brillo

Hi All Posted in Wrong section I fear, Many Apologies

Got to say, glad your socket caps all came undone ok, I thought the corrosion on mine was bad but judging by your photo's they were not so bad at all, it looks like you still had the original Nissan hose clips as did I but I think they make the corrosion problem worse, I have renewed all mine with the jubilee type clips as they have a broader contact area on the couplings. The familiar light brown fluid that is shown in your photo's appears to be standard issue, presumably the vast majority never change the coolant, looks like the original Radiator as well. I have come to terms with the fact that every job on a Z32 produces several other jobs the moment you start to tackle the first one, have you decided how much you are going to replace and what you are going to re-use yet. Best of Luck with it

Yes that's the Rad cap, I have thought about the water delete on the plenum also but it sort of got put on the back burner when the car died on the M25, you might find that its not the actual Bypass hoses that have failed it may be the corrosion on the stubby ally connectors bolted to the block, once they are off the car its surprising how corroded they get (presumably from people using Tap water not coolant). Once off you can clean them up and fill all the little indents in, when I re fitted mine I put the hose clamp as far back as I could while still leaving 5mm or so of the hose showing, its easier to refit the stumpy bits and then put the hose on, I tried a dry run of putting the hose on the stump first (much easier to fit hose clip) but when you go to fit the stump to the block its more difficult to get the bolts in and line them up, it also would have made keeping the stump straight with the sealant (Ebay Item No 262047122448) more difficult. I have only looked for the silicone Radiator hoses but the items I found were (Item No 152157272364 @ 49.99) or if you are not in a hurry (Item No 253603896033 @ 24.80) they are listed as fitting the TT, but from what I can glean they will fit the NA also. When you have the Rad, cowling and the Fan off have a look at your Belts, mine were all ok apart from the Power Steering one which was shot to hell, the correct belt appears to be a 3PK925 which I had a job finding without special order from Nissan, the TT uses a 4PK925 (which is readily available) because TT's have a 4 row pulley on the Power steering pump (For Front & Rear Steering) so as yours is NA make sure you get the 3 Rib if you need one.

The stubby couplers that I thought were steel turned out to be aluminium, so as the new parts were so expensive I used some chemical metal to fill the depressions caused by the corrosion to get a good seal, the radiator was not damaged so I just flushed it through, I did however find a source for a NA Radiator Gary Silvester at swradiators@rwairconditioning.com he is very helpful the only Radiator available is the one for the Auto with the cooler for the gearbox connections at the bottom of the radiator at a cost of £94.00 +vat, which can be used on the Manual car as well. If you are going to replace all the hoses then straight hoses will not be much use unless you manufacture the bends in steel or aluminium ready made hoses to OE pattern can be purchased in silicone from several places, but if your preference is OE then as far as I know your friendly Nissan Dealer would be the place to go, if you go for silicone hoses the you should use IAT type antifreeze as the later OAT type antifreeze rots the hoses, so if you go for the silicone bypass hoses make sure your antifreeze is IAT. There appears to be some controversy about the pressure of the Radiator Cap, Std on Early NA cars was 0.9 Bar but the later NA I am lead to believe had 1.2 Bar and now only thing listed by Nissan is the 1.2 Bar. I have replaced the very worn one on mine with a 1.1 Bar unit with a temp gauge in it so I could keep an eye on it while under the bonnet without constantly walking back to the cabin to look at the dash.

As suggested by Alic I purchased a length of 30mm silicone hose from AP Motor Store on Amazon, the actual Bypass Hoses are 75mm long I just cut off what I required with a very sharp bread Knife (did not make me very popular) funnily enough I have just finished putting it back together tonight. I don't know if its necessary, but I removed the Thermostat housing as well as the bottom Socket cap on the bypass hose casing had been butchered and I required the access, but I think you would need it out of the way to get to the hose clamps, initially I was told that the leak I had was a pinhole in the rad so was very small, but after 95 miles one of the bypass hoses failed and started spraying coolant everywhere. So if you can see the coolant dripping onto the cam cover I would change them just to be safe I will have to check tomorrow to make sure I am leak free, also check for trapped air Best of Luck if I can help (unlikely) do not hesitate to let me know

Morning Alic, the top hose ally casting has a groove in it, but the thermostat housing is smooth on its mounting surface and on the block where it mounts also the stubby tubes that mount on the block are also smooth on both the block and the tube mounting face, so do i put just a small bead of sealant on one surface ?

Ok guys, my hoses have arrived, showing how inept I am at this, can someone please clarify before I start : 1) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to one of the mounting surfaces for the two stubby tubes that mount on the block to take the bypass hoses 2) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to one mounting surface on the top hose connector where it mounts to the block (the one with the sensors in) 3) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to the recess that takes the thermostat 4) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to one mounting surface of the thermostat housing (bottom hose fitting) 5) Do I use the same RTV silicone sealant on the inside of the bypass hoses where they mount on the top hose aluminium casting & on the stumps coming off the block Please let me know how much of this I have got wrong Many Thanks again for everyone's help

Mine was a fairly long journey and having been told it was the Rad leaking, just made sure it was topped up when we stopped for fuel, when the gauge started climbing and we pulled off the road, coolant was pooling under the front of the car, have a look when its been running, through the fan towards the front of the engine I could see water coming from what appeared to be the water pump but on closer inspection the coolant was coming from above the water pump. When I eventually got the aluminium casting for my top (the one with the sending units in) only one of the Bypass hoses had a hole in it but it does not need to be very big once the coolant comes out of the hose it was spraying down the block, hitting the fan and sending it everywhere.

