Bought a 300zx off a forum member here and all was well. 2 days after i had bought it i noticed that when you floor it it gets to about 90 ish then there is a power loss for a second. does not matter if i let go or keep my foot on it will still have that second where it lets go anbd it feels like i have slammed the brakes on..... Changing air filter this week as noticed mine is black (red originally) however when i went out the other day it started doing it at 60mph... then it will be good until about 90 then does it in intervals!

 

 

Having looked at the forums it could be anything /sigh

 

list of possible things:

 

CAS

 

fuel filter or crud in bottom of tank

 

Fuel Pump

 

boost leak

 

MAF

 

the silly list goes on >.

 

 

anyone had a similar experience? Sometimes the car will run rough until i press on all injector plugs (next job will be to change them) but apart from that the car starts first time everytime and does not hesitate until the power loss problem occurs.

 

I know it seams this zed won;t be as reliable as my last however i am dying to find out just what the hell is wrong with my car

 

p.s basic ECU test came up 55 and when the power loss happens there are no warning lights or any indication apart from the loss in power.

 

 

P.S zx girl. i have subscribed and i need to make you aware apparentely

 

 

Cheers all

oh another one,,,,, possibly blocked cat pipes?

I know sticky rear brake shoes can cause issues at high speeds might want to lube them up abit and check your diff oil as it may be low and not lubricating as it spins at such high speeds!

 

Apart from that your checklist seems to be on a good track to making a healthier zed!

P.S zx girl. i have subscribed and i need to make you aware apparentely

 

You have to notify through this section of the forum buddy..

'CLUB MEMBERSHIP & ENQUIRIES'

Just make a quick mention in this section that you have subscribed via whatever payment method you used, and 300zx_girl will see it.

well it has had new pads fitted so i will check however this is definitely a power loss. and one which seems to be happening at a lower speed. would also like to mention if i go to whatever speed slowly there is no powerloss however as soon as it is under high engine load the power loss happens.... whether it is from a stand still or if i am on a motorway and kick down if i have foot all the way down the car has a huge powerloss lasting a second.....

 

 

not too worried yet however when a Peugeot tried to cut me up yesterday 1.9 diesel i placed my foot down and the power loss happened at 60...... in the end the pug cut me up and i looked like a idiot >.<....>

 

 

Peugeot pretty much killed me

Edited April 8, 200916 yr by damien

i'm tired and misspelling so editing post to make sense before i go bed... done

Edited April 8, 200916 yr by damien

is your car standard? or has it boost upgrades chip etc, sounds like some kind of safety boost kicking in.

 

would check spark plug condition too as my 200sx would do this and the plugs were shot.

im double posting... sorry

Edited April 8, 200916 yr by damien

well it has a stage 2 ECU however a forum trader had fit it and mentioned to me that it was set to standard boost levels...... also i have a front mounted intercooler if this helps?

 

getting annoyed at small cars beating me after the power loss... ideally i dont want to race but knowing the problem there doesnt help either for when i do want the odd run.... first i thought it was wet maf as it hammered it down when i bought it however it has ben dry for the last 2 weeks of me owning it and most days lovely and hot.

Morning, hopefully you are a little more rested now, so a fresh look on it :D

 

From you description it sounds very similar to what I had just after I bought mine....

On mine it first did it at very high revs and under a lot of load, but as time went on, as I couldn't find the problem, it started doing it more and more. Now each spark plug has it's own Coil-Pack (sorry for stating the obvious here ;) ) and each Coil-Pack is about 6 inches in length, most of which is made of rubber. Now if any part of this rubber splits it has the potential to Earth out your spark at any point.

Eventually as I was checking the spark plugs one day I just happened to notice that the rubber on one of the Coil-Packs had a split in it's length and was burnt around this split. I got hold of another one and never had the problem again!!

Like yourself I'd looked at various threads to find similarities and had even changed all the Coil-Pack connectors (most had snapped anyway), injector connectors, PTU and had checked almost every other component in the engine bay.

 

So in short CHECK ALL OF YOUR COIL-PACK RUBBERS!!!!!! :D

 

HTH

 

Dave

Edited April 8, 200916 yr by Daves_Zed

Dave, you are very helpful ^^ i will get this checked asap. alot of my cabling is buggered and i know that the injectors cable are failing because after a few days of driving if i don;t pop the bonnett and press down on all the injectors the car runs crap aswell.

 

I am looking at doing a full engine rebuild next year however i think over the next couple of months i would like to get what you mentioned all changed anyway i.e Coil-Pack connectors , injector connectors, PTU and MAF

 

Thanks for your input dave and if anybody else has other ideas then please fell free to post them in ^^

 

Ta

just check everything even if a part is not causing that particular problem you could find it needs replacing.

Yeah i will do that unfortunately i often open the bonnet and think "where do i start"

 

can't wait till next year when i take the whole bleeding lot out and do a rebuild on my own to learn about the engine ^^

taking the engine out will be annoying as endless amounts of brittle conectors will end up breaking :(

Hi Damien,

 

I've had a similar problem recently. Drives ok during normal driving but as soon as you slam the right foot down to overtake a massive power loss kicks in, bit like you hit a limiter.

