I have had my cousin (ex army mechanic) helping me a bit with my engine/service/update and he has been aware of my concerns regarding the timing belt going back on in the right place - and everything NOT going bang!!

Hence my care with NOT removing the belt from the crank sprocket, and carefully lining up and marking everything prior to taking off everything to be polished/chromed/powder coated etc.

 

:xxx::x: However, today he decided to stray a little from what I had asked him to do today (whilst I am at work), and he has removed the timing belt and I feel posibly faffed about with the position of the inlet/exhaust cranks as well!!!

:mad: :eek:

I have lots of photo's (change management - you can't keep a good ITIL expert down)... but I am still pooing my pants - so question:

 

If you were given an engine without a timing belt, and you have no timing marks/crank position data to work with - what is the process/how would you get everything on song/lined up for the belt to go on etc.?

 

And no big bang! :confused::mad:

This is my reference http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

 

Yesterday I had the crank and the inlet cranks aligned to the belt ok - but the exhaust seemd out quite a bit - now nothing seems to line up at the top - and what if he has turned the crank GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrr He will be lucky to keep his good leg if this is knackered (sorry James)

Do you still have timing marks on the the pulleys, if you have what is the problem, just line all the dots up with the timing belt marks.

 

Paul

put the crank pulley on to check that it still lines up with the timing mark.

Hi Paul (stop laughing) On the exhaust/inlet crank pullys I ground a mark in (as the sprockets were going off to be chromed) and marked the belt accordingly so yes - but not the crank pully at the mo as that is in Dorset currently, and has been replaced with a Unorthodox pully - that has no marks - doh! The old pulley will be back next week.

 

If I was doing a complete engine rebuild - I would have to set this up from scratch right - so there must be a way to confirm. I am being a little manic - but bear with me ;-)

This is my reference http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

 

Yesterday I had the crank and the inlet cranks aligned to the belt ok - but the exhaust seemd out quite a bit - now nothing seems to line up at the top - and what if he has turned the crank GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrr He will be lucky to keep his good leg if this is knackered (sorry James)

 

Page EM18

Thats fine, the marks are on the camshaft sprockets and the crank sprocket, not the actual crank pulley.

 

The marks on the standard crank pulley is for checking timing with CAS adjustments.

Edited July 6, 200916 yr by Yowser

you only need the crank sprocket, do you have that.

Thanks Dave.

OK - I will try and sleep on it and take a look with a clear head tomorrow if I get chance...

 

So what should the process be now - from scratch - for a dummy please?

 

Go back to page EM18 and start again?

Yes the sprocket is still untouched...

Andy, Andy, Andy :headvswal what you like eh?

 

Ok no worries easy to sort this for you, when you putting this back together? will be easier for me to go through it on the phone as you dod it, taht way no mistakes will be made. Call me or mail me your number and will sort out when your doing it and arrange a phone call at the appropriate time.

 

If that is unworkable for you, will write you a step by step in a real world explaination not workshop manual speak and mail it to you, let me know what you prefer.

 

Jeff

 

jeff@zedworld.co.uk

Edited July 6, 200916 yr by JeffTT

One more - is the crankshaft sprocket pre-marked by OEM as I never marked it as I never intended to remove/move the belt from the crankshaft.

Thank you Jeff matey - that is like tucking me in, and calming me with hot chocolate and a cookie. ;-)))))

 

I would like the written form ideally then we could share with other twits/sorry people learning to flush money/time down the toilet like me ha ha.

 

But I will still probably call you...

 

Sleepy now Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

andy.gp@gmx.com

0797 690 5793

Jeff - I will now probably not get back to this until the weekend so...

Jeff - I will now probably not get back to this until the weekend so...

 

....so I will make sure you have all the info you need for then with pictures etc.:D

 

Jeff TT

If it not tooooooooooo inconvenient that would be better than fantastic Jeff sir - and very much appreciated.

 

A

i'd be interested in a copy of that tooo if poss please

 

cheers

 

rich

Jeff - how was your day? How goes the [idiots guide to] timing belt fit/setup - I need something to read in the bath tonight ;-)))). lol

 

Just kidding - catch ya later.

