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Finally got round to fitting mine yesterday.

 

Thanks to Dan of DTA for his professional and friendly service and advice, as well as a very quick turnaround. Enjoy your holiday!

 

Below are detailed instructions with photos and I hope that they are useful.

 

In summary, very happy with the performance of the new lights although I think I have some adjustments to make!

 

There is a slight flicker for the first 10 secs but then the lights settle down. I will discuss this with Dan when he returns. I also fitted some matching LEDs for the side lights which are covered under a separate thread I posted yesterday.

 

I found the most difficult part of the installation to be the location and securing of the ballasts and spend a long time musing over this. Still not happy but let's see.

 

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1. The photo below shows what my lights looked like before the mod.

[ATTACH]51305[/ATTACH]

 

2. The kit that I ordered from DTA. I assume all kits are very similar in terms of the bits that you get as well as connections.

[ATTACH]51306[/ATTACH]

 

3. The first step is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Next, twist anti-clockwise and remove the plastic ring around the light surround and pull back the power connector.

Unclip the bulb and remove. Be careful not to touch the glass if you ever want to use the bulb again!

The photos below show the housing with the bulb removed as well as the connector.

[ATTACH]51307[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]51308[/ATTACH]

 

4. Next, unpack the new HID bulb. It is usually inside a casing. As ever,be careful not to touch the glass with your fingers.

At this point, I would also highly recommend removing the rubber grommet that came with the kit, as you need to use the original grommet. Take care not to cut the wires!

[ATTACH]51309[/ATTACH]

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5. Now insert the bulb in to the housing and secure as you would do a conventional bulb. Note that the bulb should fit perfectly so don't force it.

[ATTACH]51310[/ATTACH]

 

6. Now take your original rubber grommet and push through the 2 connectors from the new bulb. Be careful to not tear the rubber and/or damage the connectors.

[ATTACH]51311[/ATTACH]

 

7. Once through, fit the grommet back in to position as per usual.

 

8. The next step is to find a location for the ballast. I'm no expert and really struggled here. In the end, I placed the driver's side adjacent to the light and secured to a large wiring loom with a tie-wrap. Let me know if it's a bad idea! Photo below.

[ATTACH]51312[/ATTACH]

 

The one on the passenger side was even more difficult and I managed to squeeze it in behind the light. Sorry, no photo.

 

9. Now make all of the connections between the ballast and bulb.

 

10. Next, you need to slot the spade connectors in to the slots in the original connector. Dan's instructions stated that the red wire should be inserted in to the top slt, with the black below that. I found that to be the case on one side, whilst on the other light the connection was reversed. No big deal to be honest but I originally thought that either the bulb had blown or the ballast was faulty, as I trusted the supplied instructions 100%.

 

11. If you wish, you can re-connect the negative terminal at this point to see if all is well. I did, and the result is below.

The comparison is very revealing. I probably don't need to tell you which is which!

[ATTACH]51313[/ATTACH]

 

12. Next, disconnect power again and repeat all of the steps for the other side.

 

The final result is below:

 

[ATTACH]51314[/ATTACH]

Did you try and secure them under the nose panel? That's where i had mine until i had the bumper off and moved them to a better place. Its by far the best place IMHO.

mine just rest on , just behind the light fittings, ok they anit hidden but then again i anit no bling man, as long as they work and sercure thats all that matters., the 1996 model has a tad bit more space then some of the older models

No I didn't. Is that the panel with the Z badge? How much space is under there?

 

JUST enough room mate and yep it is the one with the zed badge on it.

 

I suggested it in your last thread. Basically the mounts that they come with fit 2 existing bolt holes under there perfectly so they are properly secured and very safe under there.

 

The wires are just long enough to reach and the nose panel will just about go back on. Its tight but looks spot on and worth the hassle.

 

Good write up btw, absolutely superb for future reference :bow:

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Thanks zx-eyes. It would be gr8 to have a section on the site with guides/tutorials/instructions etc.

 

Apologies if there already is one.

Thanks zx-eyes. It would be gr8 to have a section on the site with guides/tutorials/instructions etc.

 

Apologies if there already is one.

 

Yep there sure is LOL. Its in the FAQ section. Groover (Graham) runs it so ask him to add it in there if you like. Its a great section and Graham has done a friggin top notch job on it, very easy to use and very useful indeed!

there is instructions here somewhere to wire the H.I.D.s so they stay on with main beam that Dan put up a while back cause mines go off.

 

dan.;)

there is instructions here somewhere to wire the H.I.D.s so they stay on with main beam that Dan put up a while back cause mines go off.

 

dan.;)

 

Intrested in this , not like you really need to high beams but you never no

Have placed in the faq section under electrics until ive created a definitive 'how to' containing the best of the install posts

 

Nice one bud:bow:

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