John Dixon

235/40/18 & 255/35/18 are almost exactly the same diameter as standard. I've got 8.5" front rims, don't know if a 235 will fit an 8" ?

You need the balance pipe for pulse tuning apparently. Something to do with using the negative pressure pulses in one bank to help to pull gasses from the other bank. Dunno how much difference it makes on a V6, but when I was looking into it, it was supposed to be worth 30-40bhp on a 7.4 chevvy. Then again, maybe not as important on turbo'd motors.

I think the correct one is PFR6B-11B. I've got C's in mine and had no problems, but then again not got mental mods. NGK said the difference was a 'minor change in firing end construction' Seem to remember reading that the tip on B's protrudes slightly more into the chamber, so may ignite better ?

Sorted :D Biggest bugger is putting the springs back on the shoes to be honest - seem to need about 6 hands to hold it all together.

Just realised above reply makes a bit more sense if you know that the bearing comes in one piece with a cast housing (the bit with the bolt holes in it).

Harve, wheel bearing not too tough. Basically bolts through hub from back. If you loosen off the main hub nut on the end of the CV joint, you can push the shaft back enough to give access to the bolts (they're covered by the CV joint). Saves having to take the driveshaft out. Seem to remember there being a really tight 32mm nut on the back that goes into the retaining post for the brake shoes, but I can't remember if you need that one off for the bearing. The main problem is trying to press the hub out of the bearing - it's a very difficult shape to support, especially on a smallish press - worth trying a local engineering shop, as they're likely to have a big emough press to do it. The 10 ton one I had wouldn't.

I've got Uniroyal Rainsport 1's on mine. Found the grip amazing in both wet and dry, cheap too. They also won some wet handling test autocar did recently, dunno what the competition was though!

Have you checked the bottom ball joint and kingpin bearings? Would have thought it's unlikely that shocks would clunk. Subframe bolts do sound like a good thing to check - they always came loose on my 205.

Nice :D guess I'll have to get one now - doing my clutch in the next few weeks (hopefully)

Mine's hidden behind one of the wheel arch shields. Might be worth a look.

Was there any downside to the lightened flywheel, like loss of smoothness at low speed / rough idle etc ?

I went for BBS LM's. Quite pricey but I love 'em http://www.300zx.co.uk/rides/john_dixon/index.htm

Oh well, can't be right all the time!! Just checked my wheels, the fronts are 30mm and I've never had any buffing at all. I'm not the John Dixon you knew, I've never owned a 200SX. Went from a 205 to a 300.

Anyone know if you can chenge the rear wheel studs without pressing the hub out of the bearing. Sure it'll be obvious when the disk's off but I can't be arsed looking at the mo.

From memory: PCD = 114.6mm Centre bore = 60mm Offset (front) = 30mm on 8.5x18 Offset (rest) = 42mm on 9.5x18 Just watch the rear offset. You can probably go to 45-50mm on a 9.5 without problems, but a 55mm offset will catch the lower wishbone slightly on full compression. Guess it depends on the exact shape of the rim as well

Sounds pretty good. I paid £500 for full stainless 2.25" system from cats back from GPS.