Ant and Lari

Do you mean the 4 pcv hoses??? if so there all on fine from looks of it. Cleaning the IAA seems easy along with all it's ancillaries. Just is the gasket nissan only part??? Interestingly the car always idled high. The screw was only about half a turn of fully open so this sticking might just be the issue. Ps. Is there an easy way to adjust the screw with a battery in the way???

Right I'm stumped at the moment. TPS measure fine. When I take the IAA connector off I can't idle at all. Turning the screw makes no difference. It is turned out anti clockwise fully at the moment. Which I believe is max idle?? I get 10 ohms measured on the connector so that seems fine and when plugged in the car will at lease try not to stall. The car if the throttle is open even just a little and held the car idles at 1100 fine and smooth with no hunting. also has throttle is opened I can hear PCV valves click on both sides. Is lightly opened you hear them flicker. So although I might have week PCV valves (possible cause of another issue) its not where I think the issue is. Could it still be my iaa valve?? Should I take it of and clean up all of it fully and see if it works?? as to gasket is this a stocked park by Nissan? or can I get it elsewhere? could I use silicon gasket? or a home made card gasket? or another option I have missed. Thanks

I give thes a go and see. What's the procedure to set the base idle???

Any ideas????

Im having issues with idle. All of a sudden today the car was trying to idle at 600rpm. Then would stall. Bit of history. The car had the water pump go about 4 month ago. The car never overheated. I only got round to replacing the water pump 2 weeks ago. and did the Cambelt tensioner idlers etc all at the same time. The other item changed was the PAS pump as this sounded aweful and was turning on the hicas light. The car when starting was a bit noisy from a sticking tapped but this cleared once warm as it had been sat but ran well. The car pulls very well (better than before the work) and is still now it's idling bad. Thoughts please where to start looking. Thanks.

I'm changing all the front bits on the engine. I have striped it all and replaced all 4 cam seals but I can get the crank gear of to replace this seal. Thoughts???? I'm not sure how to even get behind it to pull it off. I would like to change it as EVERYTHING else is being replaced. I have the bits to place the back plate and gear. I did read about cutting it off but that looks like it could go wrong. Should I just leave it??? Thanks.

Right my water pump looks to have seized. I think im right in saying with the alternator belt off I should be able to spin it by hand???? If so its solid. It threw the belt off Sunday and I put it on again and the car would not start. Removed it and it did. Tried spinning the pump and it's solid. If this is the case the I take it it should be as simple as remove and flush the water ways and replace??? While apart anything I should also check and do??? I'm thinking cambelt while apart. Power steering pump (it's a bit grindy). Anything else??? Where is best to get the pump and belt from???

Hi, my subscription ran out without me realising, so I have just renewed it via Paypal. However it says on the sticky thread I need to email Steve-300ZX stating my real name, user name and postal address. I can't see an email address on his profile and it won't let me PM, could someone advise? Thanks

Bump

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-TURBO-NON-TURBO-FRONT-TENSION-ARM-ROD-KIT-/160661198090?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256827550a Too good to be true??

For that new entire links might as well be bought.. any more advice??? Thanks

WHAT!!! Should I be handing you a straight jacket??? LOL

Well Im going to look at the original wire and probably replace it fully as it looks corroded down a fair way. But useful to know about that as it looks tidy. Thanks

Aylesbury is an hour and a half away. and with out a car not too easy. 30 delivered??

Its just one thing after another.. Car mad a sound as it was tried to tbe started and then after that all that happens is all the dash lights go out and you get a load of wuring sounds from the car. Not like a grinding gear. More electrical interference. It carrys on for a while even with the ignition off. It sounds like the starter motor might be the noise and maybe the solinoid is shorting. the car bumpstarts fine and drove fine (Until the alternator belt through its self. Ill get on to that) So the RAC came out and said the earth has a high resistance and although is a bit better is not great. Could it be just this or is it still gonna be the starter??? Second why would a 1 year old belt throw its self? This is the alternator belt. The fan turns fine and does not feel like it has any play and the alternator spins fine. (Need to check play) Is it just unlucky? It would be nice to sort this soon as its a pain not having this on the road.

Are the Japspeed rods for 107 worth getting? (I take it thats the pair...) The car is not going anywhere soon.

Where best to buy(You im assuming!!!) I have a company that can press them. Thanks

Right Searching is just giving SOOO much conflicting data.. What is the definitive cheapest but reliable way to replace the ever so weaping bushes? OEM? Poly? New Arms? Thanks

Because my hicas is on all the time not when the fault happens. The 2 might be unrelated.

Not silly but yes after a hicas test originally threw a fluid low level error. The fluid is full and no signs of it leaking.

It is an import. Where will I find the sensor? or is that a seach and find mission. The Hicas light never goes out when the other 2 work is this still related? How can I bypass the wiring back to KPH to test. Also do I just buy any new converter?

Right I seem to have developed the issues that seems to relate to the Speed sensor. I loose power steering and speedo at the same time. Im also wondering is the Hicas error is the same fault? The hicas passes the diag test fine and so not sure what else is the issue. Also where is the speedo sensor on the manual gearbox. Makes the job a bit quicker. Thanks

Hi guys, having a problem with my TT zed :( Today the battery, anti-lock & lights dash lights came on mid journey and now will not disappear. Lost power steering as well but has now returned. Recently fitted HID kit (about a week ago) Tried disconnecting the battery and have checked all fuses under the bonnet but no change. Engine runs and sounds fine, any suggestions on what to check would be appreciated!

Ok thanks everyone, v helpful, & glad you like the car. Stu - thanks for the tips, I agree black and manual is best, although saw one in a nice smoky grey colour for sale a few weeks back, shame it was a bit of a dog. Anyway in mine theres just a blanking panel where the cruise control should be. Strange as like you say I thought it was standard. Just wondered if its easy enough to fit if I wanted to. For discs and pads is there a preferred upgrade or is it advisable to upgrade the calipers too? If so any tips on the cheapest decent option - are K-Sports the way forward? Thanks again

Just thought i'd pipe up and say 'ello. Bought my first zed about a week ago, pics attached. I'm guessing it might have belonged to a club member at some point cos its got a 300zx.co.uk sticker on it (not sure if it was put on by the guy I bought it off) So if anyone recognises it let me know! Its the jap import manual TT. Really happy with it so far having moved up from a 1.2 corsa... bit of a difference. Had a bit of a hairy moment in the wet but otherwise absolutely lovin it! Not sure if this is the right place but have a few questions if anyone can help - Firstly my clock isnt working, my o/h hasnt checked the fuses yet but on all the ones we looked at none of the clocks worked... is it a known fault and if so is it easily rectifiable? Is cruise control able to be fitted and what is needed? Are there any instructions on how to remove the dash as its been converted to blue lights and now my fuel warning light doesnt come on....? Fuel filler cap is a bit dodgy, have to press the lever down about 3 or 4 times before it works. Is this a known fault? If so how can I fix? Also brakes are a lil bit shocking.... what sort of upgrades are normally done? Any suggestions? Thanks guys and sorry for all the Q's :)