Since having the turbos changed on my Z the car does is not running correctly. The usual smooth running V6 now seems to be going like a tractor. It is mis-firing at idle and at low revs. It also appears to blow more smoke out of the drivers side exhaust on start up and has a strong fuel smell in use.

 

I have changed the plugs / leads and fuel regulator but this has not helped. Any thoughts on a possible cause guys?

 

I would be grateful for any views guys as the tick over at the moment is going up and down more than a kangaroo shagging a space hopper!!

 

Cheers

 

Simon H

 

GeeZ Simon,

 

That does not sound good, where did you have the Turbos done? If it is running like that since chopping over to the new ones take it back mate.

 

Either that or get a consult diag. done asap, that would be my first choice...then if that doesn't throw anything up get it to a specialist like SE or Darren etc.

 

Hope you get it sorted...

 

Tim

;-(

 

Thanks for the reply Tim.

 

The car does run ok when you put your foot on the gas but just runs shite on idle. It's going into nissan on thursday so fingers crossed they can sort it.

 

Cheerz M8

 

Simon H

 

 

 

 

Simon, (have them) check the coilpack connectors and injectors.

At the moment I have exactly the same problem as you seem to have and I discovered one of my injectors is shot :-(

 

-Eric

 

 

Funny that Eric,

 

My car was doing exactly the same sort of thing but now I'm looking at an engine rebuild. Wonder if any of the places I took my car too bothered to check things like the coil packs, injectors, plugs etc. as was suggested to them by me after advice from someone else??? Well I'll never know, but put it this way, if my car isn't running any better after spending nearly 2K on a rebuild I'm not going to be a f&*kin' 'appy bear...know wot I mean!!!

 

Tim

;-[

 

Hi Eric,

 

Thanks for the info, are they going to rush you big bucks for new injector? I can see another round of open wallet surgery coming my way!!

 

Seez ya

 

Simon H

 

I'm going to replace it myself, but I think if you have it done at a Nissan dealer they're probably gonna hug you for doubling their annual turnover ;-)

 

Injectors costs around 80GBP a piece, but the major work is in the plenum that needs to be removed to be able to get good access to the injector(s)...

 

-Eric

 

Eric,

 

There is a way of replacing an injector without removing the plenum. Try a search on tt.net

 

I'm sure it's not easy though!

 

Steve

 

Steve, I tried that method and I guess it's ok if you have to replace injector #1-#4, but

the ones under the balance-tube are a *PITA*.

My #6 has gone senile and I tried grinding the plenum, but those screws that hold the injector are so damn tight and there's so little room, I just have to get that f&*king plenum out of the way to get to it :(

 

-Eric

 

Eric,

 

I don't want to sound like a complete muppet here...but how do you a) establish that you have a crappy injector and b) isolate which one it is?

 

I am very interested in this process of elimination as I'm convinced that everywhere I took my car to avoided even doing this. Also how do you know if you have a coil down? Luke suggested swapping them round and seeing if you can create the same problem on a different cylinder.

 

CheerZ

 

Tim

;-)

 

 

Tim, it's actually quite easy..

 

If you have an injector that's absolutely dead it will show up as an error in the ECU.

But usually they are sort of half dead and just not opening all the way (which causes crappy idle)

 

Anyway, to check if you have a dodgy injector or coil:

-Let the engine idle, and pull the connector to each coil (one at the time).

coils #5+6 are a bit hard to get to since they're under the balance tube, but with a long screwdriver you can pop the connector off, without removing the tube.

-If coil+injector are working fine, the idle should drop a little.

 

Once you come across a coil where the idle doesn't drop, you swap the coil with a working one and repeat the trick.

If the error moves along with the coil you just swapped, then you have a dead coil.

If it doesn't and the same cylinder still doesn't seem to work, you may have a dead/dodgy injector.

To check the injector you need a multimeter.

Pop the injector-connector off (this requires some patience, since those connectors are a *little* hard to remove)

Once you have the connector off, measure the resistance between the two pins on the injector.

It should be around 10-15ohm, if it's 20 or higher then you have a *winner*

 

If you're lucky the pins of the injector (or connector) are just oxidated and cleaning it with some contact-cleaner may already solve your problem.

 

-Eric

 

 

 

 

CheerZ Eric mate,

 

If only I knew all this stuff about 6 months ago I may have been driving around in my car right now. Luke suggested similar when I rang him with all my problems. Something tells me that even after my engine rebuild some of these gremlins may still exist.

 

So let's weigh up the costs here, say for arguments sake I had an injector on the way out, how much for a new one? About 80 squid I think...cheap and lovely fix.

 

Let's say I have a coil pack duff, how much for one of them then?

 

Anyway, something tells me that even the price of a couple of coils and an injector or two would not quite come close to 2 or 3K which is what I'm facing now...GREAT!

 

Now I feel so much better!

 

"Just going out for a walk dear, I may be some time...aaagggghhhh!"

 

Tim

:-(