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in a twin turbo, is this a good idea? before the NA blew it had a brand new exeedy clutch kit, i was fully happy to use the clutch and flywheel from my na on my new twin turbo because i was told the exeedy clutch was rated to 400bhp, however im getting conflicting advice now, the TT engine i now have is missing the flywheel and would require a pressure plate too.....what to do?

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if you are going to use an N/A fly wheel you will need a an N/A gear box as the TT box has a slightly larger bell housing and the starter motor wont reach the ring gear.

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im converting to tt from na, using the na box, is this a bright idea guys? what are peoples thoughts, iv got no flywheel on the tt so it looks like its that or fork out extra

an N/A box will be fine, i'm running one on my TT. if you use a clutch and flywheel off an N/A then you wont have any mods to do. the gears are exactly the same, the only difference is a slightly smaller bell housing. HTH

im doing a manual conversion and puting a n/a box in it, bellhousing and (i think) gear ratio is different but i cant see it being any weaker than the TT box

ratio is the same ;)

 

soooo...... just bell housing then??

 

 

is the diff lower ratio?? if so im gona slap that one on,,

 

acceleration is king here in wales!! not enough long straights!!!!

hold on then??? (this may benefit you too alxlaw)

 

if i can find a buggered TT gearbox and swap the bellhousing around i could use a TT flywheel and clutch?

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but will the NA clutch stand up to TT torcher?

 

i cant afford a TT box right now, silver bullit, i presume your not running an NA clutch?

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hold on then??? (this may benefit you too alxlaw)

 

if i can find a buggered TT gearbox and swap the bellhousing around i could use a TT flywheel and clutch?

 

see what you mean, i was gonna just grind out the bottom bit like everyone else does, but im lacking the components to go tt clutch + flywheel at the moment :(

the N/A and TT diff ratios are different, such a decent mod fitting an N/A diff ;)

 

you can still use a TT flywheel with an N/A box (and bell housing), you just need to grind away at the inside of the bell housing a little to gain clearance. a spacer is also needed to sit the starter motor on which can be bough or made fairly easly yourself :)

see what you mean, i was gonna just grind out the bottom bit like everyone else does, but im lacking the components to go tt clutch + flywheel at the moment :(

 

as long as you have a decent strong N/A clutch, there wont be any probs running that and an N/A fly on a TT engine.

  • Author
hold on then??? (this may benefit you too alxlaw)

 

if i can find a buggered TT gearbox and swap the bellhousing around i could use a TT flywheel and clutch?

 

as long as you have a decent strong N/A clutch, there wont be any probs running that and an N/A fly on a TT engine.

 

well its a brand spanking exeedy clutch kit thats done 100 miles so you recon that'll do then, i mean there cant be much difference really anyway?

 

well that settles it then, im gonna use the na clutch and flywheel with the na box...... unless anyones done this and massively regretted it? lol!

alxlaw, i think a uprated n/a clutch will be plenty, i was going to do that but if i can just grind a bit down and make a plate then thats the best root for me i think,

 

but if you already have a uprated n/a clutch then its bound to cope with a standard TT like silverbullet said

crack on buddy, it will all marry up just fine.

 

next step will be a full N/A rear end?? ;)

 

damn right

  • Author

whats better about my diff and drive train? i know iv got no rws but whats else is different?

whats better about my diff and drive train? i know iv got no rws but whats else is different?

 

its a closer ratio diff on an N/A so, you gain accelleration but, loose top end.

 

limits the car to around 155-165mph

whats better about my diff and drive train? i know iv got no rws but whats else is different?

 

lower ratio so accelerates faster! whooop (lower top speed)

 

 

 

I want picture progress lol

 

 

lol hold on man! its raining!! lol

its a closer ratio diff on an N/A so, you gain acceleration but, loose top end.

 

limits the car to around 155-165mph

 

lol, i love the way your so casual about the top speed, most people don't even own a car that can reach 155mph :laugh:

 

@wales, its raining here too, you can tell April is on its way.

get yourself a driftworks rear end, solid as hell...

 

S6002026-1.jpg

 

S6002024-1.jpg

 

oooh i like that, is it just 4 bolts holding the rear sub frame to the chassis?

 

That would be so easy to work on if you just drop it off the car first, could change everything in one go then and have loads of room, the more i find out about how easy it is to remove parts from this car, the move i love it :thumbup1:

thats exactly it, four bolts and the frame drops ;)

 

i can feel a lock out bar and my socket set getting plenty of use come summer, think im going to have a bush upgrade time as well me thinks, as well as some hammerite parties...:shuriken:

lol

 

if you have after market coil overs that can adjust the stiffness, i recomend getting rid of the rear ARB.

 

stiffen the shocks right up and she will bite into the corners giving a little under steer which is controlable by planting the throttle. makes for excellent cornering!! :D

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