ok i still cant seem to get rid of this bloody rattle and it is really starting to do my head in. ok when ticking over cars sounds fine i can rev up the engine and still sounds fine. Now when i take it out for a run all is ok until i push a little harder. as soon as get some boost i get this annoying rattle (metalic). the more boost the louder the rattle. i have checked heat shield around turbos and they seem fine. it seems to be coming from front passenger side. is there anything that i may have missed. iv also checked brake disk plate and also seems fine. :headvswal:headvswal:headvswal:mad::mad:

You will not reach full boost as the engine is not under load.

 

Really your knock sensor should pick up the dett and put it into safety mode. Unless the knock sensor has been bypassed like mine.

 

Do you have boost jets in or incressed boost, as this will cause dett if the boost it to high

 

I doubt it will show up on the conZult

You will not reach full boost as the engine is not under load.

 

 

thats what i meant with the turbo rattle, wont be under load just by revving it

really hope im wrong for richards sake

ok nothin showed up on conzult but it has had a det sensor relocation. bit of a botch job but i was able to plug it back into the old sensor which wire was still sat at the back of the engine. rattle is still there and shows up on conzult but is gone when i plug it back into the relocated sensor. so what now. i know i going bald from this as it taking me longer to wash my face.

deffo detonatin then, dont drive it anymore til sorted, it will kill ya engine quickly, dont even drive and take ya time, get it sorted mate, ive never heard dett thats why i cant comment on the noise, but i do know what damage it does

where do i start on a dett sensor. what do i fix. its been relocated and now doesnt show up on conzult so im confused

make sure its dett sensor failure first, if its actually detting then its running lean somehow, get it to a specialist before you kill the engine, wish i could helo

p more but im not too clever with dett and dont know the in's and out's so to speak

Just to add to the detonation theme.

 

From what i've read and seen, it's most likely to be knock or pinking.

 

Is it like metallic rain or a more heavy solid sound?

 

I doubt it would be proper detonation as the engine would be dead within a very short space of time, as the heat is normally always due to spark plugs going supernova.

Thats exactly what it sounds like. metal rain. so is my engine knackered or what can i do to fix it. iv spent a fortune on it and dont know how to fix it. i do most of my own work on the car so is it possible for me to fix it. please someone tell me how to fix this.

Richard, there are many reasons for det to happen, low octane fuel, timing out, wrong air/fuel mixture, the det sensor is only there to detect a problem not to stop it, I would look at getting the timing and air/fuel mixture checked out first and go from there. Ask JeffTT to look at this thread he maybe able to point you in the right direction.

 

Paul

put it on conzult again during the night and the a/f ratio says leans one minute and rich the next. i took pics of the conzult reading and will try to put them up as soon as i can.

Thats exactly what it sounds like. metal rain. so is my engine knackered or what can i do to fix it. iv spent a fortune on it and dont know how to fix it. i do most of my own work on the car so is it possible for me to fix it. please someone tell me how to fix this.

 

Richard, there are many reasons for det to happen, low octane fuel, timing out, wrong air/fuel mixture, the det sensor is only there to detect a problem not to stop it, I would look at getting the timing and air/fuel mixture checked out first and go from there. Ask JeffTT to look at this thread he maybe able to point you in the right direction.

 

Paul

 

As above, don't fret, just have to go back to basics and work through each system to confirm every thing is working as it should.

 

If it sounds like metallic rain i would suggest pinking, which is too much advance to me from what i understand, you'd need to confirm that with a timing light on the crank against what the ECU thinks it's seeing. Conzult or datascan is ideal for this.

 

The sound diagnosis is hard, my dad has tried to simulate pinking and knock before for me and theres a difference as knock is a heavy thud but it's very fine. Knock would be caused by clashing flame fronts at combustion. This would be as a result of the bits mentioned by 300zedx.

 

You'll not get the engine to boost properly as with the wheels off the ground free wheeling there is no load on the crank to increase the air drawn in. It's the resistance of the drive train on the road that increases the torque of the engine to give you boost from the increased exhaust flow.

