pumagt

Great stuff!!!!!!!!!!

Hi bud, not familiar with a flexi copper brake pipe, I am on about the flexible rubber pipe/hose, the one that flexes when suspension goes up and down and when turning the steering as your caliper/hub move. cheers

Had a similar problem, First possible cause.....whats happening is the piston/s in the drivers side caliper is not releasing and starts to bind the brake. The cause in my case was that the flexible rubber hose at the caliper was shot, ie the inside of the rubber brake hose was perished and was acting as a one way valve. I would apply brakes and the brake fluid would apply pressure to the caliper as normal but when I released the brake the pressure could not return because of the perished inside of the hose. If left over some time without applying the brake it would free itself as the pressurised fluid slowly returned to the master cylinder. You will probably find if you remove the hose you will find it partly blocked. Try replacing the flexible brake hose on that caliper. Second possible cause.....It could also be a seized piston in the caliper. Good luck.

Guys, been through the search and not found what I need to know. I have a Import TT 2+2 and have fitted 19" 9.0J and 9.5J with 35 offsets with 235/35/19 and 275/30/19 tyres. The front hubs have 15mm spacers and I have all the camber correcting parts so I am not concerned about camber problems and I am prepared to flare the rear arch lip in for clearance if neccessary. The rear tyre to arch gap is approx 50mm and the front about 40mm. I would like to know if I can fit lowering springs to my standard shocks which are spec'd at dropping the car about 1.0" (+-25mm). Anyone have a similar situation with positive or negative results? Appreciate any feed back. Coilovers cost in my country (South Africa) at this stage is around a little over half my monthly take home pay so thats out of the question at the moment. Thanks.

Hi guys, got a set of used alloys which I want to fit to my 2+2 ZX and want to have them refurbished, at the same time I thought I would have them widened to the outside. They are 18" 8J 40 offset for the fronts and 18" 9J 35 offset for the rears. Was wondering if I have them widened by an inch (25mm) to the out sides would the numeric offsets be reduced by what is being added, ie front offset would now be 15mm and the rears 10mm. If so would these now fit without tyres catching? I have stock springs. I am looking at 235 30 18 fronts and 275 35 18 for the rears or maybe 265 for the rears would be better. Thanks for any advice.

Just a caution here....the bolts from the auto that hold down the flex plate are shorter than the bolts holding down the manual fly wheel. Must use the longer manual bolts.

Hey thats a pretty impressive list of mods, what con rods are you running?

Hi chaps, would appreciate any help on this. Was gutted the other day when I found out my TT manual has turbos exh housings from an auto (.54). Seems most used import motors here in South Africa are autos these days, so anyway I pulled out all my 200sx turbo spares on the bench and did some head scratching. I know the 300 manual turbos are AR .62 4 bolt pattern and the 200 sx s13 T25 are AR .64 5 bolt pattern. Both the 300 and 200 have .48 compressor sides. If I mated the .64 from the 200 sx to the 300 .48 comp from the 300 would there be a shit load of lag or would the slight difference between the .62 and .64 exh housings be minimal? TIA

Guys, I want to upgrade my turbos but cant afford the real deal GT2871 ect, can the stockers be modded/machined to accept bigger comp and exhaust wheels? my local turbo shop clain so but not sure if it is worth it. Anyone had this mod done and if so was the any significant increase in performance? Appreciate any info. TIA

Hey Atshed, was going to post the very same question....come on people, what are the differences:helpsmilie:

Thanks guys, cant seem to find the resistor mod, searched all the FAQ's to no avail....does anyone know the exact thread? Cheers

Guys, I have TT auto which I have fitted a NA 5 speed manual box to it,the doner NA 300ZX had a 180km/h speedo and my TT has a 290km/h speedo, how do I get the calibration correct? is it a matter of fitting a resistor in somewhere? Thanks in advance.

Hi Jase M, my 300 was auto and busy wiyth a manual conversion and was also thinking of an after market radiator and electric fans.Whats the landed price of the rad and fans here in SA? I agree with the chaps on the forum about the viscous fans as the provide better cooling and reduce under bonnet temps even when the viscous clutch is not engaged and free wheeling but they do suck power from the motor. Had the electric fan set up in my 200sx and it worked a dream in South African 30 degree C stop start traffic on the N1. I se you are in Margate, would that be in SA? Turbo Toys in JHB stock ally radiators for R2500 and you can source a separate transmission cooler for under R800.