grimmer

Yeah!

yeah i have a electric desolding tool, i tested all wiring again today, powered the wires up from a battery to the window amp connector (amp disconnected) and the window rolls up and down fine, i think this removes wiring faults in the door, im still thinking maybe the switch could be dodgy!, but if i power the wires from the switch connector up with 12v the amp clicks, but the 2 pin plug that connects to the window motor the voltage only goes to about 0.9v when voltage is applied....so im guessing the amp isnt switching the 12v to the motor. ive ordered another amp!, im gonna plug it in, but disconnect the drivers window motor and test the wires again!. im thinking the amp maybe just a twin relay system, im not bothered about the passengers window working, maybe i could wire in a standard 30amp 4 or 5 pin relay instead of the amp may work and be cheaper!.

ive soldered all the ones i have up, ive got three amps in total, all came from working cars, they work for a day then stop!, a wiring fault is most likely now im thinking or maybe the switch panel?

yeah i had a go at that today on the drivers side, will have another look tomorrow thanks

Hello, im having problems with my zeds windows they just both packed in a few weeks ago, i installed a new amp in the drivers side, no difference. so ive installed new drivers side motor and regualator, and got another window amp, installed it all and hey presto they both worked, next morning get into the car and the windows dont work again! the amp makes a fast clicking sound when switches are pressed. the only part i havent changed is the passengars motor and reg, all wiring looks good into the car, if i power the motors up on a battery they work fine. could the drivers side switches cause this fault?, its the only thing left!! any help will be great!.

already cut off lol

thanks!

hi gotta change the belt on my n/a soon as stripped a rib, is it just a case of undoing the 13mm or 12mm tensioner nut below the alternator and slip the belt off, or does the fan have to come off? some cars the belt is long enough to slip over the blades one by one, is this the case on the 300? thanks

yep this week, 44 miles from 20 quid to petrol light coming on, had a m3 before so thought was about right. the car is just purely town driving to work and back though. but ive put the std airbox back on this week to see if makes a difference.

well my n/a with no known faults does 44 miles to 20 quid gentle driving, mines chipped and decats. id say your fuel economy was about right, it is a 3 litre car in a high priced petrol world

its the cost of fuel thats gone up loads in the last 3 weeks i reckon!, or check ect sensor

what was your fault?

had this problem on mine, pressure kept dropping and allowing water out of the outlet when shouldnt, it was the accumulator (spelling!), £312 quid later, it looked like a large heater matrix with twin inlets into it.

thanks for your help, mine indeed have the problem above, i just soldering it up, and all other dodgy looking ones but same fault, the little gate things making a high pitch sound and move up and down fast but no moventment in window. also the amp do smell of electrical burning, so i need i new one, anybody on here have one for sale, posted via paypal please cheers

ok, does this control both windows, is it repairable?

Hi, having a few electric window problems with my z!, they work once or twice when i first start the car if i havent used the car for a few hours. they both fail together, or work together. is the windows relay'd somewhere, ive looked under the bonnet but cant see any relays for the windows ,and in the car! anybody help on this? thanks

i put a 075 on mine today, (but i work in a tyre, battery and exhaust bay), they are around 60 cranking amps less than a 068, terminals are right round way, (battery is a bit smaller), but alot cheaper! and turns over the engine fine.

thats why mine doesnt feel as strong on the delvin chip i reckon due to the VVT being later, VVT on the ebay chip must remain the same, i rarely rev mine near to 6k revs, the v6 i dont think likes to be revved hard lol

i will admit to trying a ebay chip for my n/a manual, ive got a socketted ecu so i had to see what they were like, As for feeling a difference in the car, yeah i felt a difference, felt strong after 4k revs compared to standard...... but every morning from start up till warm and after a thrash, a very strong smell of fuel, so i got a delvin chip from a member from here, Car feels just about the same, id say to be honest not as strong after 4k revs, but no smell of fuel anymore!, maybe throttle response on the delvin chip is better. I ran the ebay chip for a around a month, but i thought its now getting colder in the mornings and the car will inject more fuel so didnt want to much bore wash! But the economy between the chips is the same, around 60 miles to 20 quid, standard ecu i got around 75 miles to 20 quid.

yeah ive got one, but the consult is just shareware - can only read codes, cant clear codes and some features are shaded out.

i work in a motorfactors which our main supplier is QH, QH is good quaility, and they stand by their parts,- they offer a 'no quibble' warranty on their parts, if any thing breaks i.e cambelt due to a fault in the belt they pay everything. I recently had a e36 m3 evo, clutch was slipping, so i got prices on oem, saches (from a third party supplier) and QH, QH was the cheapest and they said if it slips they will pay to change it - bmw main dealer was expensive (not susprized), sachs one was ok priced. So the QH one arrived and to delight inside the box is a sachs clutch!, so as i find with most QH parts they are good quaility parts - the sachs clutch in the box, is what main dealer bmw would have supplied me as they make their clutchs!. But for jap stuff, id always sell ADL Blueprint, as its good quaility and fits perfectly.

maybe engine coolant temp sensor - mine has been on way out for a while car stunk of fuel when first started in the morning and was spulttering for the first few miles, changed it last week, runs spot on now the sensors like a choke . cold coolant = more fuel

dont most engine sensors run at 0.5 to 5v?, if theres a short or open circuit within the 5v sensor circuit say maf sensor / tps it can cause problems with the other sensors on the engine

pin for lambda sensor in ecu connector came out

i reckon he hasnt fixed it and looking for solutions