stupot_1982

I bought these from CZP; https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-silicone-turbo-recirculation-valve-hose-set-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-tt-z32-14463-rvh-s_p_8990.php But unfortunately, the 35mm(outlet) pipes were fouling the filters so ordered two 90degree 35mm silicon pipes from ASH (ebay). Had to shorten all four hoses too, but work a treat in the end.

Replaced the IACV- still lean on one bank. Noticed I'd plumbed the boost solenoid wrong so could have been getting extra air. Had the plenum back off (developed a fuel leak - o ring) and noticed a break in the gasket, so swapped it. Took delivery of these so got them fitted today Realised I've missed the washers on the lower bolts...doh Dropped in the AEM filters too and checked the nose panel fits. Front lower control arms next and tension rods. Should be with me in a week. I'll be busy with steering pipe plumbing and belt in the meantime-- and more idle control.

At the moment I'm spending time where I can adjusting ECU settings-mainly cold idle. Had the air line connected up to test for boost leaks as one Bank was slightly leaner. Turns out my IACV is split so ordered another.

One rebuilt - forged engine going in! Oil cooler and fuel lines plumbed in Intercoolers and associated pipework installed Spot the timing light ? This was around Sept last year, trying to get her to fire up. What an ordeal. Had to go through 720deg of timing almost, as I couldn't find the correct offset to match the ECU. 300 attempts at firing and adjusting offset and she roared up!

Random goodies pic. The wastegates were ditched for Forge Actuators with Blue Springs in the end Tomei 89mm Pistons Tomei rods

So I took a trip to Coventry to pick up a replacement block which had been re-bored to +40 tho. Picked up a shed load of goodies too such as Tomei forged stuff, manual bits and pieces.Had the replacement block checked, honed and dipped so I could start work on building it up. Old block tore down (now shelved). Coolant passage on replacement block bored out Replacement block cleaned up and painted with High temp. Installed new freeze plugs Bead-blasted heads having Tomei Springs installed Big jump to having timing belt installed Big jump again to painted timing covers and rocker covers going on Fuel rail and some other bits Engine drop-in to follow

I cut out sections of the inner arches, and welded in plates. This was to smooth out those mounts and bumps left behind from the Hicas and FuseBox. It had to happen, as it was a bit rotten towards the headlights. See below filling to smooth over. Keyed in, primed and painted the bay once I was happy with the above. Chose a Honda Metallic Gunmetal. Looks a bit yellow'y/bronze but the sun was beating down in the evening Pic below minus Sun That's probably before clear-coating, but can't remember. Pic's of engine build to follow

I'll bring the thread up to speed eventually. I'll start by pasting in some pic-heavy content, carrying on with the body resto and get on to the good stuff later. The welding seemed to go on forever. Typically, always finding something that needs welding! I finished off the welding progress with the N/S floor, inner and outer sills. Before's (nasty) Rotten oversills. You would have known they were there unless you went over with magnets - soo much filler. I did redo some of it as the weld didn't seem to penetrate very well. Unfortunately, I've nothing else of the welding, but some of the clean shots underneath after protection applied New brake lines Rear Subframe gone in, which was sand blasted, primed, painted and clearcoated in BMW Aquamarine Blue. Solid bushes installed and poly diff bushes. Diff (fresh oil) and petrol tank installed after a wire wheelin' and Hammerite Axles, propshaft, fuel lines, manual gearbox etc are in now. I'm a bit behind with pics for those but I will do some. Fuel lines are 8AN Braided Nylon now too. Front end content coming up.

Life, money and the rain ? I restored a Mini prior to starting this, which was a piece of piss in comparison; Possibly bitten off more than I can chew here...I aimed to get it running last year, which I did. Hoping to have it moving this year.

