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Hi guys, I have got one of the early dastek unichips that was fitted to a 300 TT and it is now going into mine, I have a vague idea as to the connections but I need a schematic for confirmation. I have searched in vain and hope one of you may have some info on this. Cheers

Hi Mark, I am about to embark on a similar build but I am dreading the piston ring gapping process. How easy/difficult is it to ensure that the ring ends remain square after grinding? Is a dremel tool up to the job? Anyways great build this is and I will be following this one for sure. Keep em pics coming. :thumbup1:

You are going about building this zx the right way.....what you have just bought in my currency here in South Africa is equivalent to the cost of a new small city car....I would prefer the zed parts!!!!!

You are going about building this zx the right way.....what you have just bought in my currency here in South Africa is equivalent to the cost of a new small city car....I would prefer the zed parts!!!!!

Terry...please make sure once you are happy with it to thoroughly wash the inside of the plenum out as they do get oily and blast media from the sand blasting with stick to it............ NOT GOOD for your motor to breathe that shit.

Yes an intresting read from NOZ......also intresting which I did not know untill reading this thread is that NOZ is TURBONOZ the supplier of the chip I purchased on the net mid 2012 and is working great.

Have a merry Xmas and prosperous new year guys and remember....... keep the shiney side up and the greasy side down.

LOL.....same translation here in S Africa......all I got is 8 inches but not for him though :yes:.........he has a lovely receptionist might I add :biggrin:

Thanks guys.

Thanks for the comments guys, really value your input........I feel alot more comfy now and will go this route. There are a number of prop shaft specialists here in my area however I am going to wait for my replacement manual box to arrive before I haul the exhaust and prop out. Can the prop specialist use my 2 piece for overall length dimensions or do I need to give him a length and if so anyone know the dimension? Thanks again.

Hello forum, I want to update the oem 2 piece prop shaft and from my research it seems the way to go. I also found on many other zx forums it is common practice to replace the stock one when the centre bearing wears. Whats been bugging me is that among some zx owners and particularly a prop shaft rebuilder I chatted to say thay they have experienced vibrations with a one piece and do not advise it. Anyone on the forum with a one piece "steel" prop shaft care to comment on theirs?

Big end bearings is what you need.

Thanks NOZ, I will pull it out and check out the number. Will also bridge out the 2 pins. Thanks

Hi guys, sorry for the hijack but my OEM ECU (auto trans) on my 1989 300zx TT Z32 does not have a pot or led. I know this because I have opened it up and removed the chip and fitted a socket and upgrade chip. I know of no other 300 with this type. This car was a Jap import and originally an auto now manual gearbox. How do I do diagnosis except with a consult of course? Cheers

Hi guys, I have gone down this path..... here in South Africa the selection of 17/18/19" alloys in the 5x114.3 pcd for my 300zx was very very limited especially in my taste. I found a really nice set of 19" 5x112 pcd which is a common Audi fitment (narrow/wides) and purchased a set of wobble nuts (m12 1.25) from a vendor in the UK. They were quite cheap although the shipping killed it but you got to do what you got to do..... There were no mods to do at all, wheels bolted up perfect with no issues.

Hi there, I recently fitted a set of hubcentric 15mm spacers to the front of my ZX. The kit came with longer studs and was easy to fit. Remove wheel and select a stud and hammer it in towards the hub, it will come out easily. When fitting the new stud I found a magnetic aerial tool inserted onto the hub stud hole, attach the stud thread end to magnet then pull stud through. I then put a socket on the stud and used the wheel nut and spanner to pull the stud up fully into the hub. Hope this helps.

Hi Mark, what I was trying to say is that the finish for composite head gaskets and Cometic steel head gaskets are not the same, I am not on about the trueness/flatness of the surface....50ra for mls gaskets is much smoother (almost mirror finish ) as apposed to normal head skim finish which you can see the machine marks. This is well known on the australian 300zx forums. Sorry for going on like a stuck record...I will shut the @#$% up now.

Hi Mark, not sure if I have missed this in your thread, if you are using COMETIC mls head gaskets remember to have the head face and block deck machined to 50RA as specified by cometic. This is almost a mirror finish and is important otherwise you will get coolant leaks. I am building my forged motor with the same grocery list as you but will probably not use the cometics I have already bought and rather go for OEM HG as I am targeting max 450 BHP. Cheers

Should add an oil pump(OEM) in there as its a critical part while you are in there.

Thankyou gentlemen.

Hi guys, please tell me if I understand this correctly.... I have a auto TT (running auto TT ECU) 5 speed manual conversion. a) If I get the motor to running temp, in neutral and check timing it should read 15 BTDC and then select any gear and timing should go to 25 BTDC (only if neutral swith is connected and working properly.) b) if I dont have the switch connected I set the timing to 25 BTDC. Thanks

Apollogies for the hijack but I am confused...I thought the neutral switch was to not allow the starter to operate when in gear. Why is the timing affected by this swich? I have done a manual conversion on my auto and my timing I have set to 15 degrees, should it be set to 25 as you stated? Thank you

I have 3 sets of heads, 2 TT and 1 N/a set and all have 4 holes..............strange. Hope you come right.

If I understand you then do this, might work...........each TT or NA head has 4 threaded holes around each exhaust port on the head with only 2 studs screwed in diagonally. All you need to do is remove the 2 studs per port to the opposit diagonal on all 3 ex ports and then your manifold will fit.

Hi guys, after tinkering with the ZX the other day I noticed that when i remove the vacuum/boost line that goes off to the 2 dump valves ( piston type) and blow into it I can hear air escaping past the piston and out the trumpet on both DV's. Surely this is not good as it seems to me that this a serious boost leak. I have opened up the DV's and the brass pistons do look a little scored, anyone experienced this? I am leaning toward replacing the DV with diaphram pistonless Greddy type where there is no chance of air leaks unless the diaphram is u/s.