brillo

Many Thanks @Gaz300

Can somebody tell me how to renew my subscription, I tried the subscription page but whatever I clicked on nothing happened, on the subscription page it says Your subscription has been cancelled, please contact us to reactivate. I have no idea who to contact and I can not PM anyone to ask as I am now not a Premium member, surely someone can advise me Any help gratefully received Thanks in advance

Hi @Gaz300 I tried that and it says "your subscription has been cancelled please contact us to reactivate", presumably I am just being obtuse but contact who exactly

That would be the reason for that then, who do I contact to rectify that ?

Hi @Peage for some reason i don't seem to be able to message you, would you be able to message me and I will try and reply Best Regaeds

The replacements you have made look very good, I have two SWB cars both with end caps missing so would be interested if these become available Best Regards

I obviously have read the reports incorrectly, my understanding was that the Standard E5 would be the only other Petrol available when the E10 takes over in September and the Ordinary Unleaded would be called Super Unleaded, so its the Ordinary E5 which is being discontinued so that is a relief, that being said what do we do in 2026 when there is no Ordinary E5 and no (98Ron+) in E5 form

Hi All Here's Hoping that I am as always Just late to the Party but I have just heard about the new E10 Unleaded Fuel, that will be replacing the standard Unleaded Fuel from September 2021, I have read what I can find on the subject which as I understand it will go as follows. September 2021 : The New E10 Unleaded Fuel will replace what is now known as Standard Unleaded Fuel (E5) and that Fuel will be re-named as Super Unleaded and what I know as Super Unleaded (Momentum, Shell V Power) will be discontinued, and the New Super Unleaded (E5) will be discontinued in 2026, leaving the only Unleaded Petrol available in the UK the E10 The New E10 is they tell us not suitable for Vehicles manufactured before 2011 which I am presuming will include my 1990 300zx Everybody may well be aware of this and plans may be afoot for some sort of additive that could be used to prevent the damage that E10 will do to our cars as it is more susceptible to retaining water than E5 I find this a bit of a worry as my cars are run on Momentum and are not keen on running the current Standard Unleaded E5 let alone this New E10 If someone could tell me I have misunderstood and that I am talking rubbish Please Please do so as I am finding this all hard to believe. Regards Marc

Thanks for the installation guide Andrew, my Japanese is worse that useless, but you can get the general idea It appears there are only four connections, there are 3 connections for the parking pole (all nissan scotchlocks) all but one of which are broken, so I have removed them all and re established the pre fitment loom and vouloir passenger door locks when the drivers door is locked. All the Nissan aftermarket items are now all disconnected, I am now ploughing through the wiring on the Autowatch 160 RLi-T fitted by another "Expert" who thinks that PVC electrical tape is a good long term insulator. Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone

Just noticed this post, I have just had the same problem (amongst loads of others) 1 I was fortunate that it sheared with a stump above the panel, that one after several applications of penetrating oil and a slot cut into the stump with a Dremel, I managed to screw it through the captive nut into the box section, the other 3 that sheared all required drilling out starting with a 1.5mm drill then going up in small increments finally to a 5mm at which point with a thin centre punch you can knock the remainder of the bolt towards the hole you have drilled revealing the original thread. Took forever laying on my back drilling upwards, best with a titanium bit, a slow speed on your drill and WD40 little and often, I had the same problem with the 2 bolts holding the bottom edge of the front wings on but with those at least you can lay on your side You have my sympathy and wishes of good luck with it Best regards Marc

Hi Andrew Thanks for the info, presumably fitted in Japan before export, I don't really know which way to go from here, presumably the quickest way to a solution is to take this Control box out and follow the loom from it to wherever the wires have been connected, disconnect them and remake all connections to the vehicles loom where it has been spliced into. Without the wiring diagram I don't think I will be able to trace the fault at least with the cars loom back to factory (as best I can get it) I might stand a chance. Thanks again for the input Best regards Marc

Hi All Well having partially recovered from the back pain inflicted in the drivers footwell, problem is not solved, on further investigation hidden in the drivers door is a control box Labeled "CONT ASSY LOCK DOOR" I have attached a photo, has anyone a wiring diagram for this item ? there are also other items hidden in the door cavity that are wired to this control box One of which pictured above, there is also a red LED in a case attached by cable to this box, the box is obscured by the window control pictured below I am assuming that this is a Nissan retrofit item as I can not believe that Nissan would have been party to fitting anything with scotchlocks but there are a significant number of wires coming from the "cont assy lock door" module (a nightmare without wiring diagram) If anyone has any experience of this door lock control unit H0561-35F00 please let me know Thanks in advance Best Regards Marc

Thanks to George for the second post, did not see that when posting last reply Best Regards Marc

Good Afternoon Andrew Thank you for the wire colour coding very helpful, however my car does not subscribe to the colour coding on the circuit diagram, I have assumed that on my car the White/Red is my Red, the Blue/Green is my Green, the Blue is Blue and the Black is Black, and with my trusty test meter have established that there was no supply to the Red wire and subsequently no output on the Green or the blue. I have traced the colours back through the door to the main loom in the footwell and the White/Red (constant 12v) has been fitted with a scotchlock to obtain power for a F2029-89911 control box that is mounted on the cover under the steering wheel, and where they had cable tied the loom up under the dash the pressure had over time broken the White/Red wire (scotchlocks I hate them). I have tested that the passenger door lock works with the broken wires held together, so now all that is required is to remake the connection this time it will be a solder joint which will subsequently be shrink wrapped, I have not checked the connections that George suggested as at this stage it is not necessary, but the photo's I have no doubt will be very useful in the future when lock failure becomes a issue so thank you for that. The supply to the F2029-89911 is not really required as I understand, having googled it the unit would have controlled a parking mast which is unfortunately no longer fitted which is a real shame. My thanks to all advice I am now off to fold myself in half to get into the footwell and solder the broken wires back together. Incidentally in the unlikely event that anyone has a parking mast that they do not require please get in touch. Many Thanks Marc

Good Morning Andrew Thank you for posting the circuit diagram, I have never been very good at reading these things (just thick i guess) I can follow the path and assume that I would be looking at the Australian part of it, which answers my question that it appears to have a permanent live but it still does not give me the colour of the wires going to the Drivers side door lock switch is there some sort of code ?