Hi my name's Pez, I've been a forum member for a while, though have been really busy with work so not been able to post much unfortunately.

 

I bought my 'Z' off Matt (Exeter) back in '07; for those that knew it back then it was a tidy example of a '91 TT manual, relatively stock apart from a HKS Super Dragger exhaust, Apexi induction kit, KYB shocks and a 99 spec rear spoiler.

 

(I actually stumbled on an old thread of his; would have been about the time he sold it to me, he then went off and bought himself a big old American fuel gussler van)

It was decent enough but eventually I tired of the lardy arseness of a stock 'Z' and decided that it was nowhere near enough for me.

After a PAX compensation payout, I looked to import something a bit different.

After toying with the idea of importing a Skyline GTR R33 & R34, and deciding that I couldn't justify (in my wifes eyes at least) spending £34k on a car,

I kept looking, eventually I stumbled on a nice looking example of a fully re-built immaculate 1995 600bhp Wide body Mazda RX7, which after speaking to the UK based importer directly, I decided that it was the car for me.

I paid up and imported the car from Japan (and God do I wish now that I hadn't).

1995, fully rebuilt and immaculate it certainly wasn't!

After paying out in excess of £20,000+ and getting shafted by a 'now exposed con man on the DRIFTWORKS forum' I resided to the fact that I would never see my money again or the RX7 that I had paid for, so rather than mope on the issue I focused my efforts else where.

Where to go from here?

Well it just so happend that I'd kept my 'Z' with the intention of selling it on once the RX7 arrived; obviously that never happened so after a bit of pondering I ploughed all of my efforts (and money) into making my 'Z' the car that I wanted it to be all those years before.

 

 

 

This is how my 'Z' used to look on completion of Phase 2:

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/220.jpg

 

 

 

**Note: I won't touch on Phase 1 'cos it was pretty nasty! not fibreglass shite but just wrong**

 

 

 

however, despite spending a substantial sum of money, I figured that the lardy arseness was still a major issue.

I made the decision that in order for the car to be realistically 'driftable' on the track the car needed to lose a considerable amount of excess weight and so began the 'diet!'

 

 

The car was stripped to a bare shell, where I proceeded to relieve it of anything and everything that served no purpose.

 

(I'll take this opportunity to highlight that fact, 'drift!', from the outset the focus of 'Phase 3' was to prepare the car for the track, if you're a 300zx pureist, you may want to steer clear of this thread)

 

Most people say that the Z32 isn't a particularly good car for competative drifting......I say that's bo**ocks! Cooling issues aside, the Z32 is a tidy cr to get side ways.

 

The drift scene is severely lacking in 'Z's to fly our flag. This will change I'm sure.

 

There are a few 'Z' drift builds on going, so I thought I'd share mine and get some feed back.

 

 

Every single aspect of the car was stripped:

 

-all carpets, trim, sound deadening was removed

-the dash, heater etc were ripped out and replaced with a custom carbon fibre/military grade aluminium mesh half dash

-All glass was removed (bar front windscreen) and is to be replaced with Lexan

-cabon fibre blanks are being made to replace the rear quarter windows

-the bonnet, boot, targa panels, front panel, overfenders, skirts, fog lights, front fenders are in the process of being switched for carbon fibre parts

-full 6 point roll cage, with side bars has just arrived from the US

-70" carbon fibre GT wing is ready to replace the old 'small' 60" wing

-carbon fibre rear diffuser has been fitted

-custom straight through decat exhaust on Labree down pipes have been fitted and a custom side exit twin exhaust is currently being manufactured

-all doors have been stripped of any excess weight

-all steering/supension has been replaced with upgraded after market parts from TEIN/STILLEN/WHITELINE/DRIFTWORKS

-18" Volk Racing CV PRO (3 piece) split rims, have been replaced with much lighter and wider 18" Volk Racing CV PRO (1 piece)

-Fuel system is currently being replaced with a 22 gallon US imported FUAL SAFE fuel cell with built in cut off & fire extinguisher system

-complete fuel system rebuild, twin 044 Bosch pumps utilising AEM EMS/fuel components, upgrading the NISMO 740's for larger injectors

-AEM electronic ignition fuel sytem

-RACE TECHNOLOGY DASH 2/DL1 (data logger) system/VIDEO 4 (on board EMS compatable video)

-full brake upgrade 12 pot (380mm) & 6 pot (356mm)

 

-Takata 6 point harnesses

-cooling is provided by AEM water/methanol injection, upgraded PACE side mounted intercoolers, Koyo rad, HEL oil cooler, carbon vented nose panel, carbon vented bonnet, carbon venturi ducts

 

-the current carbon fibre seats unfortunately aren't FIA approved so will shortly have to be replaced

 

 

 

 

 

Full engine spec will be posted tomorrow: Carrillo rods, Arias pistons, NISMO 740cc injectors (upgraing shortly to larger 1000cc injectors), twin GT675RS roller bearing turbos etc.

