Spectre

Change of job circumstances and having two rather uneconomical cars forces sale of my much loved 300. Quick spec list Electric/heated black leather interior Sigma cat 1 alarm/immobiliser Fully polybushed Tokico shocks and eibach springs 18" ultralite A-tech fronts 18" XXR rears 99 spec rear lights 99 spec spoiler 99 spec front bumper HID headlights Japspeed divorced downpipes Japspeed backboxes and decat pipes Water, oil and boost gauges in centre console below radio Alpine radio Polished intake pipes RPS max clutch Fidanza flywheel Apexi induction Momo steering wheel Nismo carbon fibre gear knob JD chip 14 psi boost jets Turbo XS dump valves Lightened crank pulley Large koyo radiator Huge FMIC Blitz turbo timer 318mm skyline front discs HICAS lockout bar a/c and cruise control delete 25mm spacers Grounding kit Recent sill replacement Recent injector replacement all running within spec now Calipers refurbed 2010 Replacement engine from zedworld 05/12 costing £2000 Braided clutch hose (bypass engine bay bleed pipe) Replacement fuel pump Recent spark plug replacement Bad points Paintwork isn't brilliant in places, spoiler and tailgate have some blistering and front bumper has some chips which have been touched up. Overall general wear and tear for a 21 year old car, still polishes up nicely! Intermittent smoking, every now and then under load it does smoke which has been narrowed down to the turbo seals. However I have a recon pair of turbos and manifolds I bought off a member which will come with the car! Usual cracks in the leather CRAP aftermarket speakers, never listen to the radio anyway with two turbos singing away Door key and ignition key are seperate but both original titanium keys Front arb knocks Harsh ride, all the suspension components are polybushed All the good stuff I've just had it MOTd so it will come with a years ticket, this was done at a Halfords autocentre not some dodgy place After I bought the car I wanted to make sure I didn't have a dud so I took it to Eurospec in Guilford for a full health check, which pretty much came back as 'You've got a good one there mate' again I have all of the paperwork to prove this. She pulled 315hp on the dyno at eurospec this was when she was badly overfuelling due to two out of spec injectors which have no been replaced, I also have a previous dyno of 360hp which I believe she's running around now as she does pull very hard in every gear! As with all my cars she's had all the fluids changed recently too I've cut out alot of rust which was apparently 'sorted' when I bought her, this includes whole new drivers sill and various patch welds. All properly cut out, treated and sorted! Chassis jacking points were cut out and replaced wither thicker box section. Replacement engine from zedworld 05/12 costing £2000 Spare pair of reconditioned turbos with standard manifolds I bought off of a member a few months ago HUGE file of receipts and paperwork ODO reads 113k Any questions call/text James 07429901644 Car located in Horsham, West Sussex Price is 3000 ONO, may part exchange/swap depends what you have. New pictures showing interior and bodywork Photo folder here: http://imgur.com/a/R1HdD

Done compression test which was fine, its only a low milage engine. I'll have a play with the tps and iacv at the weekend, I checked the ECU too looks brand new no corrosion or burnt contacts etc

Just replaced my below ohm spec injectors today and it's still misfiring and idling horribly. Replaced the sparks, cleaned tps, maf and injector plugs, checked for vacuum leaks etc all seems fine. Running a power balance test almost stalls the car it only just hangs on in there, the only thing I can spot that's maybe not right is the lhs o2 sensor voltage, it's higher than the right. Any ideas?

Will look tomorrow in sunlight :blush:

Put a s/h replacement fuel pump in my UK TT z32 the other day as mine was whining, car runs alot better now but I have a fuel gauge problem. I had 1/4 of a tank when I replaced the pump, when I put the new pump in and reconnected the battery and started her up she went up to 3/4 full. Now as I've been driving it its been going up... I'm now showing over a full tank. I put 25 litres in and it hasn't moved. Any ideas? is a jdm fuel pump sender unit different to a uk one?

I'm after x2 upper and lower injector O rings for the old style TT pintle injectors and anything else needed for replacing injectors. James

I hope it's not valve stem oil seals they look like a complete pain in the arse and this is a low milage engine from zedworld a few years back. Will try and source some injectors though, thanks.

