brillo

Many Thanks @Gaz300

Can somebody tell me how to renew my subscription, I tried the subscription page but whatever I clicked on nothing happened, on the subscription page it says Your subscription has been cancelled, please contact us to reactivate. I have no idea who to contact and I can not PM anyone to ask as I am now not a Premium member, surely someone can advise me Any help gratefully received Thanks in advance

Hi @Gaz300 I tried that and it says "your subscription has been cancelled please contact us to reactivate", presumably I am just being obtuse but contact who exactly

That would be the reason for that then, who do I contact to rectify that ?

Hi @Peage for some reason i don't seem to be able to message you, would you be able to message me and I will try and reply Best Regaeds

The replacements you have made look very good, I have two SWB cars both with end caps missing so would be interested if these become available Best Regards

I obviously have read the reports incorrectly, my understanding was that the Standard E5 would be the only other Petrol available when the E10 takes over in September and the Ordinary Unleaded would be called Super Unleaded, so its the Ordinary E5 which is being discontinued so that is a relief, that being said what do we do in 2026 when there is no Ordinary E5 and no (98Ron+) in E5 form

Hi All Here's Hoping that I am as always Just late to the Party but I have just heard about the new E10 Unleaded Fuel, that will be replacing the standard Unleaded Fuel from September 2021, I have read what I can find on the subject which as I understand it will go as follows. September 2021 : The New E10 Unleaded Fuel will replace what is now known as Standard Unleaded Fuel (E5) and that Fuel will be re-named as Super Unleaded and what I know as Super Unleaded (Momentum, Shell V Power) will be discontinued, and the New Super Unleaded (E5) will be discontinued in 2026, leaving the only Unleaded Petrol available in the UK the E10 The New E10 is they tell us not suitable for Vehicles manufactured before 2011 which I am presuming will include my 1990 300zx Everybody may well be aware of this and plans may be afoot for some sort of additive that could be used to prevent the damage that E10 will do to our cars as it is more susceptible to retaining water than E5 I find this a bit of a worry as my cars are run on Momentum and are not keen on running the current Standard Unleaded E5 let alone this New E10 If someone could tell me I have misunderstood and that I am talking rubbish Please Please do so as I am finding this all hard to believe. Regards Marc

Thanks for the installation guide Andrew, my Japanese is worse that useless, but you can get the general idea It appears there are only four connections, there are 3 connections for the parking pole (all nissan scotchlocks) all but one of which are broken, so I have removed them all and re established the pre fitment loom and vouloir passenger door locks when the drivers door is locked. All the Nissan aftermarket items are now all disconnected, I am now ploughing through the wiring on the Autowatch 160 RLi-T fitted by another "Expert" who thinks that PVC electrical tape is a good long term insulator. Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone

Just noticed this post, I have just had the same problem (amongst loads of others) 1 I was fortunate that it sheared with a stump above the panel, that one after several applications of penetrating oil and a slot cut into the stump with a Dremel, I managed to screw it through the captive nut into the box section, the other 3 that sheared all required drilling out starting with a 1.5mm drill then going up in small increments finally to a 5mm at which point with a thin centre punch you can knock the remainder of the bolt towards the hole you have drilled revealing the original thread. Took forever laying on my back drilling upwards, best with a titanium bit, a slow speed on your drill and WD40 little and often, I had the same problem with the 2 bolts holding the bottom edge of the front wings on but with those at least you can lay on your side You have my sympathy and wishes of good luck with it Best regards Marc

Hi Andrew Thanks for the info, presumably fitted in Japan before export, I don't really know which way to go from here, presumably the quickest way to a solution is to take this Control box out and follow the loom from it to wherever the wires have been connected, disconnect them and remake all connections to the vehicles loom where it has been spliced into. Without the wiring diagram I don't think I will be able to trace the fault at least with the cars loom back to factory (as best I can get it) I might stand a chance. Thanks again for the input Best regards Marc

