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If anyone would like to know if the big ends have gone on any engine all you have to do is remove the spark plugs, insert a rod into the spark plug hole, rotate engine by hand, not by the starter motor, until the piston reaches TDC. When the rod that you have inserted starts to go down, stop and put slight pressure on the rod. If the big end has gone you will feel a slight movement, even if there is slight wear in it you will definately be able to feel it. It may take a while as you need to check all six.

try tradex 02089111555

Hi, is it a turbo or non turbo engine as i have a turbo bottom end (58,000 miles on it) and also a complete non turbo engine.

I didn't remove the cas i just unplugged it and cleaned it while it was still on the engine. It doesn't have to be a modelling file, just something like that which is small enough to do the job. It was Jeff from z world that was describing how difficult it is to clean them, you only need one not to connect properly and the whole thing doesn't work.

As i said when i rebuilt mine i put it all back together and it just would not start. I cleaned the cas plug and pins with wd40, then again with circuit board cleaner and again with thinners. None of this made any difference. In the end i bought a modeling file from a model shop, filed the internal connections in the plug and used sandpaper for the pins in the cas. I then put it back together again, turned the key and it fired straight up. It took me two days of messing around and one phone call to z world to finally cure the problem with something more than just fluids. I found it frustrating because i thought they were cleaned properly but apparently they weren't! I'm definately going to keep hold of my file now for the electrical connectors!

I have just redone mine as it had exactly the same problem. It turned out to be the cam angle sensor located at the front of the engine on the right hand side as you look at it, it is round with a multi plug in it. If you take the plug out, clean all the connectors in the plug and on the sensor it should sort the problem out. If it not connected properly you will get no ignition spark or fuel.

Ask for a complete breakdown of the work done to hours per job you also need to find out how much of the work was subbed out,if they give this to you then you might stand a chance,as we all know there is no set prices as companies all charge different

There are only four bolts and should only take 15 min but don't forget to tie it up

The quickest way would be to disconnect the propshaft from the diff and tie it up out the way, that way you can tow it front first. It's a lot less hassle than taking the bumper off! Martin

Hi all, I ordered a set of goodridge braided brake hoses that arrived in super quick time. When i tried to fit the hoses they were completely wrong for the car. They had no fixing points to fix them to the front strut which made them totally useless for the job. I decided to phone goodridge uk and was told by them to return the new and original hoses to them so that they could make them up to the right spec which have now arrived and are identical to the original hoses. I was just wondering if anyone else on the forum has come across this as goodridge now have a new part number for the correct hoses (ZZMB-01) Martin

It really depends on what damage is underneath the filler. The best thing to do is take all the filler out and then post another picture, that will give the rest of us a better idea on how to advise you what way forward to go with it. Not long back we repaired a skyline which had loads of dents right across the roof and we took the roof lining out, tapped them back then filled them, the car was pushing 600bhp and the filler never even moved. If used properly you should have no problem filling the damaged area as long as the damage is not to major.

If the paint used on the repair is acrylic paint (aerosol) then you can use a rag with petrol on it to wipe away the overspray, if you use cellulose thinners then some plastics will react to it. The reason the filler is coming off looks like they didn't prep the surface properly, if at all before filling it. If that is the case then all the filler will need removing and starting again from scratch. I have my own spray shop and have seen this so many times!

Hi i'm Martin and i have a import 300zx tt, i am in the process of putting it back on the road as it had been sat for some time when i bought it. I am based in Hampshire and luckily have my own workshop where i am carrying out the work on the 300 between jobs!