Pete.Watso

These original factory Jap spec alloys were taken off my Slick top SWB 300ZX many years ago with genuine mileage of 37000 and stored in loft to preserve. They have no kerbing, scuffs etc and are in their original silver finish. I no longer have the car and just need the loft clearing for imminent hose move. The tyres are still on but perished somewhat tel 07747 035677 Pete.

These are the original wheels with tyres (tyres a bit perrished) that where fitted to my 1991 SWB TT Slicktop. The car at the time was circa 40K miles. I took the wheels off many years ago (stored in my loft) to preserve, as they were in original unscuffed condition. I am now moving house and I don't expect to get another Z for the forseable future. Must be worth £25 to someone? 07747035677 Pete

Don't understand can't interact with this site? Pretty sure I'm a paid UP MEMBER, have never had a message about being unsubscribed. Everytime I ping a message to contact to club contact falls on deaf ears. Really pissed...

Very hesitant sale of this much loved beauty, but I realy don't use it any more and my wife and find it too difficult to get in and out of. (getting old!) I am the second owner since it's import and I have all the history including original import sales invoice £13.5K if memory serves me right and very low mileage too . I have owned since around 2002 (need to check exact dates) when it had covered around 63000KM (39K miles). At the time I looked at loads and this was the best and most original then. I have used it very sparingly it now reads 92375KM (57K miles). It has always been garaged and covered and is very original and unspoilt. Although it has leather seats (and I have an excellent spare electrical passenger seat & loom) that I have't got around to fitting. I removed the original twead seats which are in excellent condition for preservation (they are stored in my loft). The car has just passed it's MOT with no advisories and has 6 months tax as of 1st Sept. It is running sweet gearbox changes very smoothly. Tyres are very good (have some spare wheels and tyres too in good nick). It has a up market air filter (still have the original), Stainless Steel large bore (nice sound not too boomy inside), speed limit governor and chime overidden, chipped ECU, higher wattage fog lights, oil cooler for autobox, Series 2 PTU other than that totally standard. Bodilly I dont believe there is any rust, there is the odd car park dink and marks due to storage. I know I will live to regret selling as there can't be many left of this model in this condition. No doubt as a super car that they are values will continue to increase. It comes with original stereo cassttes/Cd players, have a couple of spare as I like originality. CD players tempremental to say the least. The only other negative points, the original rear spoiler has been attacked by frost and will need replacing. A long time ago I had a spare car battery in the passenger foot well that spilt a little contents on carpet in front of seat causing a couple of bald spots, but hardly noticable ( I have an original spare carpet to go with and spare front shag pile mats). I have some other spares too MAF, Coilpack, PTU's etc. It also comes with it's private plate H 2XTT. Price wise I am not looking to give it away but think it must be around £4K. Please come and view to see for yourself or call Pete on 07747035677. I would rather this went to club enthusiasts than let it go on ebay.

Thanks for replies and sorry for delay in my response. You were both right connector loose on front temp sensor, looks like latches have seen better days. A spolge of hot melt glue should hold. The good news was that even with this fault I still blitzed my sons VR32 golf. I must admit my lines weren't as straight and predictable as his though!

Have recently had my car recommisioned and everything was running fine. Then all of sudden after a hot start engine seemed to surge and want to stall. Giving it a run it seemed to hesitate to boost. I have found out that the electric fan is on all the time from cold, which seems to prevent temperature to get to half way. It will still go quite well once fully warmed, but seems to faulter a little at full tilt. The only thing that I did prior to this happening was toscuff/ground the front underside apron on entering a steep long driveway. I can't see anything a miss and tried to unplug fan, but couldn't seem to find delatching technique. Any ideas please??

i am after one myself. I believe if you are after the original 90/91 shape then either Z Centre or Carmad, but I think that Carmad may have had an issue and maybe not avilable at present?? may stand corrected. Would welcome feedback as I have owned a NA Z with replacement (unknown origin) spoiler and it wasn,t very straight...