Hi All Well having partially recovered from the back pain inflicted in the drivers footwell, problem is not solved, on further investigation hidden in the drivers door is a control box Labeled "CONT ASSY LOCK DOOR" I have attached a photo, has anyone a wiring diagram for this item ? there are also other items hidden in the door cavity that are wired to this control box One of which pictured above, there is also a red LED in a case attached by cable to this box, the box is obscured by the window control pictured below I am assuming that this is a Nissan retrofit item as I can not believe that Nissan would have been party to fitting anything with scotchlocks but there are a significant number of wires coming from the "cont assy lock door" module (a nightmare without wiring diagram) If anyone has any experience of this door lock control unit H0561-35F00 please let me know Thanks in advance Best Regards Marc

Thanks to George for the second post, did not see that when posting last reply Best Regards Marc

Good Afternoon Andrew Thank you for the wire colour coding very helpful, however my car does not subscribe to the colour coding on the circuit diagram, I have assumed that on my car the White/Red is my Red, the Blue/Green is my Green, the Blue is Blue and the Black is Black, and with my trusty test meter have established that there was no supply to the Red wire and subsequently no output on the Green or the blue. I have traced the colours back through the door to the main loom in the footwell and the White/Red (constant 12v) has been fitted with a scotchlock to obtain power for a F2029-89911 control box that is mounted on the cover under the steering wheel, and where they had cable tied the loom up under the dash the pressure had over time broken the White/Red wire (scotchlocks I hate them). I have tested that the passenger door lock works with the broken wires held together, so now all that is required is to remake the connection this time it will be a solder joint which will subsequently be shrink wrapped, I have not checked the connections that George suggested as at this stage it is not necessary, but the photo's I have no doubt will be very useful in the future when lock failure becomes a issue so thank you for that. The supply to the F2029-89911 is not really required as I understand, having googled it the unit would have controlled a parking mast which is unfortunately no longer fitted which is a real shame. My thanks to all advice I am now off to fold myself in half to get into the footwell and solder the broken wires back together. Incidentally in the unlikely event that anyone has a parking mast that they do not require please get in touch. Many Thanks Marc

Good Morning Andrew Thank you for posting the circuit diagram, I have never been very good at reading these things (just thick i guess) I can follow the path and assume that I would be looking at the Australian part of it, which answers my question that it appears to have a permanent live but it still does not give me the colour of the wires going to the Drivers side door lock switch is there some sort of code ?

Hi, I know this subject has been covered numerous times but from everything I have found via the search has not solved my problem, car is a 92 NA and has a aftermarket actuator in the drivers door, when I operate the remote the drivers door locks but the passenger door does not. From what I have read there is a actuator on the drivers door lock that operates the passenger door lock when the key is turned either to lock or unlock, the aftermarket actuator performs the same action as the key and locks and unlocks the Drivers door fine. I have the bottom of the drivers side dash off, the kick panel off and the door card removed, If I have understood previous posts correctly there is a plug and socket just by the bracket that hold the window controls that runs to the bottom of the door lock assembly, there are four wires in this connector one Green one Red one Blue and one Black. Can anyone tell me what these four wires do and should there be a constant 12v to any of them ? I really can't get the hang of the principal of the system, I am assuming that there should be a 12v permanent live to the bottom of the Door Lock and it somehow sends a pulse when the key is turned to either lock or unlock I have put a meter on mine and can not detect any 12v supply Hope this makes sense

Slap administered, feel a little better now must get back to trying to acquire all those broken and missing bits for the SWB cars, just moved the Vert to get it in a more sheltered position so the plastic does not dislodge and to add insult to injury the viscous fan assy appears to have given up as there is a lot of wooshing when increasing the revs and it can no longer be moved by hand with the engine stopped, It never ends does it !

Yes I am beginning to wonder about my decision to go for SWB rather than the 2+2 unfortunately i fear i'm to far down the road to change my mind now

Thank you for all the replies fortunately glass only hit me in the chest not in the face, was a hell of a bang though and i did not realise what had happened for a second there seemed to be a delay between the noise and the glass going everywhere but i may be wrong, heavy traffic so easier to just keep going until a suitable place to pull over.