You can still drive the zx but dont boost it, just drive normal for now and you will be fine. You engine is no where near knackered and nothing is really wrong. Just a minor/simple fix

 

As Sean above said really...

 

Has your car had its boost increased. This will most likely be the case and it has been set to high (via boost jets) this will cause your engine to run lean as the fuel injectors with not be able to cope with the demand.

 

Get some different boost jets in and run some shell Vpower or bp ultimate and you should be fine :)

 

Will only cost you £10 to fix :)

put it on conzult again during the night and the a/f ratio says leans one minute and rich the next. i took pics of the conzult reading and will try to put them up as soon as i can.

 

Might be wrong, sounds like you've taken that from the lamda sensors which will fluctuate between rich and lean at idle as they control the emissions and keep the cats happy by keeping the afr at 14.7 or there abouts.

a/f base at idle reads 109 (engine warm) af base SL RH READS 100. o2 SENSOR b1 READS 0. O2 sensor B2 reads 0. i have been trying to understand what these reading mean by not getting any sleep last night but i think i will leave it to the pros. Timimg is set at 15 degrees which i set myself after i changed my belt. i used a timing light from crank. believe it or not i have a fully operational garage with 1000s euro worth of tool. but cant fix when i dont know whats wrong. this car is my life and if it dies after all the money iv put into it my missus will kill me along with it.

a/f base at idle reads 109 (engine warm) af base SL RH READS 100. o2 SENSOR b1 READS 0. O2 sensor B2 reads 0. i have been trying to understand what these reading mean by not getting any sleep last night but i think i will leave it to the pros. Timimg is set at 15 degrees which i set myself after i changed my belt. i used a timing light from crank. believe it or not i have a fully operational garage with 1000s euro worth of tool. but cant fix when i dont know whats wrong. this car is my life and if it dies after all the money iv put into it my missus will kill me along with it.

 

Sounds like my ideal setup, i'd kill to have a pit in my garage!!

 

The timing I'm sure is set bang on, if the ECU is not in sync i.e. the cas is not adjusted right then the ECU will do whacky things to your timing.

 

Have you had a rebuild then? possibly anything altering the turbo boost pressure like car_mad suggested mig tips in the vacumm, boost controller?

is this the window you where looking at?

no mine show dials (clocks) its nissan data scan v1.52.

i have no upgrade or boost jets. she is very basic i believe. stainless steel exhaust and induction kit is all i think.

 

stenort what picture is that. look more useful than mine.

no mine show dials (clocks) its nissan data scan v1.52.

 

Ok, i've not used that.

 

But i assume it was based on the same software.

 

the 109 value is the percentage of correction to the air fuel ratio at idle to keep the engine at the stoichiometric point (14.7). The usual for consult is between 95 and 105, so this would indicate that you are running a tad lean at idle.

 

The base 100 value tells you what your no correction needed to obtain the above stoichiometric value would be on the scale. I.e. your using a base of 100% to indicate an afr of 14.7

 

I'm not sure how the sensors are registering on that bit of software. The O2 sensor should be fluctuating in voltage at idle as they are what the above is calculated from.

Does datascan have an option to display what the ecu thinks the timing is? I would check this against the crank with a timing light to make sure they are doing the same.

where did you get the software your running. is it expensive and hard to get.

where did you get the software your running. is it expensive and hard to get.

 

Not hard to get but i think it is a little expensive. It does work well though.

Conzult is from a dutch company DTA motorsports, it's sold in the uk by Dan Zaat for about £250 i think i paid. It may be unnecessary though as i know a number of people use datascan quite successfully!

 

Going to have a read on it for half hour to make sure i know what your looking at and what its options are.

 

I'm not sure who on here as it though otherwise could ask them.

when you set the timing did you use a gun with a clamp that goes round the wire on the ptu, if so, do it again but dont close the clamp. not sure why but it gives you a false reading when the clamp is closed

i used a clamp on the no. 1 plug and powers from battery. also set the tps to .40 but that seem to have sliped to .38 now. will reset it.