My mate had the same problem which got worse as it got colder, my SWB if left outside in winter is also not happy on cold start. In garage OK. Unfortunately my mate has no garage so sold the Z, a nice one too. Now has 350Z minter but he realises it doesn't have the same kick. I assumed it was down to weak spark somewhere? we both replaced our plugs though with no difference. He had series 2 PTU and me series 1 so that can't be the culprit?? By the way did you get my previous message? it's Pete the Z you saw in andover last weekend give us a call sometime 07747035677

Hi tried to PM you but doesn't want to play ball call me on 07747035677

twas me I'll PM you

There are a lot of propshaft past posts regarding vibration issues. I believe ( a part from knackered centre bearings) that the main cause is that the U/J's are shot. They effectively dry up, wear out and become notchy. When I last put mine into a specialist (Propsahft Services nr Heathrow) I was told joints were on back order, but that was a while ago. At the time I opted for a one piece jobby from the US. Unfortunately this still didn't totally cure the problem so I sold the car. (maybe a tired autobox and iffy drive shafts? So a proffesional propshaft recondition, balance with new centre bearing is probably the answer.

plugs have been replaced. It was running fine and then I went to floor it and it didn't go as usual, almost sounded as if was going to backfire so I backed off. That was a year ago almost and as I said decided to change PTU... I don't use it often and have owned it 10 years and covered probably less than 20K miles.

Last year my swb tt auto started to play up on full throttle. I checked connections etc and still no joy. So I purchased Series 1 & 2 PTU's. I have just got round to swopping over series 1 PTU. Everything seemed a bit better, but as soon as the temperature increased , back came the lack of horses. It seems to be a missfire, but no smoke. If I drive it gently it seems to be oKish, but then if a blip the throttle hesitance and a missfire. It ticks over allright. So maybe 2 faulty PTU's? or something else. Is there anybody near Andover who has a diagnostic set up? I would book it up with Zedworld, but I'm worried how far it would get and what damage might be incurred. I am reluctant to butcher my wiring to fit the series 2 device. I would prefer a interconnecting loom/cable. Any ideas anyone??

my light has come on from time to time. Luckilly for me it was just down to fluid level. Quite often the rubber pipe connecting the reservoir becomes loose and weeps. You should see evidence of this down the inner wing. I probably need a new pipe, but I have tightened jubilee clip over my 10 years of ownership and it seems to have held. Hopefully you may find the same?

my 91 swb TT owned since dot and largely original has the conventional rubber hangers.

I haven't a clue but they sit just right, almost flush with the arches. I bought new off Ebay- lost supplier, but I'm sure they are a major wheel supplier. Ordered just before christmas in height of back logs and came within 3 days, I think around £550 including tyres. BBS multispoke/mock split rim look nice. Shame they were not for me! I'm still on original 16"s

I can just about see old PTU and one bit of connector? I cannot see anyway of removing fixings without removing large rubber hoses? It's a TT by the way. As for adapter cable where do I get one from? Obviously the plugs and cutoff loom are from a series 2. I'll have to get round to take a picture.

I have purchased 2nd hand series 2 PTU + bracket with cut off loom. Firstly how do you get to the existing series 1 unit. Had a half hearted look and looks like plenum hoses pipes must come off but how as they seem pretty rigid. Does the series 2 unit mechanically fit to existing fixings. Also what is the difference in the wiring of connectors and fit/form etc? I was hoping to plug and play not cut up my existing loom. Also what fails on series 1 units as mine seems fine when not piping hot. Can they be fixed?

just to let you know I opted for 5mm spacers on front which left about 7-8 turns of thread, which I blelieve to be a safe margin. Any thicker and would have required longer studs.

thanks appreciate offer, but should badger wheel supplier for not supplying but deleted ebay history and my mate just wants to drive so got halfords bits tonight.

I have just got a set of new 18" BBS alloys and tyres for my mates twin turbo series 2. The rears fit ace but the fronts mis the nissan engraving on caliper by a fag paper. I was going to get a couple of spacers say 3 or 5mm but wanted to check that was OK and wouldn't cause any stress on studs. What would be the max spacer also?

I have found that the UJ's are the normal culprit, notchy /lumpy, but have not found a source to replace them. So improved things with centre bearing and gearbox mount, but still have vibes from UJ's (SAME WITH 3 Z'S NOW) where can I get them replaced? I also had a bad experience with a 1 piece new Z1 prop. Pease help...

Do you know where it is leaking from? A common leak point is from the pipe running down from the recevoir. Sometimes just needs jubilee clip tightening.

Agree with centre mount and gearbox mount, but also think that the UJ's are getting very dry/tired/lumpy which I think is a big problem. When I tried a London based prop Co they said joints were out of stock and hence prop was returned. Also tried one piece Z1 prop without success. It realy is an major issue which can send a otherwise A1 car to it's maker.

How low does it have to go before it vibrates? I have looked at mine and have 2nd hand one, they both look the same i.e not as low as the knackered one shown, probably has 8-9mm clearance between rubber and bottom.