vodkashots

I used to build them models for people to a high standard back in my youth, did voyager for a customer once fed fiber optics to some of the windows got the nassels all illuminated looked awesome at night, haven't done one in ages, getting itchy airbrush fingers looking at that daz

he is using something else, its got the date on it.

daz it looks shite mate, i think you should rip that out and send it to me so i can dispose if it by putting it in my car mate. would look much better than dragging your vert down to my standard. i mean come on, your even missing the LED's from the front screen defogger and AUTO button.

if i minus the milage from the odomiter like it says in my KPH to MPH converstion paperwork, im sitting at around 68k miles so yeah not far off.

Defo the clutch mate, can tell, you can hear my wheels spin even in 4th when the boost kicks in. and there has been a strange noise from the clutch area when engaging it. so. ive been through the paper work and no mention of a clutch, so would be about time it went anyway. Tis a lovely clutch indeed. not sure if to frame it or put it on the car.

JeffTT is going to love me advertising his wares all day lol

nice looking as well even if your not going to see them lol

no comment until its finished, and boy am i looking forward to seeing this car finished. :D

like this jack front of the car or better yet get it on ramps, as you get much more clearance, jack and Axel stand the rear. Remove exhaust. Remove heat shield get a jack and jack at the pivot point on the gear box to support the weight of the gear box. Undo the 6 bolts holding the center bearing of propshaft. and it should slide out of the rear of the gear box with out the need to undo the propshaft in the center. Undo the gearstick coupling. NOW this is important. plug the whole at the rear of the gearbox with something like a hairspray lid and gaffertape in place. or your going to empty the gearbox oil all over the place, (unless your going to renew the box oil like i will, in which case just empty the gearbox before you start) Undo the rear gear box support bolts. now lower the gearbox using the jack, but be careful as the engine will still be all wired up and last thing you want to be doing is damaging the water pipes that feed the heater matrix at the rear of the engine. this should lower the gear box at the rear enough to get the top 4 bolts with a 14mm socket on extension bars. Undo the 4 top bolts of the gear box. then the 4 lower bolts. at this point the only thing keeping the gear box connected to the car should be the cabling that goes to the gear box so now would be a good time to undo them. Now with a trolley jack supporting the gear box at the pivot point, pull back slowly to free the gear box, Watch out for the plates that will fall out between the engine and gear box. Lower and move backwards again, until its clear of the clutch housing. now up to you at this point, but if you can get it low enough on the jack while keeping it on there, move it as far back as possible so its out of the way. and jack it against the underside of the car so it cant fall over. but not too much so you damage your car. now undo the clutch housing and remove the clutch, may as well change the thrust bearing and fork while there and check the flywheel's teeth. Fitting is just a reversal. but make sure you have a clutch alignment tool or something that will do the job just as good. to get the new clutch on you will know if its not straight as the gear box will refuse to mate with the engine. Word of caution though, the gear box weights in at around 75kgs. so if it falls off the jack, or you remove it from the jack, you will need help to get it on and stable while you put it back on the car. and for god sake if it falls let it, dont bother trying to catch it while laying on your back, or your not going to be able to open a bottle of beer after.

why do i always find im adding to a parts list with my 300zx lol

will indeed, not that bad a job, its room more than anything. i do all my own zed work, helps keep costs down. plus i just love working on my car.

420 would be absolute limit id imagine, unless you want turbo spindle all over the place lol

shouldnt be, some people on standard tubs have pushed to around 420. which i believe is max, but then to be honest a tub refurb should be on the cards if your upping the boost as they are 20 years old by now and once you start giving things more stress something is bound to break Though id see if you need the clutch renewed, or if its something else if you where stuck in reverse. could be the thrust bearing failed.

or using a old clutch plate. they do eventually give out lol Mines pushing 16psi (digital boost gauge is showing), hks airfilter, straight through decat exhaust. boost jets, Greddy ecu. and i think it must be a standard clutch, i should be around the 360 bhp mark with the mods i have, and the clutch is only just starting to slip.

ill be getting the one off jeff as mine has just started to slip on boost, its better equiped to handle the power of a tuned 300 and also feels like a OEM at the same time. good combo if you ask me.

wheels look really nice, i love those side skirts though, what make are they?

If you want a decent clutch mate, jeff sells them. end off lol

Think my clutch is going to need changing. its slipping in 4th and 5th when the boost kicks in. revs go up, but no difference in speed. and no loss of control so tyres are gripping still. Jeff looks like ill be getting one of them lovely clutches off you at some point this year mate. will be taking it steady at the moment so as not to make it worse than what it is. oh well, thats me racing police cars out for the next few months lol

Well, to be honest whats on paper doesnt necessarily = real world driving conditions, just look at the mclaren f1 vs veyron video from topgear, on paper the veyron should of beat the mclaren off the line at 2.6 seconds to 60, vs the mclarens 3.1 seconds. yet the video clearly shows that the mclaren left it off the line. I beat a Audi R8, on the way to meet steams. coming up to the a14 / a14 round about, the first set of lights, he steamed off towards the m11, i pootered around the corner thinking "no way in hell am i even standing a chance against that", as i came around, he was sat at the next set of lights that had caught him on red. as i came up, they went green, so i had a good 30mph rolling start on him. so seeing the road was clear, i nailed it. boost shot to 16psi, changed gear, boosted again. i could see him catching, got into 5th and boosted again. i wouldn't say i left him, but by this point he was struggling to keep up. anyway got to the A14 / M11 around about and slowed down for the red lights. he came up beside me flashing his lights and smiling, i suppose that was his real challange in it and was loving it from the look on his face. Have to admit i was surprised by the shear power a slightly modified zed has over something that new. i was a nervous wreck all the way to steams house lol I dare say though, had it been a standing start he would of left me.

happy birthday buddy

Tis a myth mate, it doesn't exist lol

Gratz hun, just lemmi know when your about my area, ill make sure i walk that day ;) lol

The control box in the drivers door usually fails, is this what you have checked?

well not really of value, only to the bomb squad, was playing Airsoft over at the old finmere airstrip, when a friend of mine Mat Langston, kicked a live grenade that was covered in bud. he thought it was a imitation one at first. but then realised when he picked it up that it was a real one, he soon put it down, and then we had to wait a good few hours for bomb squad to come and do there thing. was quite amusing to be honest. but hes lucky it didnt go off.

Happy birthday matey