Krazeedude

I can't think of anything better than the prices going up. We will continue to improve our Zs anyway, the difference is when we come to sell it, you can look at maybe even making money (depending on the length of ownership). I'd have expected everyone to up the prices a bit. If the cheapest Z is £3k, clean ones going around £8k, that's what the public will have to pay. Not that I would condone a group actively affecting the market for personal gains :S

Thanks for the offer, but I'd be loyal to the quoter. I'm glad the price is about right. I'm reasonably competent but I'd rather not tackle a job life this yet! Are there any little things I should do while there?

It smokes at tick over, it smokes under hard acceleration and it's an absolute pothead on overrun! Blue smoke always

Hey guys, I new to the Z game, so I thought I'd check a quote I got. My car is producing a LOT of blue smoke. I have been told to try replacing the PCV valves. Failing that, it's Turbo reconditioning time. I also require a new clutch. I believe I was quoted £250 for the clutch, £600 to have both turbos reconditioned and £400 to fit the clutch and turbos. Seem fair? For £600, is it worth buying a pair of turbos and selling on my old ones as needing a recon? Thanks, Alex

...and you had a friend! I need to join in haha!

Sorry bro, but you're on splitterscuffers: https://www.facebook.com/groups/709562912393640/880419638641299/?notif_t=group_comment_reply - - - Updated - - - 51 Comments so far!

I definitely didn't just apply :ph34r:

My front bumper isn't standard and would provide more airflow to the FMIC than the side ones. What new IC kits would you guys recommend? Money is a factor.

My front bumper isn't standard and would provide more airflow to the FMIC than the side ones. What new IC kits would you guys recommend? Money is a factor.

I did a dyno day on Saturday, my first run was 30whp higher than the following two, which implies it's getting way too hot

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190965618621

I'm in!

Cutting it close as hell, but I'll be buying a ticket (and stand pass) on payday, the 28th! Hopefully that's within the deadline? As stated, that'll cover me and a passenger or two?

Hey, most of you have probably already seen this, but it makes me even more proud to own one!

Thanks, a switch to bridge the two wires seems easy enough :)

I'm 20 and mine has been quoted as 999.58 for the year with admiral, and that's without multicar!

That is absolute genius! Any chance of a quick guide as to which wires the switch connects to? :)

Cool. The diff will be welded asap and eventually I'll buy a HICAS delete bar if I don't get along with it :) Thanks guys :)

I know that the diff and hicas system is separate, but they are connected to the same wheels. A welder will put a lot of strain on the hicas which I was told can be fragile. It's probably not an issue, but I thought I'd ask just in case. A z32 that's been built to drift will almost definitely have a hicas delete.

I should explain BACK on the road: I have taken it off the road to prep it while my MX5 is waiting to be sold.

Hey guys, I've run my MX5 with a welded diff for over a year now. I love it, it makes the car so much better handling in every area and situation in my opinion. Now it comes to the 300... I've had it sideways a couple of times now, initiation is good, keeping it is less easy than I'd like, and exit is f**king diabolical. Mine is the manual LWB TT, so it has the 3.7 VLSD as standard. When leaving a drift it acts like an open diff, which is every bit as dangerous as an open diff. I'm seriously considering welding it unless you insanely knowledgeable people can back up my fears. The drivetrain can handle it effortlessly, as can the quality of my welder's work. I have no worries of tyres or parking or general driving as this is what I'm used to. I have the HICAS system (obviously), I'm kinda getting used to it, it's handy when parking, and I don't like the idea of removing it or unplugging the fuse, or spending several hundred pounds on a delete kit. TL;DR: THE POINT: Will the HICAS system, actuators, arms and bushes shit itself if I weld the diff. It obviously puts a lot of strain on this area, and the last thing I want is the rear wheels suddenly creating 5 unexpected degrees of Toe. If you guys say it'll be fine, it will be welded as soon as I get it on the road. If the opinions suggest that HICAS (or something I've overlooked) will cause this to endanger the car or it's systems, then I shall wait and modify it accordingly prior to obtaining my beloved diffle-skiffle. Thanks guys - Alex

Why can't they offer multiple engines? A 4 pot base model, a V6 TT mid range, and a terrifying SC'd V8 for the nutters. Cost. That's why. I can only hope!

Cheers mate, thanks to this site I've already learned quite a bit about these cars which has just fuelled my love further haha!

Hi, I'm looking to get a 300 by March, and was recommended this forum as a source of any and all knowledge! I'm a drifter, but not the kind who are happy to put their car into a wall. I currently have an MX5 which will be being sold soon, and replaced with a LWB twin turbo manual. The trick is finding one as there are so few 300's for sale! Here's a couple of pictures of my last build :) I got a nice little Ego boost when I saw the crowd she attracted while in the club stand area at Trax! :D I may get slated for this, so I apologise to any purists, but thanks to my love for track-look and my obsession with aero, I would love for my 300 to look a bit like this: So anyway, hi, hopefully over the next few months I'll become part of the community and attend shows ect with the club. (a 300 would look very out of place on the MX5nutz stand afterall)