I know the oil pressure gauge in the dash is really bad but what is normal for it to stay at? Mine can go from 25 at times and when i put the heaters on it will go to around 50 :S????

 

Also what does your car idle at when it is fully heated up? Mines currently having fun from 300 to 800 and trying to stable idle, if i turn heaters on it will go to 1100 and hold fine. But if i turn heaters off and slow down at a junction sometimes it will completely stall.

 

I ran a consult and it came up code 54 (i have a chipped auto ECU inside the car and my car is manual).

 

Also i cant go over 6K rpm, i have been told this could be loads of things, but the last ptu died a while back, im currently on a second PTU (s1) and its starting to do what my old S1 did, i will buy a S2 and see if that solves the problem, but if it doesn't any suggestions?

 

Thanks, murt :)

 

Some of my car info:

 

Chipped ECU running at 14/15PSI

Uprated air filter

52K on the clock (full service history as well and a uk 300 :D)

Manual

Cats are still in place but uprated backboxes

Edited December 8, 200817 yr by murt
Added details

WHen you say heater, you mean the Air con compressor, if you have the heaters on but press the "econ" button then the revs should lower again... we'll just make sure its the compressor kicking in making the revs change! LOL

 

Idle control valve perhaps is a common cause of a hunting idle. Also possibly Air flow meter

 

egr valve can cause this as well i believe?

 

When you say it wont go above 6k, how accurate is your rev counter? Does it hit an actual limiter like a fuel cut? Or just not want to rev any harder? Does it make any odd noises at those revs?

 

The reason why i ask about the rev counter accuracy, is mine is about 300rpm out at tick over and like 800rpm out at the redline LOL

 

Also with your chipped ECU - check the rev limit, the mines ECU in mine changed the stock limit of 7000 ro 7550, no ones accidently set it lower when the chip was programmed have they?

WHen you say heater, you mean the Air con compressor, if you have the heaters on but press the "econ" button then the revs should lower again... we'll just make sure its the compressor kicking in making the revs change! LOL

 

Idle control valve perhaps is a common cause of a hunting idle. Also possibly Air flow meter

 

egr valve can cause this as well i believe?

 

When you say it wont go above 6k, how accurate is your rev counter? Does it hit an actual limiter like a fuel cut? Or just not want to rev any harder? Does it make any odd noises at those revs?

 

The reason why i ask about the rev counter accuracy, is mine is about 300rpm out at tick over and like 800rpm out at the redline LOL

 

Also with your chipped ECU - check the rev limit, the mines ECU in mine changed the stock limit of 7000 ro 7550, no ones accidently set it lower when the chip was programmed have they?

 

The car got chipped, was working perfectly fine, then ptu started to fail and finally it died, had to get towed home by AA, got sent a replacement kindly by bigsss and i now have reason to believe this PTU is on its way out agian, it use to rev all the way to 7300RPM no trouble but now it really does stuggle, it sounds just like fuel cut in fact other day i was on boost in 3rd and next thing i know it just stopped felt like someone went into the back at me about 100MPH, it dam hurt! so im sure its PTU failure agiain :(, i have a S2 on the way from America thou :)

Refit the old PTU (after you've made sure it's dry) and see if there's any change (unless it's failed completely).

Ah right sounds a likely candidate then! Defo be PTU LOL

Refit the old PTU (after you've made sure it's dry) and see if there's any change (unless it's failed completely).

 

We no longer think of that ptu, the hammer took good care of it (joking)

 

The other PTU is completely dead, cant even start the car

 

Ah right sounds a likely candidate then! Defo be PTU LOL

 

Yep what i was thinking, S2 on the way :)

Have you made sure that all your electrical connections are clean, PTU, CAS, TPS, MAF and the connector on the Idle Control Valve. I had a similar problem on my blue car but it just cut out and would not restart until an hour later. This continued even after fitting a series 2 PTU, and I then decided to clean all the connections mentioned above 'properly'....and it ran like a watch.

Yep i'd go for the wiring check/clean

Thanks for your help guys, i think i will be doing that