Hi all Thanks to AndrewG for tool recommendation, after a bit if a struggle its off, I have removed the Bypass hoses but the condition of the steel tubes bolted to the block are in very poor condition, so if anyone knows the part number or even better has a pair they would be willing to sell me I would be most grateful. These cars certainly have a Interesting design round the cooling system, it seems very prone to failure with those two bypass hoses and the mix of materials used, will be spending the afternoon trying to locate a replacement socket cap The two aluminium hose connectors appear to have been sealed with a liquid gasket and the Socket caps have been treated with threadlock, is this the recommended procedure for refitting these items ? Thanks again for everyone's help

Andrew, what size and manufacturer is the pictured removal tool please, and do you need to hammer the tool on to the socket cap before attempting removal also did you use brute force of a air hammer Many Thanks

OK guys, have ordered the hose for the bypass, removed rad, removed fan, and have managed to remove the thermostat housing, however one of the M6 socket caps (the one you cant see without a mirror) has been butchered by a previous owner/mechanic all the socket caps and nuts are removed except that one, seems almost impossible to get to Anyone had this problem & found a satisfactory solution, I am a bit stuck now

Yes could always measure when taking the old ones off but would be helpful to know as I am ordering straight 30mm silicone hose which comes in varying lengths & don't want to not quite have enough

Anyone know how long these bypass hoses are in MM

Thanks for the instructions Jeff, 1t almost looks like I stand a chance of doing that, would it be ok to use silicone hoses for this job & also any recommendations for the correct coolant to use, I also assume I would be ill advised not to change the thermostat at the same time and I will probably run the garden hose through the block while its apart. I will update on how I get on would be nice to get it running again as its in the way where it is. Thanks again will keep you posted Best Regards Marc

Hi Jeff Presumably I will need to remove the two cam covers, but will I be able to see the bypass hoses with covers removed or will I need to take the cast bits that the radiator hoses attach to off to be able to see ? i'm no mechanic but necessity means I will have a go Thanks again for all the advice everyone

Hi Jeff Presumably I will need to remove the two cam covers, but will I be able to see the bypass hoses with covers removed or will I need to take the cast bits that the radiator hoses attach to off to be able to see ? i'm no mechanic but necessity means I will have a go Thanks again for all the advice everyone

Thanks for the reply's, when you say leak Jeff, its not a dribble when you fill the rad engine off once the water level can be seen in the Rad the the water floods out what looks like from behind the cam belt covers over the bottom pulley and onto the floor no pressure in the system at all would you guess Water Pump ?

Thanks for the reply's, when you say leak Jeff, its not a dribble when you fill the rad engine off once the water level can be seen in the Rad the the water floods out what looks like from behind the cam belt covers over the bottom pulley and onto the floor no pressure in the system at all would you guess Water Pump ?

Interesting thought, is that scenario possible with out the engine running ? with engine off if you keep putting water in the rad then after about 2 litres is put in it starts flooding out, it looks as if its coming from the bottom pulley but I am guessing its coming from above that pulley and running past it, as I cant get any water to stay in the car I am reluctant to try and start it and cause more damage

Interesting thought, is that scenario possible with out the engine running ? with engine off if you keep putting water in the rad then after about 2 litres is put in it starts flooding out, it looks as if its coming from the bottom pulley but I am guessing its coming from above that pulley and running past it, as I cant get any water to stay in the car I am reluctant to try and start it and cause more damage

Thanks for the replies, just got in after a disastrous day, the garages diagnosis of a pinhole in the radiator (just make sure you keep it topped up until you get the rad for us to fit) has turned out to be what I assume is a water pump failure, I say this as I am no expert but the temp gauge started going over the halfway mark and when I pulled over and opened the bonnet there was coolant coming from the front of the engine under the cover for the cam belt and going all over the cast housing that the two Radiator hoses connect to this is probably not the best description but any ideas confirming or disagreeing with my diagnosis would be gratefully received. Huge learning curve on these cars it appears, wish I was a bit more familiar Thank you in advance for all remarks and advice Regards Marc

Thanks for the replies, just got in after a disastrous day, the garages diagnosis of a pinhole in the radiator (just make sure you keep it topped up until you get the rad for us to fit) has turned out to be what I assume is a water pump failure, I say this as I am no expert but the temp gauge started going over the halfway mark and when I pulled over and opened the bonnet there was coolant coming from the front of the engine under the cover for the cam belt and going all over the cast housing that the two Radiator hoses connect to this is probably not the best description but any ideas confirming or disagreeing with my diagnosis would be gratefully received. Huge learning curve on these cars it appears, wish I was a bit more familiar Thank you in advance for all remarks and advice Regards Marc

Hi Has anyone got a Radiator for a 1990 Z32 Manual NA that needs a new home ? Many Thanks Marc

Thanks for the reply, well that shoots that in the foot then, anyone got a Manual NA rad in good condition they want a new home for ?

Thanks for the reply, well that shoots that in the foot then, anyone got a Manual NA rad in good condition they want a new home for ?