Black300ZX

I just fitted my avcr yesterday, i was running standard boost before this. but now i hear my turbo winding up, such a lovely sound too!! Now i need to figure out how to configure it!! lol

Yeah the problem is you cant call two functions from a href, you need to create a new Sub or function and within that sub / function do this: Function RefreshPages() { loadXMLDoc('menu.php','menu'); loadXMLDoc('aContact Us.php','browse'); } End Function Then simply call the RefreshPages Sub from within the href like so. Link Please note, the syntax isnt 100% but the logic is correct :hyper:

:hyper: Only just heard that Japfest in on 20th MAY, had no idea! Whos going?? Not seen any mention of it on ere! Whats the crack? :hyper:

You can buy a full set from courtesy parts, they sell them in batches of 3, and obviously they are BRAND NEW :hyper: One the few parts i bought that i was really happy to get hold of, nothing worse than dodgy injector connectors... :headvswal I would recommend heat shrinking the cables too (in addition to the original heatshrink), the originals become very flimsy when the engine gets hot.

Looks like im gonna have to buy a new multimeter then :hyper: Thanks people :bow:

oh yeah, the tubs have little pressure because im running it in, they disabled them using the actuators or something....oh i dunno, :rofl:

Yeah Dave, i wish the blue smoke issue was a simple "old oil in the exhaust" problem, but i get stacks of the stuff billowing out after revving or overrun, on idle there is light smoke. Its deffo oil too cuz its blue and it stinks :confused: Nobles reckon its the tubs because they have little pressure, so the seals leak into exhausts, does this sound right, on overrun??? The tubs are brand spankin too :eek:

Rear Diff Light? where is that on my dash? could my rear diff not be getting cooled enough? Its the 10AMP fuse mate, cant remember what it says on the box, the front most fuse.

Strangely, other people have suggested the same! Just wanted some opinions from people from these forums too, lot of experts on ere. Anyone else agree with alternator fault? How much are they and where can i get one? Mines a Jap import...

Hi all, Been a while, taken 2 years for Nobles to complete my engine. finally got it back, but im not happy... ok so here goes... [iGNITION ON] Not a problem Batt Light ON Anti Lock ON Fuel Pump Check ON Light (Works fine when brake pedal pressed) [CRANK ENGINE] Takes a few turns, but to be expected with a brand new engine... [ENGINE RUNNING] Batt Light HALF ON (dims gradually, but is always slightly on) Anti Lock ON (for a while then goes off as Batt Light dims) Speedo (Randomly just stops registering speed, goes to zero, never works again until re-ignition) Turbo Gauge DEAD (see fuse issue below) Power Steering RANDOMLY DIES and comes back to life when driving, worse if engines just started. Light ON Permanently regardless of whether im pressing the brake or not. I noticed a fuse had blown in the box on the right of the engine bay, the fuse nearest if you are in front of the car, so i replaced the fuse, WOAH, turbo guage works, COOL.... 2 hours later, nothing, popped fuse again... ANY IDEAS??? Driving me nute.. :headvswal (blue smoking too, bearing in mind i just spent £13000 on this fully steel engine) :rant: Regards, Not a happy chap! John

does the ZX TT have traction control, am i missing something here, ive heard a few things here and there, but god knows! Someone clear this up for me please! :hyper:

How much does it cost? ish?

Hi, where can i get me one of these hard pipe kits? Its been a 1 yr since i was on here, smithy's was the last place i remember, but they arent on his site.

