poodle

I recently replaced my fuel pump but found it impossible (with my big hands) to remove the fuel pump fuse to drain the lines... Of course disconnecting the pump itself was fine to do this . However I need to replace the fuel filter now so any tips on removing tjay big square box fuse for the fuel pump. Or can anyone else me some japanese sized hands to perform the removal of the fuse :)

http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/communication/nikoz-nissan-diagnostic-app_qcdt_videos.html

i was more looking to have bluetooth obdII so i could use those funky android apps on my tablet pc in the car for readouts

I have a UK spec '90 which i think has ODBI if im not mistaken i also have a boost controller (just incase that makes a difference) what i would like is to use ODBII, now i think i can use a newer ECU? Is this correct. and how will that effect the boost controller ?

theres a fair whining noise coming from the back, very audible inside the car. so my guess is the fuel pump is on its way out hence the lack of power and stuttering

Point me in the right direction. Car appears to pull okay but at 4500 rpm just stops pulling and I get the pop of fuel detonating in the exhaust. I do have a blitz boost controller so tend to keep fuelled with the Tesco 99 as that's the best a man can get round these parts. Any idea what may be causing this problem. If its any help I recently had an issue with a leaky oil pipe around the rear diff cooler which has been replace not sure if this has any bearing on.possibly a sensor issue ? Help appreciated

appears oil may also be dripping off the rear suspension arm, i would have to jack it up to see where its source is and im parked on a cobbled hill :( could this be anything to do with the diff cooler? Its a UK spec

also just started it up to check for smoke (never seen any still none now) from the exhaust and theres a definate whiney nosey from the rear of the car when the electrics switch on like a failing pump to the rear of the car?

oil level was fine when i checked it but the pressure is up and down like whores drawers

Well i dont drive my 300zx daily but i noticed when i moved it some oil on the floor, smells like oil anyway. Today there was a lack of power above 4500-5000 rpm, when i parked at home i noticed that turning the engine off there was a loud wining noise like a failing pump coming from the rear off the car. Not sure what that was, investigation showed the oil leak was coming from the join in the offside exhaust and the mid silencer all the offside pipe from that part on to the rear of the car was dirty. Im going to assume this is not a good thing

guess im gonna have to do a leak test..... *ponders*

yeah i have one fitted

you guys like photos right :) Firstly what i think is my AIV stuff, lots of pipes there :) At IDLE (just started up) At IDLE (warmed up after 10 mins, just starting to warm really) of course it doesnt look too bad like that, but the oil pressure does drop to about 15 when warm (and it didnt before) and the turbo pressure needle never appears to get to the bottom (again it did last week im sure) ;P

sorry this should have been first pic

here are the images of those electrical connectors i mentioned earlier. First the upper connector, these are on the passenger side btw. then much lower down but not far away is this one

would a dry joint stop it working completely for 20 mins? i can imagine that would stop it working at all, or indeed only work at high speeds as indicated in my readings, but in this case it doesnt work at all for about 20 mins then works fine through all speeds until the end of my journey.

mines supposedly a UK spec, i have mph the correct pressure guages and headlamp washers... however i swapped my indicator lights around and removed the dummies for front fogs :) and yes rust is an issue :) hence ive just replaced the brake pipes and fuel tank.

okay while im at it.... my speedo doesnt work... well thats a lie, it doesnt work for about 15-20 mins then just suddenly starts working and shows correct speed.

Im from Skipton (n. yorks / w yorks / lancs border) gateway to the yorkshire dales :)

ill try and snap one when i get home later on :) the cars sat at home

also while im at it, on the left hand side of the engine bay where the manifold starts, there is a two pin electrical connector, its not connected to anything, futther down behind the pipes appears to be its counter part, anyone know what this is or why its not connected. (sorry dont have a photo at this time)

that AIV line taps into the same vac line as the boost sensor apparently according to that removal guide. which may explain a thing or two about the drop in pressure . the line is dangling under the car, if it was capped off then the cap may have been knocked off, it needs re capping and securing correctly.

i need to find some local owners (preferably ones with a boost tester :P )

thanks for the info guys its greatly appreciated, ill certaily look at removing the AIV and get some guages ordered up. its a never ending list of things to do. eesh :)

Firstly hello :) little background Bought my UK 300zx TT on ebay a little while back, with no MOT, so i figured it would need some work. I had the pan welded up, brake lights fixed new horn installed. Failed MOT on brake lines. Had new copper brake lines put in throughout, and the fuel tank and straps replaced. Got the car through its mot has a nice full 12 months HUZAHH okay so the current issue until recently its been running fine, now i know the dash board dials are not the most reliable things on the planet but the oil pressure sat steady between 45-60 ish (when warm), but just recently at idle and low speeds we are talking drops to 15psi then raising to 60psi as i get moving. also the turbo pressure gauge isn't returning all the way to -14 (my boost controller is showing -41 to --50 where im sure it used to read -58 at idle) Ive also spotted under the front of the car approx between the middle of the front wheels, the end of a pipe thats cable tied there, no idea what its doing. Now ive pulled the turbo hoses off and the inlets are all clear, there's no dirt or oil from possible turbo bearing leak and my exhaust is clear no blue smoke or anything worrying. anyone A. know what that pipe should be attached to if anything, its under the car. shrug. and B. know what may be cause of the sudden change in the cars oil pressure and turbo pressure behavior (and if indeed its linked to this mysterious pipe), im parked on a cobbled hill so cant really jack up for a better look in the current position. Some pictures below (i know you all love photos)