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Going to be getting my engine rebuild shortly and was wondering what my options for turbos are (as 1 of mines has seized) I was originally wanting to have them reconditioned but im now defo wanting to buy brand new ones so i have peace of mind.

 

How much would i be looking at paying for 2 new standard turbos + what is the next ones up from standard etc as i would maybe think about getting better ones than standards depending on cost + power differences.

 

Cheers

Featured Replies

nope, you can keep them. Or sell them ,your thinking of reconditioning. Or having the stock turbos compressor wheels changed or blades etc.

i got my tubs from Z1 motorsports in u.s. "gt525". 5 day delivery, and have been told a great spooling tub.

 

al.

  • Author
id say go for something like jwt530bb

 

 

 

Are these a direct replacement for standards ones or do i need to upgrade anything else?

 

Do you have a link for them?

I was originally wanting to have them reconditioned but im now defo wanting to buy brand new ones so i have peace of mind.

 

Cheers

 

Not to confuse your thoughts but you can get the Turbo Rebuild kits (some on ebay) they are actually really good, have everything apart from new wheel and housing so you can do it yourself (peace of mind sorted) send off your wheel to be rebalanced (think AET Turbos 1day turn around for 40quid)

 

and they kits are like 70quid with 360degree thrust bearings for faster spooling :)

 

So all in all for 2kits and 2wheels balancing will cost you like 200quid and doing it yourself you will know its done properly and good!

 

An Ebay Rebuild Kit

 

AET Turbos

 

Enjoy :)

 

Took me around 4hours to do my friends T3 turbo!! Not difficult just fiddly but fun!

Are these a direct replacement for standards ones or do i need to upgrade anything else?

 

Do you have a link for them?

 

I would highly reccommend the JWT530bb's, however the standard Tubs are 4 bolt and these are 5 bolt. So this means you would also need to change your downpipes.

 

I had (got to get used to past tense now :cry: ) the jwt530's on mine and combined with downpipes, manifold, lightweight flywheel, underdrive pulley and carbon fibre prop they spool up quicker than stock turbo's. We maxed out the dyno at 16 psi (530bhp) then mapped up to 20 psi with no problems so they are good for over 500bhp with less turbo lag than a stock 300zx (with the complementing modifications).

  • Author
I would highly reccommend the JWT530bb's, however the standard Tubs are 4 bolt and these are 5 bolt. So this means you would also need to change your downpipes.

 

I had (got to get used to past tense now :cry: ) the jwt530's on mine and combined with downpipes, manifold, lightweight flywheel, underdrive pulley and carbon fibre prop they spool up quicker than stock turbo's. We maxed out the dyno at 16 psi (530bhp) then mapped up to 20 psi with no problems so they are good for over 500bhp with less turbo lag than a stock 300zx (with the complementing modifications).

 

Im trying to price things up just now to see roughly how much money im gonny need :headvswal

 

If i was to send it somewhere for full engine rebuild, new turbos and similar upgrades as you had how much do you reckon i would need?

Im trying to price things up just now to see roughly how much money im gonny need :headvswal

 

If i was to send it somewhere for full engine rebuild, new turbos and similar upgrades as you had how much do you reckon i would need?

 

are you sitting down before stu answers....!?!

Before you get to excited at the thought of BHP, seriously think what you want from the car, cos it will all come at a price!

If your reasonably happy with the cars performance now and only fancy a little more, then the most common simple turbo is the T25 hybrid, matched to you new build is quite ample, assuming you need the rebuild that is?

Once you start going the bigger turbo route, you also need different turbo pipes, then bigger injectors to get the use out of those turbo's, then another Chip to match the bigger injectors, then your in heat soak mode and need better coolers, it goes on because once you start, you need other items to make them all work right or at their best otherwise you risk damage else where.

