feed back.

 

 

Every single aspect of the car was stripped:

 

-all carpets, trim, sound deadening was removed

-the dash, heater etc were ripped out and replaced with a custom carbon fibre/military grade aluminium mesh half dash

-All glass was removed (bar front windscreen) and is to be replaced with Lexan

-cabon fibre blanks are being made to replace the rear quarter windows

-the bonnet, boot, targa panels, front panel, overfenders, skirts, fog lights, front fenders are in the process of being switched for carbon fibre parts

-full 6 point roll cage, with side bars has just arrived from the US

-70" carbon fibre GT wing is ready to replace the old 'small' 60" wing

-carbon fibre rear diffuser has been fitted

-custom straight through decat exhaust on Labree down pipes have been fitted and a custom side exit twin exhaust is currently being manufactured

-all doors have been stripped of any excess weight

-all steering/supension has been replaced with upgraded after market parts from TEIN/STILLEN/WHITELINE/DRIFTWORKS

-18" Volk Racing CV PRO (3 piece) split rims, have been replaced with much lighter and wider 18" Volk Racing CV PRO (1 piece)

-Fuel system is currently being replaced with a 22 gallon US imported FUAL SAFE fuel cell with built in cut off & fire extinguisher system

-complete fuel system rebuild, twin 044 Bosch pumps utilising AEM EMS/fuel components, upgrading the NISMO 740's for larger injectors

-AEM electronic ignition fuel sytem

-RACE TECHNOLOGY DASH 2/DL1 (data logger) system/VIDEO 4 (on board EMS compatable video)

-full brake upgrade 12 pot (380mm) & 6 pot (356mm)

 

-Takata 6 point harnesses

-cooling is provided by AEM water/methanol injection, upgraded PACE side mounted intercoolers, Koyo rad, HEL oil cooler, carbon vented nose panel, carbon vented bonnet, carbon venturi ducts

 

-the current carbon fibre seats unfortunately aren't FIA approved so will shortly have to be replaced

 

 

 

 

 

Full engine spec will be posted tomorrow: Carrillo rods, Arias pistons, NISMO 740cc injectors (upgraing shortly to larger 1000cc injectors), twin GT675RS roller bearing turbos etc.

 

I'll get the full spec up and welcome any advise.

 

99% of the car's component have had to be imported from the US or Japan (or brought back by me from my many trips to the US) UK customs have been very good to be fair and have turned a blind eye on all occassions! bless 'em.

 

 

 

 

 

Carbon fibre/Mil.spec aluminium half dash, NISMO GT shift knob, C's JAPAN short shifter kit, the Personal 'OZ RACING' limited edition steering wheel (1 of only 500)was a Christmas present fro my wife.

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/007-1.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/018.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/016.jpg

 

 

 

Loads of DRIFTWORKS goodies, TEIN TYPE FLEX coilovers (with EDFC), STILLEN anti roll bars, CZP & WHITELINE droplinks

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/017.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/012.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/013.jpg

 

 

 

Full weld in roll cage imported from the US (primered just to stop the surface rust in the mean time)

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/003.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/004.jpg

 

 

 

Twin JWT pop chargers and Z1 Doolz kit, HEL 19 row oil cooler, twin Bailey BOV's (some tatty looking SAMCO hose in there at the mo that'll need replacing shortly)

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/009.jpg

 

 

 

Some of the AEM parts that made it through the 'volcanic ash cloud' (hopefully more to follow over the next few days), TEIN and BLITZ parts = loads of wires = Japanese insruction manual = loads of smacking head off garage door in frustration!!!! can't wait.....

 

 

 

Z32 balancing on 2 x space saver wheels....not really.... obviously just extra safety measure if 4 tonne axle stands don't surfice.

 

Carbon fibre overfender just tacked on to cut and prepare mould for custom carbon kit.

 

Quite lucky with the Volks offset, as they are a perfect fit for stock arches, the brakes (not fitted in the pic) push them out a bit but I need to play with the geometry and possibly add spacers on the rear.

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/006.jpg

 

 

 

Carbon fibe rear diffuser (I should have all of the front and rear lower arms replaced with the DRIFTWORKS parts within the week)

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/037.jpg

 

 

 

I'm preparing a full build portfolio (sifting through about 800 pics) to add to the thread, I'll post some decent pics of the build over the next few days.

