porraqualuser

3rd try dammit -.- https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JjjaDVl56TkaWfVzgk299w?feat=directlink https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ax_tN_UA1-1L5QwN8EwCZA?feat=directlink

^_________ Fail ________^

De Pics

Just for the offer, next time you come here you have a place to stay if you like :)

Still speechless .... \o/ ty \o/

speechless.............

I would like to know one thing- If you accept a car from client and mess up, does the client need to pay for the time you took solving it? And if you brake a part aren't you responsible for replacing it? Or car shops have their own way of working?

Please come to Portugal Jeff!

Ok... I have regreted a gazilion times now for taking my car to this shop... Would be awsome to have someone to help me sort the things is the best way cause i'm not used to deal with these situations. I have been having several problems with them and if someone please give me help i'll tell what i asked and what has been hapening. THis is a shop where i went to ask only for labour as i provided all the parts and they didnt place any issue about it. Asked: - make the 120k service to engine; - find out wich lifters are ticking and replace and remove/wash/refit other lifters; - figure out where from oil was droping to floor; - swap driveshaft bearing; - charge a/c; What i took to them: - timing belt kit from conceptz; - injector/coil plugs from conceptz; - 5 lifters (as directed by mechanic); - motul 300v oil to engine and oem oil filter; Condition of car on arrival to shop: - perfect runner with only some noise from lifters that you could only hear at idle; - no error on ecu; - perfect idle, rev, drive; ============================================ 1st problem - when they were working on car, after replacing lifters and reassembling intake runner, the cyl 5 and 6 had no compression; (after they done something i dont knwo what and cyl 5 and 6 are ok - they say cause i havent been there to see compression mesure yet- - stopped hearing the tick from the lifters as were before and now hear a metalic click everywhere in the engine regime; - error code 13 (CTS) - know cause i have conzult; - tps @ idle was 1,4v - know cause i have conzult; - i notice when looking at engine bay that ps pump pulley was not ok - and was before - They handed me the car this way and of course i returned it right away. Now they are asking me to get a new ps pulley to fix the problem (that i didnt have before), they say that the tick i can hear now on the engine is because of some other lifter/s that also needed to be swapped, and they are talking about stupid long time to do the car and for that they wanna charge 40h of work (40x29€). I feel that i am being scammed so i would ask people with experience in this kind of stuff to help me deal with them. I would like to have a estimate of the time that a shoip would take to make the work i asked, how the problems developed and your idea about it. I need to get solid arguments to go and have a chat with them. This is turning slowly into a nightmare,..... ggrrrrrrr

Guys To be honest the best is to have a old portable with com port on it. Almost every1 has a old laptop somewhere that can be used to datalog; you can even consider using it all time in the car. Today with ssd hard drives we can use a pc on car without worry about the hdd goes bad and it will make a old pc seem a new one. :) What i will do as soon as i have time (€€€€) is to buy a stereo with lcd screen and vga in so i can put a old laptop on the rear of car to have datalog all the time.

Yeah that cable and adapter will work 100%

Good morning Jeff Can you please explain me better what should we do now? What's the correct procedure for installing new lifters? Thanks

Gonna cross all fingers and 1 more :)

Ty for the explanation - now i see that the lifters should have been drained before assembly... that makes sense as i can't think of other reason for this rather then bad valves. I'm going to have a look @ this personally when he works on it to check it out. Does this, if it's the case, make any damage to engine?

1st let me thank you for taking time to help me! :) The mechanic tells me he's pretty shure the timing is right and he turned the engine several times by hand and nothing was hitting nothing. The lifters were new oem parts that yes came sealed in a bag full of oil. I'm not shure what you mean by " It possible they have drained and are not jacking out due to restricted oil flow" - this means that the oil inisde should have been drained before install or the other way around?

