matt

taken from another forum :) The "Pigeon" mod is to remove any dump valve and just let the compressor surge when you close the throttle. You can run like this but the damage is cumulative and I shall try to expalin why. When you spec a turbo (and by spec here I don't mean select one froma website I mean have meetings with the turbo manufacturer who is about to commit a production line to your specific turbo application for the OEM you are developing the engine for) you do a number of tests to develop the application. From basic power curve work to develop the appropriate turbine/compressor spec to altitude and high temperature work. When I talk about testing a turbo, I'm also talking about a fully instrumented unit and that means a minimum of mass flow, pressure and temperature in and out for both the compressor and turbine as well as a slew of other parameters including turbo speed. All of the above are analysed and among other things all the pressures across the device are analysed. This allows the overall thrust on the turbo shaft to be calculated which will determine the design and life of the turbocharger thrust bearing. This is why the aftermarket does hybrids (big comps on small turbines while the OEMs do not, at least in volume production at any rate) as the imbalance in the sizes of both items causes excessive thrust bearing loads. So now you're sitting there saying why the hells he going on about thrust bearings??? Well, when a turbo is at full boost and spinning the pressure is as balanced (exhaust side to inlet side) as we can get it at the design stage so that the load on the thrust bearing is kept to the design amount. Now hen you take your foot off, two things happen: 1) the pressure in the inlet rises very sharply indeed. 2) the exhaust pressure rapidly fall to nothing. You can see where I'm going with this now can't you? SO TRANSIENTLY, we have a very high thrust bearing load spike. Now this won't kill your turbo immediately but IT WILL shorten the life of the turbo. Your man two posts up whose turbo died very shortly after he did this mod is right: that extra movement in the shaft caused by the additional shock thrust loads will have caused the piston ring seal in the turbine to run on parts of the shaft it hadn't run before and that will have hastened it's demise. But surely Dump valves prevent comp blades falling off? Old wives tale!! Seen any rally cars with a dump valve? No. F1 engines? No. The reason most comp wheels fail is foreign object damage or overspeeding. A recirculation valve (proper name) is there to add durability to the turbo thrust bearing in much the same way that a water jacket aids the life of the bearings by preventing oil coking. If you stop the water flow by removing the pipework or remove the RV to add noises, the turbo won't die. But You WILL shorten it's life. On and while I'm on a hobby horse: Externally venting DVs: 1) They make your car drive like crap 2) You sound like a tw*t 3) You will kill your cat and 4) I can guarantee you that a car making funny noises does not loosen the knicker elastic of the girl you are trying to impress....... :rolleyes: _____________

sorted it out now

hi guys how do i pay it again i carnt remember :)

yea spose thats true and i have a brandnew rear lip that i got off you :tt2: to sell lol and a chipped ecu

hello murt long time how are you ? and what my car or stella's old 1 ?

nah i carnt be botherd with it anymore lol how u gettin on with stella's old car ?? you can only sell if your a subscribed member im just seeing if there is enough interest in the car for me to subscribe again to sell the bits or not the wheels will require new tyres as the back 2 are below what is legal i did buy a second hand one that will go with the wheels and the front tyres i put on my s14a the wheels arnt in bad condition but there not brand new !!! the interior is all good apart from the drivers bulster when i find out what people want i will join and give you prices :)

ohh i took the full exhaust off aswell to take the turbos off and start working on it and i got a cross over middle box for it but thats as far as i got as i lost interest in it and i have sold one side of the back boxes but i have got a pair of stainless steel decat pipes

:thumbup: yep your right mate well thats what was wrong with it when i parked it up last year it dont look as good as that now btw and it has different wheels on :) was a really nice car when it was working but i wanna sell up and get a nice audi or bmw summit like that so they have togo :yes: here is a couple of pictures of what it looks like now :)

ohhhh and its manual !!!

haha look at my garage :P its a series 1 g reg imported in 2003 lwb twin turbo gold in colour tan leather interior staggerd alloys with 245/40/18 on the front and 285/30/18 on the back

hello some of you may remember me from a while ago i still own my zed but gave up on here and got a s14a instead that i have been using for a while :) but after being in a car chrash on the 23rd i think its time that i sold the s14a and also break my 300 the only problem is that i dunno if its worth joining again and putting up a breaking thread as there might not be anybody interested in bits from my car so is there anybody interested if so then i will pay to join again and put up a thread hope everybody is well :)

hello people bit off topic but i rekon you would be the man to ask !!! i have been workin on a mk1 fiat punto gt so its got the 1.4 turbo engine in i have just done a engine change to a uprated engine i also put a big front mount intercooler on aswell so its all rebuilt up now and its only got -10 ingh instead of -20 and the turbo is not boosting up but it is spooling up coz i can hear it and there is blue smoke from the exhaust when i had the turbo off i checked the shaft and there was a tiny bit of left right play but no in out movment at all any ideas ???