 

 

 

Loving the forum fellas by the way........

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  • Author

To be fair, Usein Bolt isn't the prettiest fooker' but that doesn't stop him from being fast as fook on the track!

 

usein_bolt_080821_03_WIDE.jpg

 

:tt2:

Edited by jap.slapper

  • Author
Probably one of the ugliest Z32s I've seen in a while, but there's some VERY nice internal and mechanical gubbins going into that. :duffer: :D

 

Besides, it's the inner beauty and strength that counts :tt2::tt2::tt2:

 

goonies_sloth_1024.jpg

  • Author
Awesome build mate, and know what you mean about a lack of zeds in the drift and race scene. I'm just breaking my zed track/race car now for various reasons :sad: - in fact i think you mailed me on ebay about the BOVS - but it was an awesome bit of kit, good luck with the project.

 

May have missed it in all the detail in your thread but if you need a rad I have a big, hardly used KOYO rad which kept my 580bhp race car cool enough. Will be positng loads of bits up on here for sale as soon as I get myself sorted anyway.

 

 

Sorry to hear that you're breaking it, that's a real shame mate

 

Ref the KOYO radiator, I've got one fitted (got it from ZCENTRE), however if your rad is larger still, I might consider it as an alternative

 

I managed to pick up some bov's in the end, a nice looking pair of HKS SSQV's

 

 

I'll keep an eye out for your 'For Sale' thread bud :thumbup1:

  • Author

The bolts for the rear lower arms are proving to be a pain in the backside to remove as the cars up on stands.

 

The bolts aren't rusted, they're just very difficult to get any leverage on

 

The obvious solution I suppose would be to use air tools, however I can't get the car into work to get it up on the ramps

 

 

This one was relatively easy to undo, however......

 

 

003-13.jpg

 

these two are a nightmare

 

002-11.jpg

 

004-11.jpg

 

 

any suggestions? :hammer:

  • Author

^^^^^^ I'll give that a go then

 

 

 

Just recieved the extinguisher system and cut off switch in the post

 

 

009-10.jpg

 

007-11.jpg

 

 

008-9.jpg

 

 

Hopefully I'll get this fitted as soon as the roll cage is welded in

Just read that thread from start to finish rather than scan it as before and I have 2 things say:

 

1 JapSlapper you're a nutter - Love It :rofl:

 

2 That is gonna be a serious car. Lot's of top bits going into it and a considered build with a single minded purpose - drift/track.

 

Cant be bothered to scroll back and quote it properly but you mentioned, if it works it stays on, if it doesn't then it goes. My experience of my own track build is that altho this is an expensive option, it's the right way to go when you are after that end result.

 

Top Work fella, wish i wasnt breaking mine now there's another track focused zed to play with :smash:

 

Anything i might be able to help with mate happy to tell you what I can - altho don't even ask about that boost controller LOL.

 

oh, and what you need is a autobahn888 fmic :rofl::rofl::rofl::cool:

  • Author

Cheers for the top tip on the fmic bud, I've been in touch with the manufacturer and asked for some more details :tt2:

 

FisherPriceLogo.jpg

No probs

 

But before you commit, check out Tomy site, sure they do some much smaller ones that hide in the corners and restrict the airflow - you wanna be careful with that "my first big brake kit" you're running :tt2:

  • Author

Managed to loosen and remove the outer bolts but the split pin in this one was causing major dramas

 

001-14.jpg

 

After trying every other method of removing the split pin I eventually had to angle grind it and the whole bolt off (very carefully!)

 

002-13.jpg

 

After cutting the bolt with the angle grinder I then set about removing what was left

 

003-15.jpg

 

After cutting the top of the bolt and split pin off I was left with just the top nut, it took a bit to free the rusted nut and as always the bolt turned with the nut!

 

So I ended up getting the grinder again and cutting a slit into the base of the bolt.

I then propped up a car jack with the lip at the top of the jack sitting inside the groove

 

007-12.jpg

 

 

Note the 'special' extendable adjustable spanner (a pikey setup....but it worked!)

