Anyone have these turbos fitted? What did you do about adapting the inlet? Using a silicon hose isnt really an option as it would be too close to the manifold, (Maybe IF it was heat wrapped?) And how did you fit your actuator? I hear this has to be moved and adapted also....

 

 

LYMON You out there????? i read a thread you posted in, iirc you have fitted these turbos, i saw pics of the fitment but the inlet wasnt connected yet.

Can you share any info on this???

 

here it is:

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=47068&highlight=GT25R

 

im already aware the engine mount has to be slightly grinded which is easily done.

Anyone have these turbos fitted? What did you do about adapting the inlet? Using a silicon hose isnt really an option as it would be too close to the manifold, (Maybe IF it was heat wrapped?) And how did you fit your actuator? I hear this has to be moved and adapted also....

 

 

LYMON You out there????? i read a thread you posted in, iirc you have fitted these turbos, i saw pics of the fitment but the inlet wasnt connected yet.

Can you share any info on this???

 

here it is:

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=47068&highlight=GT25R

 

im already aware the engine mount has to be slightly grinded which is easily done.

 

You have 2 options, have someone weld a 90 degree coupler straight onto the turbo inlet or just buy a 90 degree silicon coupler and send it straight up into the engine bay then work the inlet pipework to the filters. Its pretty easy, we did it on my 18g turbos using 3" pipework from the turbo to the filters :)

 

Mike

You have 2 options, have someone weld a 90 degree coupler straight onto the turbo inlet or just buy a 90 degree silicon coupler and send it straight up into the engine bay then work the inlet pipework to the filters. Its pretty easy, we did it on my 18g turbos using 3" pipework from the turbo to the filters :)

 

Mike

 

OR buy a silicon reducer then fit a metal elbow on the end and then a silcon coupler back onto the oem hose :D Silverbullet's setup like this which seems like the best option :dance:......so far anyway.

 

What about the actuator problem, i have no clue what needs doing in this region!!!! HELP

ok, here's a rough guide on how to fit the GT2554R (or GT25R)

 

to be honest if you are thinking about this and haven't bought anything yet, it is probably a lot easier and more cost effective to purchase the plug and play JWT530 kit in the US.

You can buy these kits for near $2400 nowadays.

 

anyway, if you decide to do it yourself here is a quick quide on what you need to do:

 

extra parts needed:

-HKS wastegate actuators (in case of emergency you can also use stock actuators, but better not)

-5 bolt downpipes (split downpipes are preffered)

-2x 5 bolt exhaust/turbine gaskets, 2x manifold/turbo gasket, 2x compressor/expansion pipe gasket (the litte triangle formed one)

-ss flexible oil lines with restrictor (you can buy these as kits in the US for around $100)

-60mm silicone hose, 250mm of it will be enough.

-piece of 60mm steel pipe

 

procedure:

 

-remove the actuators that come with these turbos.

you don't need them.

 

-clock the turbos so the position of both turbine/compressor housing and center section (CHRA) is identical to the stock turbos.

Testfit the turbos to the engine, to see if all fits correctly.

you shouldn't have to shave/grind anything.

 

if all fits well, remove the turbos again and mark the compressor housing's position to the

CHRA

 

-testfit the HKS actuators, close to how the stock actuators are fitted to the stock turbos.

mark the holes of the actuator brackets on the compressor housing

double check this a few times.

it is important the rod of the actuator is as straight as possible and not touching the outlet of the actuators vacuum pot (you will see what I mean when you are actually at this stage)

 

-remove compressor housing (first make sure you marked it's position to the CHRA).

Carefully drill holes into the compressor housing (not too deep, similar depth as the old holes where the GT25R actuators were) and thread these holes

 

-clean the compressors thouroughly...make sure no alluminium shavings are left in there

 

-refit compressor housing to the CHRA and fit HKS actuator

 

-the actuators will need to be calibrated.

procedure can be found somewhere on tt.net, but their server is down atm.

 

-enlarge the holes of the stock oil return pipes.

easiest is to use the oil gasket that comes with the GT25R's as a template.

 

-fit all lines/pipes to the turbos and fit the turbos to the engine.

 

-remove the flanges of the old black inlet pipes and weld on some of the 60mm pipe where the flange used to be (usually about 30-40mm of pipe will be enough.)

 

-use the silicone hose to fit the rewelded inlet pipes to the compressor housing of the turbos.

 

 

hope this helps...

ok, here's a rough guide on how to fit the GT2554R (or GT25R)

 

to be honest if you are thinking about this and haven't bought anything yet, it is probably a lot easier and more cost effective to purchase the plug and play JWT530 kit in the US.

You can buy these kits for near $2400 nowadays.

