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Hi all, right, my problem would seem to be an electrical one so will run it past you all for suggestions.

Narrowed the problem to no.6, the cylinder is fine when cold and so far ok when restarted straight after shutting the engine off.The problem occurs when left a while, nothing..removing the coilpack connector makes no difference to the engine note, the same with the injector.

I`ve recently replaced the loom so all is good with the connectors, the ptu is a new series 2 with a new loom.

So there seems to be an interruption in signal when warm.

I`ve swapped coilpacks to eliminate that side of things.

Have a new spark plug to pick up, have a new cas, also have spare relay.

Tested injector ohm when problem/not firing occurs and got 12ohm so assume it`s ok unless i`m missing something, as don`t know much about injector failings?

Can anybody tell me what i should test and the components of the firing chain. I assume it`s ecu/connections,relay,cas,ptu,coilpack/sparkplug & injector.Which of these can affected by heat? HEEEEELP! Please..i thank you.:wacko:

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can't offer a solution Santa but this is the exact problem I was having. I sold the car as a spares or repair before i got it sorted.

 

However this is what I tried to no avail;

 

New Coil pack

New connectors

New PTU

 

be interested in the solution though as I tore my hair out with it for weeks

Sounds like you have done the whole check-list there matey. Do you have a garage near-by who could help you out?

 

Al.

Have you tried your new spark plug yet? Could well be that, I've had the same thing.... But if you have, then sorry I'm not much help!

  • Author
Have you tried your new spark plug yet? Could well be that, I've had the same thing.... But if you have, then sorry I'm not much help!

 

No, not yet. I`m hoping it`ll be something as simple as that! Fingers crossed.Also to add, when the cylinder goes down the engine vibrates a bit, i`m putting this down to being out of balance at the moment,was this the case in anybody elses?

Edited by santa

yeah its well worth getting the plug changed, unfortunately these problems are a bit of a nightmare, but hopefully you'll cure it soon!

seems like youve tried most of the things i would of, my mate is fixing mine up, he said that it was also missing when warm but turned out to be two coil packs. electrical problems drive me mad!!:cursing: :cursing: :cursing: :cursing:

  • Author

Yes, i feel slightly insane at the moment. Just had a nightmare with my daily runner dying on me as well. Distributor had gone, and get this, the carburettor had started to undo itself from the block, no wonder the bugger was backfiring! Could move the whole thing by hand..think i`ll find my threadlock! Can turn my attention back to the zed now..joy!

 

Do a compression check 1 when cold and 2 when warm. Stuck valve????

 

Would this only occur at certain temps then?

Edited by santa

if you have had the ecu out, when replaced the bolt could've over tightened which holds the connector inplace, thus making the connector bow and not sit properly

  • Author

Now that i have checked, all seems ok, although i will track down the pins for #6 and make sure all is secure. Also,apparently the series 2 ptu does suffer from a fault with the connectors.Similar to ecu in that the pins can get pushed back a bit. Something else to check!

I remember i had the same/similar problems as yours matey, run good when cold then run on 5 when warm. Mine was the PTU, series I. Changed to series II and all was fine, for a bit, until i discovered i had a vac/boost leak. The symptoms/signs are very alike to running on 5. Might be worth a look for vac/boost leak as you seem to have ruled everything else out. HTH.

 

Al.

  • Author

No that`s a job for tomorrow, been too busy to check, conzult yes, computer no,missus killed it.Don`t think it`ll be valves as i get the impression it`d be foobarred all the time,moved the car today and as before when cold all is good! I`ll see if i can borrow a couple of coilpacs too.Then see what transpires after i get the new plug in on monday. also i`ll check for leaks,sure i have tester somewhere,just hope my tyre inflator can shove air in there quick enough. lol. Bloomin cars..think i`ll get a horse.

Edited by santa

Do a compression check 1 when cold and 2 when warm. Stuck valve????

Would this only occur at certain temps then?

Yes higher temps when everything has expanded with the heat. Or a lifter pumping up holding then valve open slightly. If all else fails, try a compression check

I had a similar issue - turned out to be the dreaded green fur on the injectorconnectors. I had them replaced - job done. Have ou checked you have the correct spark plugs - mine were not - which didn't really help matters. Talk to Darren at D2 - he sorted mine out for me.

  • Author
I had a similar issue - turned out to be the dreaded green fur on the injectorconnectors. I had them replaced - job done. Have ou checked you have the correct spark plugs - mine were not - which didn't really help matters. Talk to Darren at D2 - he sorted mine out for me.

 

yeah, they are actually new this past summer although that does not mean i haven`t got a bad one.

  • Author
Yes higher temps when everything has expanded with the heat. Or a lifter pumping up holding then valve open slightly. If all else fails, try a compression check

 

ok,will do that then,is there any chemical treatment for this rather than removing the head?

Also a big thanks to everybody that has offered help/advice.These things always seem to happen when you`re skint!

Edited by santa

  • Author
you got a compression tester bud? got 1 here if need be...

 

no mate, when could i borrow it? Am pretty easy time wise this week.Thankyou.

Edited by santa

Hi all, right, my problem would seem to be an electrical one so will run it past you all for suggestions.

Narrowed the problem to no.6, the cylinder is fine when cold and so far ok when restarted straight after shutting the engine off.The problem occurs when left a while, nothing..removing the coilpack connector makes no difference to the engine note, the same with the injector.

I`ve recently replaced the loom so all is good with the connectors, the ptu is a new series 2 with a new loom.

So there seems to be an interruption in signal when warm.

I`ve swapped coilpacks to eliminate that side of things.

Have a new spark plug to pick up, have a new cas, also have spare relay.

Tested injector ohm when problem/not firing occurs and got 12ohm so assume it`s ok unless i`m missing something, as don`t know much about injector failings?

Can anybody tell me what i should test and the components of the firing chain. I assume it`s ecu/connections,relay,cas,ptu,coilpack/sparkplug & injector.Which of these can affected by heat? HEEEEELP! Please..i thank you.:wacko:

 

You say you have changed the engine loom??

did you have the missfiring problem with the old loom??

 

Have you checked the injector signal when the problem is occuring?? Ie used a noid light??

Is the spark plug firing on that cylinder when you have the missfire?? Ie have you removed it, earthed it and checked for a spark??

As already mentioned a compression test would maybe be helpful. But once again the hot test needs to be when the problem is occurring.

Have you had the injector tested for spray pattern???

the internal combustion engine is quite simple in concept.

You need fuel. a spark and compression..... the tricky bit is getting them all at the correct time and in the correct quantity and quality.

if you need a hand or need to borrow bits off mine... feel free to pop round :)

 

Joel, why don't you live near me?!?!!? Top bloke here matey, will help you no end, and got very good 300 knowledge.

 

Al.

  • Author

Will call you in the a.m Joely,cheers bud.

Will be getting around to all that Pete, just finding the time and decent enough weather.Will give a more indepth history of the problem when i get some time to myself. Have a good idea what to do now thanks to you lot and all the help.Watch this space!

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