For some ideas on simple turbo swaps and your back on the road in no time with a gaurantee, look down this page http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzd.html

You really don't wanna know what Stu has thrown at his mate :p

smithy

  • Author

I wasnt planning on going for serious big power, i want it as reliable as possible + just a little bit more power than standard

In that case mate, a T25 hybrid waps straight on with no mods required what so ever and is sufficient enough to take a boost upgrade, de-catt, decent exhaust system, chip and induction, should you wish to add those at a later date. All of them combined is a very fast Zed ;)

BTW, why are you rebuilding the engine?

smithy

  • Author
In that case mate, a T25 hybrid waps straight on with no mods required what so ever and is sufficient enough to take a boost upgrade, de-catt, decent exhaust system, chip and induction, should you wish to add those at a later date. All of them combined is a very fast Zed ;)

BTW, why are you rebuilding the engine?

smithy

 

The car has sat in the garage for the past 3 years but its time to either get rid of it or get it back on the road.

 

When i took it off the road it was smoking pretty bad, mixture of white/grey + blue smoke everytime it was stationary at traffic lights etc so i fitted new PCV valves, new o2 sensors, fuel pump, series 2 PTU, cleaned up all the connectors, things like that but it made new difference + there was a big lack of power aswell as the boost gauge staying just a tiny bit above 0 (but didnt know whether it was just the gauge fooked or not , as i know standard 1s aint very reliable).

 

So i know it's turbos probably bust or something else major.

 

But the past 2years i worked nightshift so didnt really bother about it but this is gonny be the 1 summer that im free after 4.30pm so i really wanna get her back on the road for the summer nights.

 

Im wanting to send it to someone who knows exactly what they're doing, as i wouldnt trust myself to do it + dont have the space or the time at weekends at the moment.

 

I wanna go for the full engine rebuild, as its been off the road for SO long that i just wanna have it as reliable as possible but i dont really know what my options are in terms of rebuilds or which turbos etc etc + dont know what sort of prices im going to be looking at yet......just dont know where to start :confused:

As smithy mentioned about BHP, I would like to add that usually the higher BHP you go for the less drivable the car is unless you spend silly amount of money making the car more drivable with map sensors, light weight components and a full engine balance/blue print.

 

To answer the question about how much I've spent getting where I was, you're looking at almost a brand new Nissan GTR. But if you forget about the body work, electronics, engine bling, ICE, interor retrim, wheels, brakes, suspension and just concentrate on the engine and performance you are looking somewhere in the region of £8-9k plus labour (unless you are gonna fit it all yourself) just for the engine and then a few grand more for the exhaust, propshaft, flywheel, clutch etc (i.e. engine performance outside the engine) In this price are:

turbo's

actuators

downpipes

manifolds

injectors

forged pistons

rad

oil cooler

intercoolers

twin induction

electric fan

 

Put it this way, The new owner of the car paid for the engine and got the rest of the car for free ;)

  • Author
As smithy mentioned about BHP, I would like to add that usually the higher BHP you go for the less drivable the car is unless you spend silly amount of money making the car more drivable with map sensors, light weight components and a full engine balance/blue print.

 

To answer the question about how much I've spent getting where I was, you're looking at almost a brand new Nissan GTR. But if you forget about the body work, electronics, engine bling, ICE, interor retrim, wheels, brakes, suspension and just concentrate on the engine and performance you are looking somewhere in the region of £8-9k plus labour (unless you are gonna fit it all yourself) just for the engine and then a few grand more for the exhaust, propshaft, flywheel, clutch etc (i.e. engine performance outside the engine) In this price are:

turbo's

actuators

downpipes

manifolds

injectors

forged pistons

rad

oil cooler

intercoolers

twin induction

electric fan

 

Put it this way, The new owner of the car paid for the engine and got the rest of the car for free ;)

 

Ah, i wish i hadn't asked now :wack: lol, only kidding -

 

Well my bodywork is finished - (when it was off the road i was offered wide arch kit, vented wings+ bonnet etc for half price and i work in a body & paint shop so i just took it and got a couple of the guys to help me finish it + got my new wheels/tyres/big brake kit already aswell as a lot of engine bling ready to be fitted.

 

Was waiting until its back on the road before getting the ICE sorted + we have a place we use in our work for leather retirms so thats going to be done last.

 

So now its time to get the full engine sorted and the electrics and hopefully drive it again soon :hyper:

if its worth doing its worth doing properly so just go for it mate and dont look at the bills

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