Hello mates Imagine that i arrive to mechanic and see if the car is ready and then i am told that it should be but there's a problem that they yet to find why. The service asked was to make the 120k maintenance. Also 5 hydraulic lifters, injector and coil plugs were placed new. Problem is that even they say that timing belt is put right there's no compression on cylinder 5 and 6.... They say that the engine started a little rough and a few seconds after was much better but not 100%. Then they went to check compression and found the issue. Also these are cyl where lifters were swapped. The car was running fine before, just made the noise from lifters. Can any1 help me on the best way to troubleshoot this?

My car is 100% stock

Oh also i have recorded the ecu content but it made a .rom file. Need to find a editor.

Hello guys I have some results from the emance consult software that i would love to have a opinion on. I´m almost starting the task of 120.000 service with more stock stuff like a "new" ps pump, new axle bearing, etc.. Then now i got a cable and pluged my portable :) lets see what whappened: Still trying to to find out why when i hit the brakes more agressively to stop on crossroad or something the car shuts down... ECU: 23710-37P01 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Power Balance Test Summary On 20-07-2010 17:55:00 Coolant Temperature: 178 Deg {F} Idle Air: 35 % Cylinder # 1 Cylinder On Stablized For 2 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Stablized... 878 Rpm Cylinder Off Sampled For 3 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Is Off... 852 Rpm Average RPM Drop Result... 26 Rpm Highest RPM Drop... 78 Rpm Amount Of Data Sampled When Cylinder Off... 192 Cylinder # 2 Cylinder On Stablized For 2 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Stablized... 929 Rpm Cylinder Off Sampled For 3 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Is Off... 860 Rpm Average RPM Drop Result... 69 Rpm Highest RPM Drop... 141 Rpm Amount Of Data Sampled When Cylinder Off... 192 Cylinder # 3 Cylinder On Stablized For 2 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Stablized... 943 Rpm Cylinder Off Sampled For 3 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Is Off... 871 Rpm Average RPM Drop Result... 72 Rpm Highest RPM Drop... 143 Rpm Amount Of Data Sampled When Cylinder Off... 192 Cylinder # 4 Cylinder On Stablized For 2 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Stablized... 947 Rpm Cylinder Off Sampled For 3 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Is Off... 856 Rpm Average RPM Drop Result... 91 Rpm Highest RPM Drop... 147 Rpm Amount Of Data Sampled When Cylinder Off... 192 Cylinder # 5 Cylinder On Stablized For 2 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Stablized... 927 Rpm Cylinder Off Sampled For 3 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Is Off... 835 Rpm Average RPM Drop Result... 92 Rpm Highest RPM Drop... 139 Rpm Amount Of Data Sampled When Cylinder Off... 192 Cylinder # 6 Cylinder On Stablized For 2 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Stablized... 916 Rpm Cylinder Off Sampled For 3 Seconds Average RPM When Cylinder Is Off... 840 Rpm Average RPM Drop Result... 76 Rpm Highest RPM Drop... 153 Rpm Amount Of Data Sampled When Cylinder Off... 192

Ty very much for the ideia! This weekend going to check it out and try to find where it comes from... I hope is just because of some rubber seal gone bad but i dont think so. Seems like i can never completely turn the air system off. Seems that is a steady flow of air from ventilation system... Now i got to the point where i also need some new coil plugs - myne are broken...

Atm my a/c isn't working... going to fill it up next weekend - checked for leaks and had to fix 2, now it's ok. But does this mean you need to keep a/c running? Or some pipe is normally open? How can we, f.ex., close all air ducts?

Hello! I have this "small" problem... that is very bad now in summer. When driving i get a lot of hot air comming from behind stereo. I mean it makes the car very hot inside. Anyone has had this problem and can help me sort this out? Thanks!

This is one of my projects: http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/9572/mys2000cluster002ej0.jpg My 89 rex needs a baby like this because a mate from uk developed the way to change the digital connection to fit 88+ hondas. :) Except this and shoks my rex is a solid rust free, never had accident crx vti. But anyway even nicer would be to get a baby like this that came as option to my other crx the 1987 (mk1) one: http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j127/CR-X85ZC/DSC00568.jpg

http://www.nengun.com/tomei/valve-lifters