 

005-11.jpg

 

 

The DRIFTWORKS lower arms can now be fitted, though I'll have to widen the bracket on the subframe very slightly to accomadate them

 

 

011-7.jpg

 

 

Getting there slowly

 

 

Will get started on the other side tomorrow and hopefully by tomorrow evening both rear lower arms will be fitted........joy!

Edited by jap.slapper

  • Author

That's nothing, I'm still working on my home made rolling road........now where did I put those toilet rolls?

 

 

9CA3S85YXCAYDJK58CAKP38F4CA7EXZO4CA.jpg

Edited by jap.slapper

  • Author

Quick update

 

After a lot of fookin' about I've eventually got the DW rear lower arm fitted on the drivers side

 

004-14.jpg

 

After much scratching of head as to why it wouldn't fit, I found the answer in a small plastic bag hidden away in the bottom of the box.

 

The bag was marked S13/A31, the joints and bolts were slightly shorter than those that I had been using

 

013-9.jpg

 

 

014-8.jpg

 

after swapping them both over the lower arm went on relatively easily

 

 

Re-fitted the CZP rear drop links

 

002-14.jpg

 

 

and it's all ready for the alignment shop to work their magic

 

 

I've been working on the front passenger side carbon fibre over fender

 

Unlike the other three that are already fitted, this one requires a bit more work to get a nice flush fit

 

008-11.jpg

 

012-8.jpg

 

I'll be fitting this tomorrow

  • Author

Ok, started the day by swapping the S14 bolts on the DW front lower arms for S13 bolts

 

007-14.jpg

 

I've left them loose for the time being just in case they need removing in the near future

 

006-14.jpg

 

 

 

As it was a quick job I fitted the passenger side bumper support arm, just need to tighten the inner bolt now.

 

 

010-10.jpg

 

 

Next up was the rear lower arm on the passenger side

 

This started ok with the two main bolts undoing easily enough

 

002-15.jpg

 

 

However the last one (same as the opposite side) was a complete fooker'

 

001-16.jpg

 

The split pin had rusted solid to the bolt and wouldn't shift

 

Heat didn't work so I've had to drill out the centre of the bolt and used a saw to cut through the top

 

Got half way through then darkness ended play for the day, so will crack on tomorrow

 

Whilst light levels were fading I had a go at the last bits of sound deadening in the boot

 

003-17.jpg

 

 

 

Once this is all removed I'll be able to give it a quick coat and fit the ATL fuel cell

 

 

This evening was spent just finishing off the last carbon fibre overfender, which is now ready to be fitted

 

 

009-12.jpg

 

 

 

all in all, not a bad day working on the 'Z'

Edited by jap.slapper

HI jap.slapper rather than replying just to your email, I thought to join the forum to see what your car was about and reply here for you and others to see.

Firstly re suspension set up, check this link below, heaps of good info and pics here on roll centre improvement for lowered cars. Also squat angle improvements we did to this zed, over here in Australia. Check mostly posts by Black Beast (the owner ) who posts have the pics, and my posts Unique Zed for info.

 

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=298056&highlight=geometry

For drift you probably want slide so no point in changing roll centres. IF you want it to handle though and get power down changing rear squat angle helps a lot, plus other things.

Re your build I like your rear tailgate and rear wing.

A few things I noticed after looking through all 8 pages hear. I will mention some things that may help, being the following.

Easier to remove sound deadening with dry ice, and does a better job.

Brake lines don't look like fully supported and may rub through.

I see factory wires which if race car not needed and can delete most of this to save weight.

No ABS, next step is peddle box which I found a huge improvement in brake feel, although a big job.

Nismo don't make strut braces for Zeds.

Fan shroud missing and works much better with one?

You might find you will need support under tailgate for that rear wing? IF doing high speed circuit.

Brakes are not motorsport type and will probably get knock off with big rotors and better to convert to floating hats.

The top front control arms will bind and come lose.

  • Author

Cheers John

 

First off, welcome to the forum bud.

 

I appreciate you responding so quick and for your input on the build.

 

Loads for me to think about there

 

Reference the KSPORT brakes, they've been a topic of conversation with other members for the last couple of weeks and will need to be addressed in the near future

 

 

 

The GT wing bracing has been considered and a chassis/floor pan mounted configuration is being looked at as an option.