Best regards. AndyGP

Hi lads yes just got resize the photos and finish the end text so will e-mail to you later, will post it here too.

 

Jeff

This may be of some use?

 

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/60ktech.html

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=809214

 

The pics don't show on the second link, but if you go into the site FAQ it gives the pics separately!

The following write up is not a detailed cam belt swap far from it, as requested by Andy Gp this just deals with the actual method of timing of the belt when replacing with a new one, the engine in question is in a scrapper we use for photo purposes hence the belt is all I have concentrated on.

 

Here we have an old belt fitted with all of the reference timing marks highlighted

 

Here we have the crank sprocket, this is where most mistakes are made due to the marks been low down and less easy to see.

 

Left hand cams up close showing reference timing marks

 

Right hand cams up close showing reference timing marks

 

Bottom sprocket showing timing marks

 

 

Preparation now, the new cambelt comes with all of the timing marks set out on the back of the belt in a yellow colour. A little trick is to mark the edge of the belt in line with the original marks with tipex, the reason for this will come apparent later.

 

cambelt timing marks

 

cambelt timing belt + tipex

 

cambelt timing belt + tipex

 

 

Go to next post for part two

 

Jeff

Edited July 11, 200916 yr by JeffTT

Having previously prepared the new belt marks and the reference marks on the top back plates, cam sprockets and crank sprocket the belt can be loosely fitted.

 

Starting at the right hand cam sprockets feed the belt on ensuring the marks line up, (TIP use bulldog clips or similar to hold the belt in place on each sprocket) most times this leaves the last cam sprocket on the left not lined up, use grips or similar to turn the sprocket slightly until it lines up, REMEBER and I cannot mention this enough, to be lining the BELT marks with the SPROCKET marks and NOT the back plate, they where only for reference, there is a set teeth count between the various timing marks and this is why the belt markings against the cams is the important settings, in fact the back plate markings will not all line up with the belt later do not concern yourself with this provided the belt/cams are ok

 

The belt is in place and clipped

 

Overview of total belt fit ( loosely) with clips in place.

 

So now to the bottom sprocket, this is where most mistakes are made as the belt timing line is almost out of view from above, now the tipex marking on the edge of the belt makes sense, as shown the belt is still loose and the bottom sprocket is NOT lined up

 

As the top of the belt is held in place by the clips the cranks can be turned slightly till the marks line up.

 

Bottom sprocket lined up.

 

Time now to start taking the slack out of the belt but ensure the belt does not slip.

 

Introduce the tensioner pulley complete with 17mm headed fixing bolt, use the pulley to keep the belt tight as the pulley bolt is tightened make sure the belt does not slip

 

Tensioner bolt been tightened, belt almost done

 

 

Part 3 on next thread

 

Jeff TT

Edited July 11, 200916 yr by JeffTT

All tight

 

Overview of new belt fitted but NOT tensioned

 

Now attention moves to the tensioner and the 10mm bolt that was used to compress the tensioner whilst the belt was changed, here the tensioner is still held completely in

 

Now check ALL of the timing marks, twice, and once again, remove the bull clips at the top

Undo the 10m bolt with a spanner, observe any movement at the tensioner, a slight amount will be seen but not fully yet, ensure the bolt is removed completely,

 

Turn the engine forwards one half rotation, then back one half rotation, now turn forward until the timing marks on the cams and the back plate line up approx. and of course the bottom sprocket, this should show more accurately (NOTE the belt marks will NOT line up at this point )

The gap in the photo is too small, approx. double that amount is preferred, if after turning the gap is incorrect the adjuster base setting on the block will need adjusting, this requires the 10 mm bolt to be refitted in the adjuster and tightened only enough to maintain the gap you have, loosen the 12mm bolts on the adjuster slightly, swing the adjuster block to loosen the belt slightly then retighten, now remove the 10mm bolt again and turn he crank observing the gap again.

 

Here overview showing all in place tensioned and belt position showing the writing at the top right cams, one more final check of the timing marks and that's it.

 

Hope that helps guys,

 

Jeff TT

Edited July 11, 200916 yr by JeffTT

suuuuuuuuuuppppppppeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb

 

that man

 

thank you very much, that should be a sticky

 

rich