Hi All This morning on my way to my MOT test in the Vert a piece of debris from a on coming traffic flew up and shattered the drivers side door glass has any body got a O/S Door glass for a SWB Z32 from what I can glean from the internet any short wheel base door glass should fit (please correct me if I am wrong) ideal would be a Blue tint but I am pretty sure i wont be able to be fussy I would really appreciate any help Best Regards Marc

Hi Gonzo Thank you for the reply, I have all the parts, stud that goes through the window, the plastic washers, the round threaded plate, the the bar with the white plastic ball joint bit on the end and the cap, what i found most difficult was tightening the bar onto the exposed thread sticking out from the inside of the glass, I ended up drilling a small hole in the door carcass just big enough to get a phillips screwdriver through to tighten the bar with the plastic ball joint, just could not get enough purchase with a pair of long nose pliers to tighten it sufficiently. Thank you for the advice, not a job I would volunteer for but now back together thankfully, I am sure there is a easier way to do it, but only how to's I could find seemed to have had the photo's removed. Thanks again

Hi Sorry to bother you but I see you have successfully replaced the window slider, if it was the upper one (on the door upright) mine is broken, I have the replacement parts shown in your photo and have managed to remove the plastic trim that shows when the window is down and have removed the broken parts from the channel in the door upright, I have searched for a "How to" to reassemble but can not find one and I can not for the life of me see how you can get all the pieces back together with everything in its correct place Any clues much appreciated As a aside the link to your Garage does not appear to be working Best Regards

Did you get any further with sourcing a 255mm one, just failed the mot on tie rod and mine are 255mm overall length also its 1990 Best regards Marc

The supplier was Soft Tops Ltd in Croydon, they make all their own roofs and give the options on Colour of Mohair and colour of windows if they are made of Plastic. When shown the samples I went for the Blue Mohair for the material and a Green tint on the Plastic windows to match the Glass in the car, might sound strange to choose green tint plastic but you don't notice it when looking through it and it blends in better that the totally clear plastic windows, they use "Ultralite" plastic which is as far as I know the same as the original. He did mention when I went back to collect it that it was a complicated fitment and that he would not look forward to doing another one, reinforcing the advice of all on here to let the professionals do the job especially Art who has fitted a MX5 Hood which took some time. Not a inexpensive purchase as it cost more that the suppliers who bought the hoods in but hopefully not something I will have to do again, can't wait to get the bits from the US and at least get the Hood part of the repairs finished.

Just a small Update After many enquiries it seemed that the Ebay Roof was a bought in item and I anticipated a problem if the fit was poor, it appears to be the case with all the company's I initially contacted, they all seemed to buy the hood in and then fit or in the case of one supplier who does all the common hoods and fits them, that they would supply me the hood but could not fit it themselves but would give me the telephone number of a gentleman that could. None of this inspired confidence as I was hoping to find someone who would manufacture the hood and fit it, doing away with the possibility of the excuse of "well we only fitted it mate" should the fit be poor and presumably with a bought in product warranty on the actual hood its self would be sketchy at best. I eventually found a supplier that would manufacture and fit a new hood on the Vert and have had it fitted, however being unfamiliar with the convertible I was unaware that the two "Latch Catchers" one on each A post were badly damaged and as the supplier explained the hood would not fasten to the windscreen surround securely, it was not evident with the old hood as it was so stretched and the stitching was beginning to give way.[ATTACH=CONFIG]116647[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116648[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116649[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116650[/ATTACH] Above Photo's of the old roof So a very slow drive home to prevent any damage to the roof mechanism The Latch Catcher is no longer available from Nissan even direct from Japan, So I have ordered 2 from Concept Z who supply a remanufactured part similar to the original so once that arrives hopefully it will all fit nicely.