Work carried out and inventory so far. Engine Block Coolant passages bored Tomei Pistons 89mm Tomei Rods ARP Rod Bolts ARP Main Studs ARP Head Bolts ACL Bearings Heads Gasket matched and lightly ported Dipped and Skimmed JWT 500+ Wild Cams Tomei 1.5mm Head Gaskets Tomei Springs Iridium IX Plugs Turbo/Boost Garrett GT2860R's SZ 2.5 Turbo Inlet pipes Forge Wastegate Actuators -Blue Spring 14-18PSI GFB Recirc Valves 6AN Turbo Coolant Lines CZP Stainless Oil Lines SZ Intercooler Piping 2.5" Fuel AUS 1000cc Injectors Forge Fuel Pressure Regulator GFB Fuel Filter Walbro 485 Fuel Pump 8AN Fuel Lines to Parallel 6AN at Rail Z32 Innovations 300Degree Fuel Rails Engine AMS Engine Mounts GFB Crank Pulley Gates Blue Kevlar Timing Belt Unorthadox Pulley Set ZSpec Timing Cover Bolts Drivetrain OS Giken TS2CD Clutch + Flywheel Top Speed Short Shifter BDE Trans Mount Kit SPZ Shift Mount Kit CZP Stainless Clutch Line Electrical Link G4x N300+ ECU Haltech Dual Channel Wideband Controller Odyssey Extreme 950 Battery Wiring Specialties Main Loom Link Boost Solenoid IAT Sensor, OP Sensor, Oil Temp Sensor, FP Sensor Exhaust AMS 3" V2 Manifolds AMS 3" 5-Bolt Downpipes Top Speed Pro CatBack Exhaust Cooling AEM Air Filters Mishimoto Radiator Spal 16" Pull Fan CZP Heater Pipes CZP Setrab 19 Row Oil Cooler SZ Side Mount Intercoolers Suspension/Steering Solid Steering Bush Gtech Track Rod Ends Driftworks FUCA's Deletes; HICAS FICD AIV Air Regulator MAF Plenum Coolant lines PVR EGR PTU AirCon Fuel Pump Control Unit Battery Relocation to Boot

I can't really remember why I started with this dodgy title... Anyway, I'm going to be throwing some more content at this thread soon. A lot has changed since Feb 17!

Big brake kit View Advert Anyone selling a big brake kit before I commit to having new shipped? Prefer front and back but will consider just fronts. Thanks Advertiser stupot_1982 Date 10/10/21 Price Category Parts - Wanted  

Mods please close, I got my answer

Quick query.. Should my (stock) throttle bodies be sucking in air at idle? TPS says closed and Idle position. I've done a TB calibration as per https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body 1990 Manual TT Thanks

Haltech upgraded the firmware for me. I now have Lambda stats via the WB controller. Thanks Chaps!

Thanks Nick. Could you email me please> Stuart.Hickinson@gmail.com. I've emailed Haltech, they are currently running a serial number check. Many thanks

Hi chaps, Does anyone own a Haltech ECU ? I've bought a Dual Channel Haltech Wideband Controller (WB2) to connect via CAN to my Link ECU. The difficulty is the Haltech WB2 requires the firmware updating to support this. I did not know this and was informed it was compatible! Would anyone be willing to receive my Haltech WB2 to upgrade the firmware on it via a Haltech ECU? I'm just shy of sending it back, as I don't know anyone with a Haltech ECU. Anyone willing to help out would be much appreciated, or recommend any options! Many thanks, Stuart

thanks for you help. On closer inspection it looks like the red ones have changed colour as they have a very slight blue tinge still. Must be from previous conditions or reaction.

I bought 2 recon 40p heads which have Tomei valve springs fitted. I dismantled because I'm getting work done on them, but noticed some of the springs are tipped a different colour. I have 21 that are tipped blue, 2 are tipped red and 1 is red and blue! They look identical in dimension and pitch, but should I be sceptical? I am unable to get knowledge from previous owner...Please advise, thanks.

As above, brake line clamps to fix lines to chassis.. I am currently rebuilding the brake hard lines, had to throw most of them out from being rotten/snapped. Many thanks

It's for fixing into a Z. I meant for transporting only. Sorry for the confusion!

Can anyone tell me the length, width and height for the manual gearbox? Trying to work out if I can fit one in my car! Tried searching for this but not much coming up. Thanks!

As above.. the part number is 2604230p00 Or in jap speak 26040+B. It's the metal trim piece that screws down, keeping the rubber seal in place. Thanks

As described, hoping someone has one spare they would like to sell, before I get one from Z Centre or other. Thanks

I've found the answer, thanks anyway...Please close thread