 

I'll get the full spec up and welcome any advise.

 

99% of the car's component have had to be imported from the US or Japan (or brought back by me from my many trips to the US) UK customs have been very good to be fair and have turned a blind eye on all occassions! bless 'em.

 

 

 

 

 

Carbon fibre/Mil.spec aluminium half dash, NISMO GT shift knob, C's JAPAN short shifter kit, the Personal 'OZ RACING' limited edition steering wheel (1 of only 500)was a Christmas present fro my wife.

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/007-1.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/018.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/016.jpg

 

 

 

Loads of DRIFTWORKS goodies, TEIN TYPE FLEX coilovers (with EDFC), STILLEN anti roll bars, CZP & WHITELINE droplinks

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/017.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/012.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/013.jpg

 

 

 

Full weld in roll cage imported from the US (primered just to stop the surface rust in the mean time)

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/003.jpg

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/004.jpg

 

 

 

Twin JWT pop chargers and Z1 Doolz kit, HEL 19 row oil cooler, twin Bailey BOV's (some tatty looking SAMCO hose in there at the mo that'll need replacing shortly)

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/009.jpg

 

 

 

Some of the AEM parts that made it through the 'volcanic ash cloud' (hopefully more to follow over the next few days), TEIN and BLITZ parts = loads of wires = Japanese insruction manual = loads of smacking head off garage door in frustration!!!! can't wait.....

 

 

 

Z32 balancing on 2 x space saver wheels....not really.... obviously just extra safety measure if 4 tonne axle stands don't surfice.

 

Carbon fibre overfender just tacked on to cut and prepare mould for custom carbon kit.

 

Quite lucky with the Volks offset, as they are a perfect fit for stock arches, the brakes (not fitted in the pic) push them out a bit but I need to play with the geometry and possibly add spacers on the rear.

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/006.jpg

 

 

 

Carbon fibe rear diffuser (I should have all of the front and rear lower arms replaced with the DRIFTWORKS parts within the week)

 

 

 

http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a430/azineakinadan79/037.jpg

 

 

 

I'm preparing a full build portfolio (sifting through about 800 pics) to add to the thread, I'll post some decent pics of the build over the next few days.

 

 

 

Loving the forum fellas by the way........

always wondered about the CF rear hatch but remember about weight distribution (especially for track use) Zeds are front heavy to begin with so by reducing the rear even more may upset the balance! Ballets in the boot will help or simple ride height changes to each corner can make huge differences! Suspension is so vitally important on track cars!

 

But very impressed here being a Motorsport Engineer in the making i love the build and jealous i dont have the funding to follow you :)

You're absolutely spot on mate with regards to balance, my thoughts throughout this build exactly

 

The Z32 isn't the easiest car to quarter weight but I've had a lot of help in that respect.

 

Shedding weight is obviously important but controlled weight loss is key, otherwise you run the risk of upsetting the overall balance of the car and actually have the opposite effect to that which is desired.

 

Partly why I've had to now opt for a larger ATL fuel cell over the one originally proposed and have re-addressed the internal setup configuration of the fuel system, dry sump system and battery location.

 

Adjustable ride height will play a large part in this cars setup, sitting slightly higher on the front quarters than at the rear to manipulate overall balance, to a certain degree.

 

It will be very difficult to gauge exact settings however until the car is back on four wheels and ready for initial testing.

 

At present a lot of this is based on informed guessing

 

 

We're confident though (fingers crossed) :thumbup1:

Progress on this build is so slow at the mo', thank fook' I've got 2 weeks off shortly.

Hopefully I'll be able to really get cracking on with it then.

 

First thing is sorting out the KSPORT brakes, ready to go back on.

 

After being left on the car since it was trailored back from ZTECH back in '08, the brakes had rusted up.

They're not too bad but still in need of a good clean.

 

I've managed to get the 6 pot calipers off the discs but the 12 pots are rusted on.

 

 

Nothing that a bit of wire wool and brake cleaner won't square away.

 

 

Any top tips fellas, on how to loosen brake pads off rusted discs?

With the planned fmic fitted to the Z32 it's very unlikely that I'll be able to keep the current twin JWT pop charger setup as they are.......however, I'm looking at ways to do away with the Z1 DOOLZ kit/JWT pipes etc and relocate the individual filters further back within the engine bay.

