NA6CETOM

S2000 Owners swear by 'Shin-Etsu Grease', available from all Honda dealers, part number 08798-9013 to sort out leaky seals. It works too :)

I should have elaborated. Depends if the front of the sill is considered to be load bearing.

Not entirely true. Any area of corrosion that is deemed excessive by the tester will fail. Alot depends on the tester, and if he got laid the night before :)

Good luck jacking your Z up to work on the front suspension if the front sills are knackered ;) Unless the Z has had alot of other work to correct corrosion, and is in very good mechanical nick elsewhere, I'd consider getting rid :( You could spend a grand on a bad example, and it would still only be worth a grand...

Whack the relay whilst turning the engine over. Relay connectors/internals can be cleaned using emery cloth if that's the problem.

Roger...many thanks :)

I will be replacing both of my manifolds (hopefully) in the very near future. Have you got any hints/tips to do this with the engine in situ?

Great write up...were you experiencing engine issues?

Shin-Etsu grease available from Honda dealers, part number 08798-9013. This is what S2000 owners use to grease (and therefore expand) their soft top seals twice per year. It is proven to work and may just solve your problem.

New temp sensors are ~£12. I had a code 13 on mine...renewing it sorted the problem. To be fair, it's the usually the connectors (shocker) that are the problem, rather than the sensor itself.

Change the lamp...it's usually the culprit. If that doesn't work, check the connections as mentioned.

Is there nowhere else you could relocate it? The OEM position is shat to say the least.

I'm guessing it's at least a days worth of work :(

What's the need for lifting it at least half way out? Is it just that there isn't much room to get tools in etc?

I'm replacing all of the exhaust (including manifolds) as the N/S blows like a bitch and the rest of it as pretty ropey.

Tt :)

I am inclined to strongly disagree. I know of countless Z32s needing a new waterpump because of the viscous fan...£££. A waterpump bearing has to take the load of the waterpump itself AND has the load a great big whacking fan blade on the end, which is at a considerable distance from the waterpump (relatively speaking)...it's not good. I will be converting mine, even if other owners have had no problems before.

In short, I have a complete, brand new exhaust system to install. Do I absolutely, categorically, 100% need to remove the engine to replace the exhaust manifolds? Or has anyone done it with the engine in situ before?

Yes you can, but wear ear defenders and goggles...seriously. 1 bar can knock your eyeball out it's socket. Many will say they've been ok when they've done it...but please...don't take the risk...it's not worth it.

I'm in Fareham, and am happy to have a look at your Z, although will only be able to offer advice, rather than checking compression etc. I'll bring my mate Matt along too, who is very knowledgeable.

That's not strictly true...it's pre '96 (not sure of the month though). It'll still have to pass the emissions test however.

Ok, just because alignment has been done, it doesn't mean the adjuster isn't seized in the bush. Whoever carried it out may have been able to move the eccentric bolt(s) just enough to get it in spec, or it may be seized in the correct position, which is still far from ideal. Were the pressures checked before alignment? Somewhere like TDI North in Warrington will provide a good service at this sort of thing. But FFS...check your calipers aren't sticking before spending any more money, it's an easy, 15-20 minute job with your car jack :)

Tyres pressures, geometry or sticky brake caliper.

If it didn't do this before you fitted the gauge, then you have probably caused the problem. You'll have to check all your connections thoroughly and other connections in that vicinity.

Eibachs are notoriously hard, so adding 19" wheels will reduce the ride comfort further. You want some amount of compliance on our roads as the surface isn't fantastic. Increasing the rigidity too much will loose this compliance, preventing you from putting the power down effectively.