ive been there not a bad place and his company car is a rover metro :)

if you go over the bridge then round the corner to where that triangle thing is in the road just go past there and its on the right where he lives :) as for meeting up sometime sounds good but not this week as im at wrk untill next monday now :( would be nice to see your car and also give me some inthusaum to fix mine back up :)

haha yea got love for it again and i carnt see it causing that much more damage as the turbo is allready fooked and needs changing anyway even if i never used it again it would still be the same !!! the only thing that may be getting damaged is the 6th cylinder bore as its only pushing out 90psi so i will need tobe honed anyway :) also i drove the car for about 4 months before doing a compression test and finding out about the cylinder so after a maximum of a possible 4 thousand miles with the engine the way it is i really cannot see there being alot more damage i can do :) :) but never mind :)

for that exact reason its fooked so why should i care about any damage as its alleady been done so foook it :)

ahhh i see sounds like ur nearly there now :) my car has got really low compression on cylinder 6 and the drivers side turbo is foooked :( and no exhaust at all as i didnt like it i have brought a new exhaust for it and a couple of little bits and peices im just saving up for the new turbos and an engine rebuild not a cheap fix unfortinatly :( but never mind its not hurting where it is and soon it will be a classic car lol

u cud use a tyre with air in and cut 2 bike tyre pump things in half so u have to screw on ends if u needed to :)

ahhh cool did u buy it with no engine then mate?

yea thats the one looks good mate !!!! my mate lives at bloomfield close just round the corner :)

whats wrong with your two ?

haha thats brilliant hope he is ok tho :)

as we all no theese cars are a love hate kinda thing i havent moved the car for a while and as my cousin is here visiting i thought id get her going again totally abused it tbh but i loved it so much i was shaking when i got out i just want it back on the road again now but still got no money to fix her up lol oh well the day will come and no doubt about a week later when something else breaks i will hate it again haha :tongue:

i saw a white zed on the a1 the other week and no reply on my post so good luck with yours mate

