Ive got a 1990 TT auto that had its MOT after sitting for about 6 months.....when driving back from the garage, and once warmed up, i dropped the hammer, as one does....after about 3 seconds of max boost (running standard) the engine just stalled (dont panick!) and restarted after about 5 secs of coasting. I drove it home very gently and promptly changed my underwear.

 

When home, I noticed the fuel pump was making a louder whine than usual to...and the car was idling erratically, seemed to misfire.... when stationary and revving the engine, as soon as you let off the throttle pedal, the revs would drop very low and the car would stall 50% of the time...

 

This was all a few days ago.

 

Now, i put in a new Walbro pump, cleaned the filter element, put in some fresh fuel (it had been sitting a while) etc..

 

The rough idle seems to have gone, but when i try to drive the car almost as soon as i accelerate, the car seems to misfire and is very jerky along the road...also, when the foot is put down, the engine cuts out again.

 

Does it sound like a boost leak?

 

Anyone near Dundee or Aberdeen!?

 

Car has the following:-

 

Standard turbos at stock boost

Twin BOV

HKS mushroom

Walbro fuel pump

One of those PowerFlo Turbo back SOBs...

 

Any and all help appreciated

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Euan

could be a pipe popped off when u booted it (boost leak) or could be a loose injector connector ptu connector or coil pack connector! basic check them all ...if all are ok check the MAF

I'd agree a dirty injector or PTU connector/unit, when you boot it (as one does) :) it puts more of a load on the connectors etc. than when it's just being revved... but basically as above... hope ya get it sorted mate...

sounds like faulty MAF (or wet filter...)

Thanks for the shouts.....I take it it'll be a case of checking all the above connectors with a scrape of emery and some wd40....if that doesnt help, then check the fault codes and see if the finger points at the maf? is there another way of testing it? if that fails, then invest in a boost leak tester? and if that fails, start hitting random components with hammer....

 

Have i missed anything?

Check the following, Maf connector, Throttle Position sensor readings/wiring and connector itself.

Just do the ECU diagnostic check first, only takes 10mins and could pinpoint you to the sensor that maybe at fault.

Certainly would do that before arsing around cleaning everything...

smithy

OK ill do the diagnostic as soon as i can (just back from cleaning throttle position sensor, ptu and maf plugs)

 

I noticed it was only firing on 4 cylinders...sounded thumpy and there was a definite pulsing in both exhausts....after a while of idling all of a sudden it went to firing on 5 cylinders (drivers side is still pulsing but passenger exhaust is smother now)...

 

Ive not checked the coil or injector contacts yet...looks like a b*****d of a job to even get at the plugs for the injectors...

 

next port of call is the diagnostic....

if you do clean the injector connectors, be careful not to loose the little metal clip you have to pop off first (if they are still on) it is more than likely that if you drop one or it pops off, it will never be seen again!

to listen to the injectors if u think its not firing on all of them use a long screw driver & put the end of it to the top of each injector, with your ear to the handle(like a stephascope)& u will hear if they are all clicking ok, this will eliminate a few ideas.

Thanks for all the advice....I was away in Inverness most of yesterday...I wish the 300 was working...its a cracking drive up over the hills (but would prob have cost me a small mortgage to get there).

 

I did have it running yesterday morning and noticed the above, firing on 5, but i also noticed that once warm the exhaust was popping after i revved the engine slightly and let the revs settle down (something that it doesnt usually do)...could that mean a faulty plug/coil pack....if the injector is spraying the fuel into the cylinder and its not getting burnt, then popping in the exhaust....sound reasonable?

 

I will of course do the "screwdriver to the top o the injector stethascope number" on them first tho and check the connectors.

Been a bit busy today but managed to do the ecu check...came back 55 so all clear from that...still to check injectors tomorrow

if all your injetors are working then u need to check u have spark at each one, so pull the coil packs one at a time & check for a spark !

without sounding like a complete amateur (which i am) how do i check for a spark at the coil packs?

pull them out 1 at a time! then use a good spark plug & insert into coil pack..the next part will require 2 people ...rest the metal of the spark plug to earth(metal of engine) & while someone turns the key u check to see if the plug sparks!! i hope that made sense?

Perfectly...Thanks, ill try that as soon as i can. Im assuming you dont need to unplug the fuel pump fuse or anything like that?

no follow previous post until you are all set and have the spark plug you want to test linked up,

 

i also find magnetic sockets help lol!

 

chris

Edited April 18, 201015 yr by ck300z

Just listened to all the injectors using a piece of copper pipe and all are clicking away...