 

 

Space is obviously an issue but does anybody know of any reason why the individual filters couldn't be relocated.

 

I'll be running a MAP sensor with AEM EMS as opposed to stock AFM

Ok, I've started reading through the AEM instructions for fitting the AFR and they seem pretty straight forward, but......

 

the kit comes with various options for the gauge face (AIR FUEL RATIO) and (LAMBDA)

Which would be the best 'face' to fit and in very basic terms, why?

 

 

(AIR FUEL RATIO)

 

 

(LAMBDA RATIO)

 

 

 

 

also

 

Does anybody have a clue what the small metal screw/nozzle is for on top of each of the JWT POP CHARGER filters?

 

I was thinking, maybe it's for a water/methanol injection system?????

 

 

 

The screw is just a simple fixing - when fitting a single JWT filter it pushes through the splash shield to prevent water getting onto the filter!

Just a screw fixing......damn those Americans, getting my hopes up.

 

I was kinda' hoping that it was for a special NASCAR inspired (not yet released in the UK) "JWT NITROUS-CO2-WATER-NITRO METHANOL-FLUX CAPACITOR-DIRECT INJECTION SYSTEM"that bumps up your output to 1200bhp at the push of a button........but just a screw you say :headvswal:headvswal

:headvswal:headvswal:headvswal:headvswal BUGGER, now I'm disappointed!

If you were to do Water injection wouldnt you prefer to have it on the boost pipes (Where some BOV's are found) or a close to the Fuel injectors as possible so it goes straight into the the compression chamber for maximum efficiency?

Just water injection on its own will make a few horses and steam clean your engine internals but getting methanol in the mix will require hefty mapping and tuning in your AEM but as you have it (I think) go nuts!!

 

All you need is a Water Injector (Power Washers) Measure the CC (blast water through it for 1min and measure how much has come out) a Reservoir (you can use a Window Washer bottle as this) abit of Pipework, switch and a Water pump and wire it into your ECU and Bobs your uncle you have protection at high boost and the ability to run MORE boost without DET w00t w00t!

If you were to do Water injection wouldnt you prefer to have it on the boost pipes (Where some BOV's are found) or a close to the Fuel injectors as possible so it goes straight into the the compression chamber for maximum efficiency?

Just water injection on its own will make a few horses and steam clean your engine internals but getting methanol in the mix will require hefty mapping and tuning in your AEM but as you have it (I think) go nuts!!

 

All you need is a Water Injector (Power Washers) Measure the CC (blast water through it for 1min and measure how much has come out) a Reservoir (you can use a Window Washer bottle as this) abit of Pipework, switch and a Water pump and wire it into your ECU and Bobs your uncle you have protection at high boost and the ability to run MORE boost without DET w00t w00t!

 

I was considering the option of injection through the filter/s based on research that 'Stav' (REDLINE magazine staff member and regular on the DRIFTWORKS forum) had conducted previously with his track prepped RX7 FC.

 

He did point out that he had been advised against this by several people, however none of them had actually proven or disproven it as a viable method of charge cooling.

 

He fitted it and reported that it worked well.

 

However, before I go with the water/methanol setup I'm going to do a lot more research; obviously a turbo'd rotary and a twin turbo'd V6 are very different engine types so a bit more digging around on US forums is required I think before I proceed.

 

Nitrous is obviously on the cards for the near future so will be looking for working examples for guidance

I really want to get cracking and fit the lower arms this weekend

 

 

Has anybody fitted the DRIFTWORKS lower arms before and got any top tips?

 

 

(FRONT)

 

 

 

(REAR)

 

Loving this build. the camera idea is great

Well that was a pain in the arse!

 

 

19 year old rusted split pin wasn't playing the game

 

 

 

Waiting on SPL to get there back order of tie rod ends in (the stock ones on the 'Z' are not looking too clever!)

 

 

eventually managed to get it most of the way out

 

 

 

but then the fooker' snapped off

 

 

 

eventually managed to get it out in 3 pieces

 

 

 

a bit of weapon cleaning oil helped loosen the bolt

 

 

 

and there she is

 

 

 

the DRIFTWORKS lower arm took a bit of working out as it didn't come with fitting instructions.

 

It's only test fitted for now until I can confirm with DRIFTWORKS that it's ftted properly

 

 

 

Now just the front left and both rear lower arms to get cracking on with

Edited June 25, 201015 yr by jap.slapper

I'm considering fitting an AEM 8 channel ignition module

 

Has anybody had any experience with these and does anybody know how they compare to the HKS type?