and the rest if your interested Z32 300ZX TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Z32 300ZX cutaway drawing from the book "Nissan 300ZX" by Manuel Vigliani. (Originally produced as a center fold, hence the line down the middle) The Z32 model 300ZX was introduced in 1989 and was an instant hit. Motor Trend named it the imported "car of the year", while Car and Driver named it "one of the worlds 10 best cars". The 300ZX mates a powerful engine with excellent road holding qualities and safety, and enough luxury to tempt the most jaded executive in need of an express. Power is provided by twin turbochargers, which require much less spool-up time that comparably powerful single-turbo set ups. The 300ZX also features HICAS 4 wheel steering, the Targa roof which has become a feature of Z-Cars, 4 valves per cylinder, DOHC, massive brakes and advanced technology, along with Nissan's justly famous quality. The technical specifications presented here are for the 2+2 Targa Twin-Turbo, in European Specification form. The VG30DETT twin-turbocharged and twin intercooled 3.0 liter V6. 5spd Manual transmission 4spd Auto transimission ENGINE:Type:VG30DETTPosition:Front logtitudinal Cylinder number and disposition:6 V60° Crank case and cylinder head materials:Cast iron, light alloyCrankshaft:upon 4 bearingsBore and stroke:87 X 83mm (3.425 X 3.268 inch)Piston displacement:2960 cc (180.62 cu in)Compression ratio: 8.5:1Max BHP :283 bhp at 6400 rpmDistribution:4 valves per cylinder, double over head camshaftFuel system:Mulitpoint electronic injection, twin turbochargersIgnition:Nissan Direct Ignition System (NDIS) firing order 123456 spark plugs PFR6B11 DRIVETRAIN:Drive: rear-wheel drive, swinging halfshaft, viscous coupling limited slip differentialGearbox:type RS5R30A 5 speed manual with double cone synchronizer; type RE4RO3A 4-speed automaticGear ratios: Manual: Automatic: 1st: 3.214 1st: 2.784 2nd: 1.925 2nd: 1.544 3rd: 1.302 3rd: 1.000 4th: 1.000 4th: 0.694 5th: 0.752 Rev: 2.275 Rev: 3.369 final drive: 3.692 FRAMEType and Material:unitized monocoque, steel panels plated with zinc-nickelCar body: 2+2 hatchback, fully removable T-Bar roofFront and Rear suspensions:independent wheels, "Multilink" systemBrakes:Front ventilated discs OPZ25V type, 4 piston caliper; rear, ventilated discs OPZ11VB type 2 piston caliper. ABS systemSteering system: 4 wheel steering; front wheels: rack and pinion with speed sensitive power assist. Rear wheels: super HICAS with phase reversal controlWheels:Front: 16 X 7.5 JJ 1 Rear 16 X 8.5 JJ 2 Tyres:Front: 225/50 ZR 16 Rear 245/45 ZR 16Cooling systems: water, oil, tranmission-oil, differential-oil, double intercooler DIMENSIONS AND CAPACITIES:Length:4525 mm (178 in)Width:1800 mm (70.9 in)Height:1255 mm (49.4 in)Wheelbase:2570 mm (101.2 in)Front and rear tracks:1495-1555 mm Kerb weight: 1585 kg (3494 lbs)Lubrication system (engine):4.4 lt Cooling system (engine):10 ltFuel tank:72 lt (15.8 imp. gall.)Luggage:326 lt (11.4 cubic feet) PERFORMANCE:Top speed: 250 kp/h (155.4 mph) US version 153 mphAcceleration:0-100 km/h 6 sec 0-1000m 25.3 secPick-up (in V gear from 70 to 180 km/h)27.1 sec Braking distance (140km/h)76.3 m (250.3 ft)Fuel consumption: 90 km/h 8.3 lt/100 km 120 km/h 10.5 lt/100 kmPower to weight ratio:5.6 kgs/bhp SYSTEMS:: HICAS: HICAS stands for Hich Capacity Activly-Controlled Suspension, which is as fine an example of motor-industry nomenclature as I have ever seen. What it actually means, is that the 300ZX is fitted with 4-wheel steering. Four wheel steering was first developed in the 1930's for military vehicles, as it made them much more maneuverable, and allowed them to turn in confined spaces. Such systems where expensive, and never made it onto production cars. However, the Japanese became interested in the idea of 4-wheel steering, and continued to experiment with it. Nissan's Super-HICAS system is an electronically controlled electrohydraulic system, as opposed to the simpler mechanical system. It was felt that the more complex system offered a better result than the simpler mechanical linkage. In a mechanical system, the rear wheels turn with the front wheels at the same rate. Using HICAS, however, an electronic control unit takes data from the steering wheel, and front wheels, and together with the car's current speed and other parameters, decides on the angle to which the rear wheels should turn. The rear wheels are then turned via a hydraulic cylinder. All of this happens instantly, and the system will constantly reposition the rear wheels for optimum effect, steering them either in the same, or the opposite direction to the front wheels depending on the situation. The HICAS system is superior to the mechanical system in that it provides faster, more reliable response, improves stability on curves, and eliminates abnormal car behavior during rapid direction changes such as those encountered in emergency situations. The HICAS system contains an emergency fail safe which locks the rear wheels in the standard fore-and-aft position if anything goes wrong, effectively turning the car back into a two-wheel steering system. Mulitlink suspension : Nissan developed the Multilink suspension system specifically for the 300ZX, but it's success led it to be introduced to other Nissan models. The suspension geometry is defined by an upper, two part triangle which extends the ideal upper-fulcrum hinge-axis point outward. This serves to reduce wheel toe-in variations during acceleration and braking. The rotation fulcrum angle of the triangle which is lower with respect to the axle line works together with the inner bushings and lower auxiliary strut. This means that the side loads imposed when cornering, and longitudinal loads from braking and accelerating increase the toe-in of the outside wheel, improving steering and rear-end stability. This system is fitted to both the front and rear, allowing the forces generated to be assimilated by both front and rear wheels, and converted to corresponding reactions which correct the cars attitude. Having the front and rear suspension work together in this manner increases stability and steering accuracy. The mechanical nature of this system makes it more reliable than hydraulic or hydrogas systems which produce similar effects.