mrogers

Live and earth goin to the pump and there is no noise, no even the priming which i have always been able to hear.

Well it done friggin work so they wont get far. Anyway back to the technical problem

nope no imobiliser or alarm

Sympton: Car wont start. No sound from pump Tried so far: Checked Fuel Pump Fuse Check car had fuel Took off fuel pipe, cranked engine and No Fuel Delivery Checked there was power going to fuel pump and there is Removed CAS and turned by hand with ignition on, Injectors clicked, still no sound from Fuel Pump Cleaned up CAS, PTU and all electrica; connectors to do woth Fuel delivery Removed Pump and had it Tested out of the Car and it worked. Swapped ECU no difference Swapped Fuel Pump Relay No Diference Swapped Fuel Pump ECU No Difference Where do i go next?

Just possibly a free flow exhaust, the reast is fine. Set controller up for about 1bar boost

i was ever forced to put 95 in i always turned down the boost

yep dont run upped boost on 95

sounds like the steering wheel is set just out, which would be the reason. the hicas think your wheel is slightly turned when it should not be.

as i recently heard somewhere, if it was that good it would be on every shop shelf, not just on the bay of flea

have you tried turning down the boost and see if its still there?

i see an r33 quite a bit on the way to work and whoever owns it should be shot its the worst GTR copy ever.

mines a UK and the pump was in the tank.

bin the aiv's nissan did on later cars IIRC.

none they wont work on my xbox lol

either that or you hicas joints are faulty, does the back end feel funny at all? like it skips a bit over bumps

steering slightly off, you need a wheel alignment

Speed chime thingy?

remove the boost controller, take car back to stock and se what she is putting out then. 21psi is going to get you a hefty engine rebuild if thats whats happening. Did Jeff do a consult check on your car? If so did it give any info un uprated engine, i.e injector size and map settings?

Not just the marshalls it was at the bottom of the pit lane, where the **** were all the pit crews?

I though you just undid 4 bolts on the passenger side cam cover, pulled it forwards and had a look at the cam belt

congrats

WTF even im lost and i talk *****x for a living lol

Its not the ignition causing the non start problem, well apart from the fact that there isnt one and I can start the car with any key/screwdriver/knife/bit of wood etc as there is no barrell lol. My drilling skills arnt the best and thus i was hoping for an easier option, but i shall give it a go :)

Whilst my car is in bits i decided to clean up my electrical connectors. When i went to do the MAF i noticed that the pipe out of the top of my BOV's had been linked together and the attchec to the connection on the drivers side, leaving the one on the passengerside not connected to anything. Would this have caused any problems? Have ive connected to back normally now, but cant see why this would have been done in the first place.

As my ignition was smashed to pieces when my car was broken into, I was given another ignition barrell that was attached to a steering rack by SWZ. Now, would it be more advisable to get the ignition off one steering rack and put onto the one in my car, or to swap out the existing rack for the replacement one? I know getting the old one off is a tad tricky due to the sheer bolts, but what are the things to watch out for when swapping racks. Hicas adjustment etc.