fitted my carbing strut bar the other day and im concerned by the threads on the shock turret mounts...

 

 

as you can see, the thread isnt into what i would class, in my line of work, as 'in safety'. 1.5 threads should come through or its a no go. should the carbing have a different type of nut to fasten it down?

 

cheerZ

My carbing front brace uses the standard nut and no issues, does not look like your brace sits down far enough or the bolts from the leg are not up far enough.

Is it possibly fitted the wrong way around?

Are you suspension top mounts OEM? If not, they may not have long enough threads for a strut brace.

 

Was the car on the ground when you removed the top mount nuts?

Are you suspension top mounts OEM? If not, they may not have long enough threads for a strut brace.

 

Was the car on the ground when you removed the top mount nuts?

 

Spot on!!

 

There you go, think this is your answer.

 

By the looks of your suspension i would take a guess that you have KYB shocks?

Are you suspension top mounts OEM? If not, they may not have long enough threads for a strut brace.

 

Was the car on the ground when you removed the top mount nuts?

 

yes chap... kyb shocks with lowered springs... better whip it off then and rethink!

 

cheerZ for the advice chaps :D

tbh as long as you have 2 complete 360 degree turns on the nut then its technically fine

 

Mike

just source thinner washers and nuts and away u go.

just source thinner washers and nuts and away u go.

 

I wouldn't if I were you. Suspension top nuts are called 'resistance nuts' as they are alot tighter than any old other nut. Note how they need alot more torque to just wind them down the thread, let alone tighten them correctly.

 

Use Nyloc nuts at very least if you go down this route.

 

I personally wouldn't rely on 2 full turns either, but I am an engineer, so quite fussy :)

 

You 'might' be able to use the OEM top mounts on the KYBs, but I'm not familiar with the Z suspension setup...yet.

 

Matt

I personally wouldn't rely on 2 full turns either, but I am an engineer, so quite fussy :)

 

So's my dad who's the one who told me ;) he did explain the technical terms why you get full strength after 2 turns but he loses me when he starts with his newton meters and torque wrenches :D

I think you'll find that "in safety", Mr J. is 2 threads as a minimun at Inflite!! Don't know wht you get up to over there in SR Tehnics!! :hyper::p

 

LOL ;)

 

Al.:D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only kidding bud!!

yes chap... kyb shocks with lowered springs... better whip it off then and rethink!

 

cheerZ for the advice chaps :D

 

Mine are on KYB/ Eibach spring and shocks with no problems so I think your problem lies elsewhere.

jeoly, take the shocks off, hammer out the studs then fit some longer ones, or (pretty sure you wont like this one,) find some suitable bolts and give em one spot weld to hold them in so you can tighten them up without them turning, or dont spot weld them and tighten them up from top and bottom. Anyway these just hold the shocks in the correct postion the chassis takes all the force bolts just stop the shock moving about.

Mine are on KYB/ Eibach spring and shocks with no problems so I think your problem lies elsewhere.

 

Bet you've got the OEM/OEM spec top mounts though, the OP's problem is clearly to do with the length of the top mount studs. :) New dampers don't usually come with aftermarket top mounts, whereas coilovers (they come with springs) usually do.

 

Going back to the two thread thing, why risk something so evidently close to you as your Z, for the sake of not doing it properly because it's easier?

How about flipping the nut upside down and check if the thread goes all the way down to the bottom and if there is no recess.

 

If that is the case, perhaps look for a nut with thread right to the end and no lip so you would have more thread of the nut on the strut.

 

Also how about a bit of locktite? you can get two types the one which will completly lock the nut which i believe is red and the other one which make it like the nylone locking nuts which i think stops them from coming undone on their own which is blue.

 

Nylon lock nuts, smaller but check for correct size, see this link for a example.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M4-A2-Stainless-Nyloc-Nylon-Lock-Nuts-20pk-FREE-P-P_W0QQitemZ390071805714QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ?hash=item5ad2176712&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

And here is the locktite stuff i meant.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/243-LOCTITE-LOCK-N-SEAL-3mL-TUBE-THREAD-LOCK-4-NUT-BOLT_W0QQitemZ200347721475QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2ea5a79f03&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Looking at the picture I would say they are standard top mounts.

Hang on - I have KYB's on the front and I don't have that problem!!

Are you sure the strut had properly located before you tightened the nuts? If it was off the ground it is possible that they are trapped - obviously the strutt will fall away if off the ground so.....

 

Just a thought!

 

Andy

lol all these replies.. lets have a little plough through them!