 

anyway, if you decide to do it yourself here is a quick quide on what you need to do:

 

extra parts needed:

-HKS wastegate actuators (in case of emergency you can also use stock actuators, but better not)

-5 bolt downpipes (split downpipes are preffered)

-2x 5 bolt exhaust/turbine gaskets, 2x manifold/turbo gasket, 2x compressor/expansion pipe gasket (the litte triangle formed one)

-ss flexible oil lines with restrictor (you can buy these as kits in the US for around $100)

-60mm silicone hose, 250mm of it will be enough.

-piece of 60mm steel pipe

 

procedure:

 

-remove the actuators that come with these turbos.

you don't need them.

 

-clock the turbos so the position of both turbine/compressor housing and center section (CHRA) is identical to the stock turbos.

Testfit the turbos to the engine, to see if all fits correctly.

you shouldn't have to shave/grind anything.

 

if all fits well, remove the turbos again and mark the compressor housing's position to the

CHRA

 

-testfit the HKS actuators, close to how the stock actuators are fitted to the stock turbos.

mark the holes of the actuator brackets on the compressor housing

double check this a few times.

it is important the rod of the actuator is as straight as possible and not touching the outlet of the actuators vacuum pot (you will see what I mean when you are actually at this stage)

 

-remove compressor housing (first make sure you marked it's position to the CHRA).

Carefully drill holes into the compressor housing (not too deep, similar depth as the old holes where the GT25R actuators were) and thread these holes

 

-clean the compressors thouroughly...make sure no alluminium shavings are left in there

 

-refit compressor housing to the CHRA and fit HKS actuator

 

-the actuators will need to be calibrated.

procedure can be found somewhere on tt.net, but their server is down atm.

 

-enlarge the holes of the stock oil return pipes.

easiest is to use the oil gasket that comes with the GT25R's as a template.

 

-fit all lines/pipes to the turbos and fit the turbos to the engine.

 

-remove the flanges of the old black inlet pipes and weld on some of the 60mm pipe where the flange used to be (usually about 30-40mm of pipe will be enough.)

 

-use the silicone hose to fit the rewelded inlet pipes to the compressor housing of the turbos.

 

 

hope this helps...

 

Perfect thanks, just what i was looking for.

 

 

is this the actuator we are talking about:

http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=665

 

 

ive also found a set on ebay are these correct:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-Upgrade-Actuator-Kit-300ZX-Z32-VG30-Twin-Turbo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em63Q2el1177QQhashZitem190268434737QQitemZ190268434737QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

Could i use a silicon reducer and attached it to the turbo inlet then a 45 degree metal elbow and weld that to the oem inlet pipes? wouldnt it be safer having less silicon hose too near the manifolds, thought they would have melted? This is what i would?

Edited April 12, 200916 yr by j1mmytt

>> is this the actuator we are talking about:

>> http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=665

 

yes, that's the correct kit.

 

the ones in the ebay link look as if both brackets are the same, which makes me wonder if they are really for a VG30DETT (as the L and R bracket should be different)

 

>> Could i use a silicon reducer and attached it to the turbo inlet then a 45 degree metal

>> elbow and weld that to the oem inlet pipes?

 

you won't really need a reducer.

the turbo in the picture is larger..probably a GT28RS or similar

 

the stock inlet piping is around 56mm or so and the GT25R inlet is 60mm

welding a small piece of 60mm pipe to the inlet pipes works very well and you still have room left to fit the stock heatshields for the manifolds (which will also protect the silicone)

If you really want to you can make your own custom 60mm inlet piping all the way to the air intake(s)..the choice is yours.

regarding the inlet piping there's also an alternative method, which I forgot to mention:

 

you could have alluminum flanges cut and weld those to the intake side of the compressor.

 

This is what JWT/Z1 does to the turbos

 

Ah i think those flanges on the inlets are actually screwed onto the compressor wheel, just looked at a different pic of those z1 tubs and you can see a little spacer behind that bolt which is then screwed into the compressor, im thinking behind the flange is another rubber o ring or gasket to seal it. Hmm could be worth contacting z1 to see if they sell those flanges at a special price who knows.

 

you won't really need a reducer.

the turbo in the picture is larger..probably a GT28RS or similar

 

 

 

spot on, its a "disco potato"

 

;)

lymon the actuators from CZP also have the same brackets?????

 

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/image.php?II=1289

>> lymon the actuators from CZP also have the same brackets?????

 

that's a standard example picture, it's often used

 

HKS makes a kit specific for the VG30DETT, so make sure you get the right ones.

partnr. is 1430-RN002

 

>> lymon the actuators from CZP also have the same brackets?????

 

that's a standard example picture, it's often used

 

HKS makes a kit specific for the VG30DETT, so make sure you get the right ones.

partnr. is 1430-RN002

 

 

 

yep thats the part number on the website, Thanks again

 

So what were these turbos like ie spool and top end, im getting excited already.

what manifolds did you use?

Anyone know where i can get hold of the oil return line gaskets? and maybe one 0.035 restrictor?

Edited April 18, 200916 yr by j1mmytt