 

I finally managed to find the time to fit the passenger side front lower arm today.

It went on pretty much hassle free

 

 

 

I've also managed to source a much better ATL fuel cell

 

This cell is made from carbon/kevlar and has just been removed from a Cosworth Rally car

 

 

 

I priced these up and originaly it cost about £1600

 

I picked it up at an absolute bargain pice, considering it included a built in swirl pot, lift pump, filters, braided fuel lines, connectors, aluminium case and cover and a carbon fibre mounting base.

 

I've been informed that I'll need to fit a second facet pump, as the previous owner removed one of them along with the Bosch 044 fuel pump, to fit to his new Rally car.

 

As it's already set up for a Bosch 044 fuel pump straight off, it makes my life a lot easier

 

 

 

 

Anybody had any experience with one of these?

 

 

what games u got on it lol !!!!

what games u got on it lol !!!!

 

What the fook is it :lol::lol:

What the fook is it :lol::lol:

 

 

Apparently it's a Greddy Profec E-01

 

 

I traded my old APEXi AVC-R a few months back so now I'm in need of a suitable replacement

 

I posted a thread up on the DRIFTWORKS forum asking for suggestions.

 

The most highly recomended were the Greddy Profec B II and the APEXi AVC-R (latest edition)

 

Whilst I was pricing them both up I came across this Greddy Profec E-01.

After a bit of research it would appear that people generally upgrade from the AVC-R to this????

 

though I have no idea how the Profec E-01 compares to the Profec B II :confused:

Shall i ask again :lol:

This is the waffle that I'm trying to work my way through just now, in order to understand what it can/can't do

 

 

 

"GReddy's new super multi-tasker is the PRofec e-01 designed as a combination boost-controller, data display / logger and e-manage programmer.

 

The e-01 can provide superior boost response, increased boost, warning meter functions, 3 channel data-logging and access to all the programming features provided with the latest e-manage support tool.

Even when used as a boost controller only, the e-01 has features to smooth out the boost curve.

 

With both an auto and manual setting for both external and actuator style wastegates, the new PRofec can alter its new compact, high capacity solenoid valve via various RPM ranges.

 

The large LCD screen with green electro-luminescent backlighting is easy to see. Other standard features include two preset boost levels, a timed over-take boost and compatibility with our Remote Switching System.

 

The data display can view 3 different data channels simultaneously such as boost, RPM or any other channel inputted by the e-manage. The data can be logged up for 3 hours on an SD card while also giving warning set points and peak and hold values.

 

There is also a non-PRofec e-01 version that is only used for e-manage programming and data logging".

 

 

 

Still very confused????????????????

Edited June 30, 201015 yr by jap.slapper

Start them young eh!

 

 

My 5 year old son, James, is really getting involved in this build project

 

He started to get to work on removing the surface rust off the brake discs, and to be fair, he's done an excellent job

 

 

 

 

 

he's actually more technically minded than a lot of mechanics that I've used in the past

 

 

Well done son :thumbup1:

"Has anybody fitted the DRIFTWORKS lower arms before and got any top tips?"

 

Hi there buddy,

 

Firstly really liking the build. What car is your Driftworks suspension bits for? They only list F & R upper arms for the Z32 on the website, am I being stupid or do another cars bits fit?

 

Cheers dude

If you speak to 'KAM' at DRIFTWORKS he'll be able to sort you out bud.

 

Most DRIFTWORKS parts for the S13/S14 and Skyline GTS-T will fit the Z32 TT

 

I've got the following DRIFTWORKS parts already fitted:

 

-FRONT ADJUSTABLE UPPER CAMBER ARMS

-FRONT LOWER ARMS

-TENSION RODS

-HICAS REPLACEMENT KIT

-TRACTION ARMS

-REAR ADJUSTABLE UPPER CAMBER ARMS

 

*I'LL BE FITTING THE REAR LOWER ARMS THIS WEEK

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 30, 201015 yr by jap.slapper

Probably one of the ugliest Z32s I've seen in a while, but there's some VERY nice internal and mechanical gubbins going into that. :duffer: :D

Edited June 30, 201015 yr by FunkySi

Awesome build mate, and know what you mean about a lack of zeds in the drift and race scene. I'm just breaking my zed track/race car now for various reasons :sad: - in fact i think you mailed me on ebay about the BOVS - but it was an awesome bit of kit, good luck with the project.

 

May have missed it in all the detail in your thread but if you need a rad I have a big, hardly used KOYO rad which kept my 580bhp race car cool enough. Will be positng loads of bits up on here for sale as soon as I get myself sorted anyway.