Recently replaced pcv valves with genuine OEM parts and changed spark plugs the other day which I noticed were quite oily. The car still smokes, but not under boost or at idle all the time just very randomly like if I go for a drive them stop at some traffic lights I'll get a smelly plume of oily smoke bellow out for a second then stop. I'm thinking of changing the valve cover gasket and the one below which is just sealant I believe? If so would blue hylomar be a good choice? At the same time I'm doing some water deletes and a fuel pump change, thinking I may aswell do the injectors too. Would brand new OEM injectors be worth buying or any alternatives?

As above I'm after a working TT fuel pump as mine has started to get rather loud.

Just wanted to thank everyone that's helped me get my zed back on the road, took her to eurospec in Slyfield today to have a chat and book her in for a health check. Feels great to drive it again!

Hahahahahahaha solved it! No earth trigger going to r/h relay, taken it from the dimmer and it all works now!!

Checked that fuse its fine All other bulbs are fine its just the dipped and full beams, as the full beams are getting half the voltage each whilst on dipped beam should tell me something but I can't think what. I'm working off this diagram

Ah just found a relay drivers side wheel arch, quite corroded. Nope, cleaned it up and it works nothing changed

Can't seem to see a relay behind the passenger side wheel arch. Seems to me that the high beams are somehow at the moment connected in series sharing 6v each whilst on dipped beam. When high beam is enabled the passenger full beam gets the full 12v. The diagram shows 4 fuses relating to the lighting system, I can find 3, 2 in next to the relays and one drivers side footwear. The h/lamp dim relay is exactly the same type of single pole relay as the h/lamp rh relay but the h/lamp lh relay is of a double pole type, is this right?

I'm just going to dump my continuity findings here as I go along. Testing between the light connectors and the relay board. Drivers side Green/blue driver dipped to LH relay Continuity Red/green driver dipped to LH relay Continuity Red/green to red/black Continuity Red/green to black/silver dot Continuity Red/green to white/black Continuity Red/green to solid black Continuity Red/green to purple Continuity Green/blue only has continuity between green/blue Red/green is earth? Passenger side Red/black has continuity with the following Solid black Purple White/black Red/black Red/green Red/black is earth? Solid red passenger side only has continuity with solid red Passenger full beam connector continuity test between the two connector pins. Red/black + white/black NO CONTINUITY Drivers side full beam connector plug pins Red/green + white/black HAS CONTINUITY Rh relay pins 1+2 there is no 12v problem could lie here...

Is my fuse box different to the one in Jeffs thread?

God this is infuriating... Found some corrosion on the connectors passenger side, snapped a pink wire trying to get the connector back in after cleaning them. I think I'm going to give it a rest tonight before I get angry and break something else, shall try again tomorrow...

As far as I can tell all the relays are working, is this green relay with the others or elsewhere? From what I can work out the drivers side dipped isn't getting a constant 12v if I plug a normal headlight in and not a xenon it will light up very dimly only drawing 5.5v But the full beams will not turn off?

Hard to explain as it's so bloody confusing I saw Jeffs topic on it and have been trying lots of combinations all without success. UK spec zed don't know if that makes a difference. Can't see a 10a fuse relating to lights in the footwell

I don't think this car wants me to put it back on the road, keeps throwing loads of little spanners in the works to stop me. Right basically headlights are playing up. Sidelights are fine Dipped on at stalk = passenger dipped on and both full beams on but dull, no driver dipped. Flash full beam at stalk= passenger full beam on brighter , driver full beam off and no dipped passenger All the following was done with dipped beam enabled on stalk... Take out rh relay, all full beams off with passenger dipped on but no driver dipped. Take out lh relay no lights. Take out dimmer relay, only full beams come on.

:thumbup1:

Got some on order :)

Found a company that does them next day in this country phew... Now for the studs :pinch:

*******s :thumbdown: Wanted this on the road next week, hopefully jap performance parts near me have some similar ones on the shelf, my locking nuts fit them but none of the others. Should probably get some extended studs too...

Ok I bought some XXR 522 alloys for the zed, 18" 114.3 et28 9.5j all good right? Well my nuts don't fit... My originals were too small and I couldn't get a socket on the nut so I bought some D1 tuner nuts,they don't even fit in the wheel nut recess as they're too wide. What can I do to make these fit or can I not?