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AndyGP

Dormant Member
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  1. Hi all - long time no post ;-)) Does anyone have or know of some spare space in a workshop or garage or warehouse/barn or similar where I can finish working on my ZED? Happy to pay/share costs/rent or whatever. It's just fibreglassing and mild fabrication moving forward and I need to move my beast or dump it! Any help appreciated. Andy
  2. Just thought I would share how I mounted/re-located my dual MAFs in custom 76mm inlet piping.. Take your MAF and place on 10"CHOPSAW - cut here... and here... (Observe take the usual safety precautions goggles/gloves etc.) Then chop twice across the length... - I used an angle grinder... You now have a unit that you can mount anywhere in your 3"/76mm piping just by drilling a 20mm hole like in this piece of scrap: I have fixed them with sealing mastic - removal for cleaning would be via a cheese wire and then re-stick with mastic afterwards. I plan on placing the particle gates elswhere in the line nearer the filter end.. ..They are easily removable from the MAF enclosure. I know some folks have discussed mounting MAFs nearer the TB's - this allows you to mount them pretth much anywhere and is a lot cheeper than buying these and introduing 2 more joins into the system! You could even mount them in a silicon pipe/connector piece :punk::clap: Your thoughts/abuse/comments appreciated as ever...
  3. DOH! Still no word - can anyone help me out with a moby number please? andy.gp@gmx.com
  4. ...or better still Picasa v3 - freebie from google... http://picasa.google.com/
  5. Hi Vijay - do you mean like a thumbnail viewer??? What do you want to do with them once they are on your screen? http://www.mindspring.com/~lsumberg/Dolphin/NickelViewer/index.htm
  6. Thanks Jimmer - same hotmail address - or has something changed? andy.gp@gmx.com
  7. Hi - anyone know if John is back from the Orkney Islands yet?? :boat:
  8. Yeah lots - having real problems getting up enough positive mental attitude to jump out of a plane with my daughter this year as promised [for example]!!! lol :w00t: Thanks Gary - appreciated.
  9. ... Left that for 15 mins then added another coat - now left for a couple of days so that I can flat and buff. Obviously one could not use the above method generally, but if you have a difficult shape to CF into where you want tight angles and sharp corners, particularly as above... I could have done it in one piece, but the corners would not have been so defined and with the centre join - it would have been very difficult to get right I feel. More to follow soon. Let me know your thoughts. ;-)
  10. Well I have been crazy busy with work (good thing), and any spare time I have had I have been dedicating to mastering a few carbon fiber techniques that I will need as I move on to complete my engine skins and some internal pieces. All high visibility. This included seaming/joining carbon twill a little like this \\\|/// I have started work on carbon-ating the slam panel (OLD PICTURES) - this piece that goes across the top of the rad, secures the rad/cowl and helps force air into the engine bay/rad: This piece will also possibly help re-locate the [non-standard] headlights. It's quite a complicated piece and I decided to do it in three sections - each section with a centre join down the middle with the carbon twill pattern being directional towards the outside of the car in all cases. So life got more complicated for sure - but only one person to blame duh!!! So three pieces/3 joins - here are the three sections: 1:/ is the 42mm strip/lip that sits over the chrome cowl. 2:/ is the face of that lip that sits on the face of the rad at the top. 3:/ is the rest of the slam panel. I have completed 1:/ and 2:/ and await some final fit mods to other related parts before I finish it completely. I have kinda created my own pre-preg (well look and feel anyway) by using 3mm coremat as the template for the carbon part, placing the coremat on some foil on a flat surface, laying down some resin (poly) and applying a piece of CF to it. Whilst in the green stage I simply cut the carbon (sharp scissors) out to the shape of the coremat template and then to final fit. I had already completed the first part 1/: as above in the same way as follows: So coremat cut to shape and wetted out: Carbon applied and pressed flat: 15 mins later: Test fit (the part is dry in this picture but still flexible and workable): By applying minimal resin to the coremat - the carbon piece stays flexible and really does look and feel like pre-preg - but of course it's not. So one side done, same on the other - overlap the joint and cut along the desired line. Clean up the off-cuts and we are ready to make this permanent! I brushed on a coat of surfboard resin to the part and the rear of the coremat and lined everything up. Hard to see here - but I have two joints of opposing twill pattern nicely lined up here: 20mins later the surfboard resin had done it's job - now time for a flood coat: Cont...
  11. Cheers guys - I was being a dumb-ass!
  12. Hi, As above - no battery at the moment but need to push the car around - how can I disengage the park lock on the auto box so i can put her in Neutral guys? :censored:
  13. Thanks Gary - cake seems to be disappearing so must be good
  14. This has been kicking around my workshop/studio too long - I have now completed it and short of adding the led circles for under the two vents it's ready to fit. I will just be using velcro to attach this to the two rail brackets. Rather moody shots...:alien: And it goes here: :wub: Oh and wifey made a cheescake and insisted I show it off as well... Sorry! x:devil:

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