 

Have a look at your engine temperature, if the engine is running to cold then it automatically goes into a sort of safety boost, this is what i'm led to believe anyway. I was recommended to change the thermostat and that should sort it. I'm doing the job this week so will keep you updated.

 

Might be worth having a look at as your problem sounds the same as mine.

 

Hope that helps, Rob

you are right and it does sound very simalar. according to my reciepts with the car it has recentely had a temp sensor fitted althouth i have noticed that the car never warms up past 8 o'clock indication (done it once but after a long drive)

 

maybe it could be that aswell.... i have noticed that boosting is pretty feeble until the car has been out for a decent drive aswell.. but the problem sounds so similar.

 

did yours have constant power loss?

 

sorry to sound vague It's just some members describe the powerloss as soon as they accelerate or in general whereas my car will move like the clappers when i move or downshift but after about 5 seconds (or when the engine load gets high) the power loss is like hitting a limiter or a wall just a shame it does it at 60 now instead of just 90.

 

cheers for all the helpful feedback and trying to help me suss out what is up with this car

one thing to note is when i accelerate it is fine. I would of thought the engine load would be highest at a start due to getting the weight in momentum however this does not seem to be the case as the car is already approaching 60mph fast and you feel the car get less heavier as it gets quicker............. then all of a sudden nothing for a second...

 

 

Sounds like this car REALLY is going to be a pain

Hi mate, can't offer advice to you on the problem as such but I would recommend getting a Consult Diag done... This may show something up.. also the car should be warmed up and stay at the 9 0 clock position... any lower or higher then it isn't running correctly. You aren't to far from Mike Feeney (MJP) he knows these cars and has consult, and will probably point you in the right direction. I'd recommend giving him a call, his number's in the traders section...

 

Thanks

 

Paul

My temp guage never gets up above 8 o' clock either mate, however they are renown for being sh1te.

 

Mine has done it at about 30mph before, I'm led to believe it will do it at any speed but only when you are asking for more power, like to overtake.

 

The powerloss is like hitting a wall. Would try the thermostat route mate, cost of this is a lot less than an engine out job. Speak to Zedworld for getting the bits. They trade on here.

 

Regards, Rob

ok i will do. The more info i can get the more things i will try to tackle.

 

keep em coming ^^

 

thanks all ^^

yeah sounds similar again . ill try to show example..

 

 

I have an auto... pull onto slip road... roars between 0 and 60 all of a sudden power loss (like hitting a wall) then i release the pedal for split second and re apply..... seems to be accelerating hard again... hit 90mph... power cut again for split second.... this time i decide to leave throttle on and it seems to accelerate like it did after the last power loss.

 

this time i decided to kickdown from 70 and it goes like a rocket until 90 ish and then the same silly thing happens again....

 

my car is all happy with giving me the power freely until it builds up in speed (dont know what revs although in nutrual it goes to red) then it is like it can't make up its mind on wether to have power later on or not.

 

aslong as i am not at about 60 or 90 mph i can place my foot down however hard i want and it never moans......

 

i will get a video later to show what happens. hopefully this will explain more

/sigh just had a run with my work colleague in the car.. commented on how fast it moves yet,........... Power loss again. this is really bugging me........ sometimes i wish i never bought the bleeding thing............. unfortunately it was the trophy blue SWB look with the 18 " inch deep dish wheels that sold it for me ^^

/sigh just had a run with my work colleague in the car.. commented on how fast it moves yet,........... Power loss again. this is really bugging me........ sometimes i wish i never bought the bleeding thing............. unfortunately it was the trophy blue SWB look with the 18 " inch deep dish wheels that sold it for me ^^

 

I think dave zed might be right in your case. As the revs build up the voltage on the coil packs increases due to there being more revolutions, so more sparks per second. That puts more pressure on the insulation and if there are any route to earth (i.e. the body of the car) it will find them and you'll get a missfire, as a spark won't get produced.

 

Checking all of the coil packs is a good start.

 

HTH,

Ste

Get yourself a small handsprayer (like the ones that windowlene and stuff comes in). Wait until its very dark and preferably in your garage. Let the car run and with a friend in the drivers seat rev the car and spray a very light mist over the coil packs and leads. If you have a breakdown you will see "fireflys" as they short out.

That'll give you a good indication and is free to do.

I must say however I did this on my 928 and it worked and I found the fault. If anyone knows that it shouldn't be done on a Zed (can't see why not) please speak up.

Mike

i will try this.... can anyone confirm if this is a bad idea? also what is the cost for replacing plugs, coil packs and injector cables?

well as far as injector connectors go you can do a very cheap conversion just like dannzx did & i'm going to do! pop to your local scrap yard and check out the ford KA's etc the plugs fit all you have to do is shave the center lug off the injector!!! other wise they are about £8.50 each!!!