I feel i must share my experiences with this company so others dont make the same mistake! I ordered a 300ZX TT Engine from them and paid £1250 when i made the order, i then asked when it would be delivered, they said 2 days. 2 weeks later after numerous phone calls (47 in total) the engine arrives. By this time i was extremely miffed, as they took my money quick enough, but took their time delivering the engine. Anyway i had it delivered to John Nobles Motorsport in chesterfield, who promptly did a leakage test, i received a phone call from them telling me that the engine was duff, two cylinders were leaking 100% into each other, exactly the same problem i had with my original engine. So i phone them up and informed them of the problem with the engine (as did John Nobles) they said "oh no, you have to put it in the car first, then it will work ok" bol1ocks said Nobles! Foreign Car Spares swore blind that the engine was immaculate and that it had just had new head gaskets on it. It had new gaskets alright, but the engine was buggered. I asked them to pick it up and give me a refund (this is were the fun begins). The said they would pick it up the next day and refund me when they received it. 89 calls and 3 weeks later i got my refund. But i was swearing down the phone to them, they gave me excuse after excuse, and in the end, being abusive was the only thing that got a response from them. I have deliberatly waited for them to refund before posting this message. But i thought i would just let others know what kind of treatment they would receive should something go wrong with Foreign Car Spares. Do yourself a favour, dont cut corners, avoid Foreign Car Spares at all costs, its only going to end in tears. I know a few people have had no problems with these guys, but its when something goes wrong when the problems start. A pointer: If you want results, ask for Mr Khan, not Dave or the reception lady (she is absolutely useless). Jeff @ zedworld did try and help me get things sorted. So thanks for that Jeff. Consequently, i am now getting John Nobles to completely rebuild my engine from scratch, including two new heads, $2600 in new parts as well as new Forged Pistons etc. It aint gonna be cheap but at least its gonna be a proper job done. BTW, the misfire problem i had was caused by a cracked piston, not the head gasket! All comments welcome. If you wanna ask me anything regarding Foreign Car Spares you can call me 07884482099

Do i have to Completely remove the timing belt, bottom covers, crank pully to get the heads off? If so how do i get the damned crank pully off, ive removed the bolt and when wiggled it moves about 1mm. Same with the fan clutch pulley, how do i remove that, its stuck solid.

Yeah its expensive, apparently they are over estimating so i dont get a shock when the final bill comes in, but they did say that was a realistic figure. As a result i've decided i'm gonna give this a go myself, and if i fook it up i can still always get another lump dropped in. What will i need, i have an idea, but on the off chance i am missing something, can someone list the things i'll need, here is what i have. 2 New Head Gasket Kits 2 Set of Head Bolt Full set of new valves Plenum Gasket Kit New piping (the old ones are looking a bit scary) Question: Can the heads be taken out with Cams in place?

Whats CTM mate?

Duffers, when i take a piss in the mornings, it feels like it burns... Would this be the Yellow Temp Sensor too?? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :slap: :slap: :slap:

I have one mate, not sure i will be able to fix your car though! Where are you exactly? And whats up with ya car?

Ok each cylinder on the passenger side Bank failed at 100% Leakage. As well as that, we used a camera on each cylinder and could see damage to exhaust valves. The head gasket is gone because the entire bank leaks to each cylinder. So, they quoted me 3000 for a full head skim new valves, gaskets, seals etc... This is way beyond what i am prepared to pay, this car cost me £3400. So any suggestions? i have £1500 for the engine replacement with jeff at ********, are there any other suggestions? What should i do?

OK, putting it all back together now, John Nobles Motorsport are gonna do a leakage test on for £38....bargain, got it in for saturday. Now only thing is, i tok the plenum off, but there was no gasket, only Instant Gasket Sealant, which is shredded, do i need a new gasket for the plenum, if i dont have one will this affect the leakage test? I was told it wouldnt...but i'm just checking with you guys!

To be frank (and like most other Z owners i'm guessing) i just want a fooking car that runs smoothly, all this dicking about is too depressing for me. A straight engine swap is fast, relatively cheap, and no hassles, FOR ME, and it will cure a lot of OTHER problems i'm having with the engine. Oh and a 4 month guarantee to boot... peace of mind counts for a lot these days. You guys that rebuild your engines yourself...i couldnt wait that long... i want to enjoy my car with no wrinkles or hair loss due to waiting for parts, you guys are crazy... i guess i just have no patience, someone slap me :slap:

Jeeeez, there is always one.... :rofl: That just to temporarily hold it in place... honest guv... ummm... i mean... it runs cooler that way... :slap: :rofl:

So what do you suggest i look for? This can be put back together, so that is not the issue here, i was merely looking for visual signs of damage / things not seating correctly / oil being present / etc, etc... as advised... The fact that the two banks are different colours warrants my efforts worthwhile, this indicates that head on the right is either newer / has been reworked or repaired etc.. wonder why. What do you think the reason is?

Gaps between the Cam and the Lifters, as advised i might add, by several people!