 

 

 

I imported both strut braces via PERFORMANCE NISSAN in the US

 

Both came in NISMO packaging, however if NISMO didn't make strut braces/bars then I'm gonna' obviously have to take issue with the company

 

http://www.mynismo.com/

 

 

NISSAN MOTORSPORTS Strut Bars

 

NISSAN MOTORSPORTS front and rear strut braces. Please allow 30 days for delivery after purchase as these parts are special order only and not in stock.

 

 

Part numbers:

 

54420-Z32SB NISSAN 300ZX 1990-1996 Front Strut Brace $229.99

 

 

55420-Z32SB NISSAN 300ZX 1990-1996 Rear Strut Brace $249.99

 

 

 

Still loads to do yet obviously and loads more food for thought.

 

 

I'll be scrutinising your build; carbon targa panels were intended so good to know that it's a proven option

 

 

We'll get there :thumbup1:

Re the Nismo? strut brace, misrepresentation and bold. Nissan over here sell lots of items NOT genuine Nissan or Nismo, such as DBA rotors. However they would not try and state they are Nismo or pack them in Nismo packaging.

Just a screw fixing......damn those Americans, getting my hopes up.

 

I was kinda' hoping that it was for a special NASCAR inspired (not yet released in the UK) "JWT NITROUS-CO2-WATER-NITRO METHANOL-FLUX CAPACITOR-DIRECT INJECTION SYSTEM"that bumps up your output to 1200bhp at the push of a button........but just a screw you say :headvswal:headvswal

:headvswal:headvswal:headvswal:headvswal BUGGER, now I'm disappointed!

 

 

No chance unless you are removing the MAF. As soon as any moisture is detected you'll be limitited to 3k rpm and run like a dog.

Ref the helmets, I can ask him in the morning, but very doubtful mate.

I would offer one up if it was spare but as my boy, my two girls and my wife will be joining me on track days, I'm going to need it for them.

 

I've got this one spare, if it's any use to you :lol::lol::lol:

 

010-1.jpg

 

 

Cheers for the heads up on the catch tank, I reckon I'm gonna have to sit down and figure out new mounting points for everything :thumbup1:

 

How much you want for it :)

My daughter needs a new lid for your bike :scooter:

  • Author
Re the Nismo? strut brace, misrepresentation and bold. Nissan over here sell lots of items NOT genuine Nissan or Nismo, such as DBA rotors. However they would not try and state they are Nismo or pack them in Nismo packaging.

 

I've been trying to clear this one up with the company that supplied them (PERFORMANCE NISSAN US) via e-mail.

 

This is what I've got back so far:

 

 

Q - could you confirm please that the NISSAN MOTORSPORT strut braces that you sell; to fit the Nissan 300zx (Z32) are genuine NISMO parts?

 

 

A - No, they are not Nismo, to add to confusion, these are sold by Nissan motorsports USA but are not Nismo. They are products made for them but are not true Nismo (JDM) parts. Think of it as like a sublet work by a third party maker making stuff for you to sell on your catalog.

 

 

 

^^^^^^^ So far, this is what I've got back off the by way of explaination.

 

They were packaged together and I am 99% certain that the additional cardboard packaging that they were protected by for overseas shipping had the NISMO mark on it (though it's been a while now so possibly could have read NISSAN MOTORSPORTS???) though I am 100% certain that the packaging stated 'Genuine Nissan Parts'.

 

This is what I've found on the net so far with regards to NISSAN MOTORSPORTS USA and NISSAN MOTORSPORTS JAPAN (NISMO)

 

 

"Nissan Motorsports USA was the old Nissan Competition Department which is not part of Nismo (Nissan Motorsports Japan)".

 

 

surely if the parts are advertised as NISSAN MOTORSPORTS parts, the customer is going to assume that the parts are genuine NISMO parts, so as you say, it's mis leading and surely isn't right.

Especially when you consider that the NISSAN MOTORSPORTS products are actually the most expensive that they offer at:

 

54420-Z32SB NISSAN 300ZX 1990-1996 Front Strut Brace $229.99

 

 

55420-Z32SB NISSAN 300ZX 1990-1996 Rear Strut Brace $249.99

 

So effectively $480 US + shipping and tax on top

 

That's a whole lot of cash to spend on kit that isn't what you think it is

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