 

tbh as long as you have 2 complete 360 degree turns on the nut then its technically fine

 

Mike

i am also an engineer and i have to disagree with that... if i tried that one at work i could be looking at a nice long prison sentence! though im sure some fields of engineering have will have slightly lower tolerance and different philosophies so im not saying hes wrong :)

 

just source thinner washers and nuts and away u go.

...

I wouldn't if I were you. Suspension top nuts are called 'resistance nuts' as they are alot tighter than any old other nut. Note how they need alot more torque to just wind them down the thread, let alone tighten them correctly.

 

Use Nyloc nuts at very least if you go down this route.

 

I personally wouldn't rely on 2 full turns either, but I am an engineer, so quite fussy :)

 

You 'might' be able to use the OEM top mounts on the KYBs, but I'm not familiar with the Z suspension setup...yet.

 

Matt

 

the 'different nut' route is the most obvious and easy 1 to take at the moment. im not sure if your confused about my setup though as i do have oem shock mounts with kyb shocks and avo springs. im a little unsure why some people are reporting that they have similar setups with (im assuming) a carbing bar and not having fitment issues.

 

I think you'll find that "in safety", Mr J. is 2 threads as a minimun at Inflite!! Don't know wht you get up to over there in SR Tehnics!! :hyper::p

 

LOL ;)

 

Al.:D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only kidding bud!!

 

budget airlines over here matey... they flew in... so they will fly out!

 

id have to check my aviation maintenance handbook to brush up on what the current standard practice is :confused: ...but i cant be assed! either way you look at it they are not in safety and i wont be using the carbing until i resolve a solution lol.

 

Mine are on KYB/ Eibach spring and shocks with no problems so I think your problem lies elsewhere.

 

hmmm, and you are using a carbing? and what year is your car?

 

jeoly, take the shocks off, hammer out the studs then fit some longer ones, or (pretty sure you wont like this one,) find some suitable bolts and give em one spot weld to hold them in so you can tighten them up without them turning, or dont spot weld them and tighten them up from top and bottom. Anyway these just hold the shocks in the correct postion the chassis takes all the force bolts just stop the shock moving about.

 

why do you think that i wouldnt like option 2? behind using shallow nuts its the next best solution. i would definately spot them to save them being a pita!

 

Bet you've got the OEM/OEM spec top mounts though, the OP's problem is clearly to do with the length of the top mount studs. :) New dampers don't usually come with aftermarket top mounts, whereas coilovers (they come with springs) usually do.

 

Going back to the two thread thing, why risk something so evidently close to you as your Z, for the sake of not doing it properly because it's easier?

 

i also have oem top mounts so in theory our fitments should be the same.

 

Looking at the picture I would say they are standard top mounts.

 

^^ :)

 

Hang on - I have KYB's on the front and I don't have that problem!!

Are you sure the strut had properly located before you tightened the nuts? If it was off the ground it is possible that they are trapped - obviously the strutt will fall away if off the ground so.....

 

Just a thought!

 

Andy

 

yep 100%, everything is sitting as it should. what year is your car? and do you have a carbing?

Edited September 14, 200916 yr by Joely P

My car is a 1990 and it is a carbing front bar, I will go take a picture if its any help, I still say either your bar is not seated correctly or the shock is not, thats what it looks like in the picture anyway.

My car is a 1990 and it is a carbing front bar, I will go take a picture if its any help, I still say either your bar is not seated correctly or the shock is not, thats what it looks like in the picture anyway.

 

nah i believe you chap... you sure your nuts are the same as mine. there is quite a step in the nut before the thread starts. could be a series 1/2 alteration too maybe (mine is a 93). everything is definately mounted flush.

I would go for a nylock and plain washer with a dab of loctite.

the stock mounts were suppose to fit so the thread is flush with the nut so its nice and tidy, those carbing struts are very thick leaving a little less thread...... aftermarket top mounts would not have this prob.

the stock mounts were suppose to fit so the thread is flush with the nut so its nice and tidy, those carbing struts are very thick leaving a little less thread...... aftermarket top mounts would not have this prob.

 

but why is this not the case for everyone? maybe carbings were supplied with different nuts.

but why is this not the case for everyone? maybe carbings were supplied with different nuts.

 

havent seen others pics yet, other nuts, maybe? btw the carbing is alot thicker than the usual strut braces.

havent seen others pics yet, other nuts, maybe? btw the carbing is alot thicker than the usual strut braces.

 

indeed... fookin light aswell... must be made from a nice exotic material!

I purchased new nuts from Nissan when I fitted the shocks so they are OEM spec ones and look the same as yours just a nice goldish colour.