just putting the rad back in (man what a potch with the IC pipes)

 

 

do you fill the engine up with water frist yea? in the 2 hard pipes,

 

top & bottom? or just one of them.

 

 

or dont put nothing into the engine, fill up the rad only, and itl find its way to the engine when full?

Just fill the rad up all the way then allow the engine to run for a couple of minutes then turn off and top up again. The engine at this point shouldnt of got that hot so it will be safe to open the rad cap. :)

Its is always best if possible to have the front of the car higher than the back, this encourages any air in the system to rise to the radiator filler. Take it steady and keep filling allowing it to settle in between. There is a bleed screw on the left side of the radiator with a large crosshead screw in it, remove whilst filling . Start car, run briefly say 3 or 3 minutes turn off and slowly remove the rad cap. repeat until it takes no more. Also make sure the heater is on maximum temp to open the valve to the mattrix.

hmm,

 

problem is car isnt idling very well at the mo, and trying to keep it starting etc, and burn off the excess petrol off.

 

at the mo the rad is off, and i dont wana keep the engine started for longer than a couple of seconds/minutes without the rad on. (especially if i have to rev it to burn the petrol off)

 

 

just wondering what the difference on the 2 pipes on the engine are, if water goes in 1 and out the other, in which case id only need to put water in 1 the pipes?

I wouldnt run it without the rad on, water pump needs water or it breaks for starters

hmm,

at the mo the rad is off, and i dont wana keep the engine started for longer than a couple of seconds/minutes without the rad on. (especially if i have to rev it to burn the petrol off)

 

As you said in post 1 that you are fitting the rad or have done so already, you run the engine once it's fitted and you've filled it with water/coolant the best you can.

So do that and then ensure all your pipework around the entire engine bay is fully clipped up nice and tight, making doubly sure than when you look under the various rubber pipes and intake pipes, that the bottom section of rubber is on just as much as the top section.

Once your happy with all that, i think you'll find a lot of the running issues will be sorted. Either way i would strongly suggest a boost leak test being done followed by a proper conzult test. Do these before you fanny around with owt else and this is assuming EVERYTHING else is connected.

smithy

Edited May 28, 200916 yr by Smithy

yea but the ruff running, which sounds like on 5 cylinders,

 

has nothing to do with the rad not being connected, its not asif the engine is overheating, becuase its only been startd for a few seconds for me to hear its not running correct

Hence why i said about all your pipes mate, depending on certain ones not being connected right, it will run like a bag of shite!!

 

But you will only make matters worse by stop/starting and running for a few seconds, trust me you'll be back at square one again.

So don't start it again until you can run it properly, fit the rad and coolant etc and check yer pipes.

smithy

Hence why i said about all your pipes mate, depending on certain ones not being connected right, it will run like a bag of shite!!

 

But you will only make matters worse by stop/starting and running for a few seconds, trust me you'll be back at square one again.

So don't start it again until you can run it properly, fit the rad and coolant etc and check yer pipes.

smithy

 

 

yea thats what got planned.

 

car ive soved the temp sensor, and car started so its de-flooded, mostly.

 

havent started it again, til the rad is on, (all boost pipes are fine)

 

just gota get it on all 6 cylinder now/ iddling tidy with no petrol smoke etc