greg

LOL stella, been on about another motor for time haha

Happy birthday doooode ;)

M/T gearbox and bolts M/T propshaft check bearing for play or re-order a new one M/T flywheel +8bolts spigot release bearing clutch fork slave cylinder custom goodridge hose or fit stock OEM manual pipework clutch clutch pedal brake pedal or cut auto pedal to size and fit manual brake rubber. clutch booster gearknob, upper gator and lower rubber gator Gearshift linkage Recomended parts to replace for new Rear crank oil seal clutch clutch bolts and washers release bearing spigot gearbox fluid linkage bushes HTH

haha spank off

She said you were as much use as a cock flavoured lollipop! ;)

Nah 3 and no more!!!

Parts required IMO Timing belt kit if not already carried out recently? include waterpump oil/filter/coolant Crank oil seal sealent pump, gasket sometimes as mentioned the lower sprocket can be an arse, so you may need a replacement one if it wont budge of the woodruff key. A small air grinder works well.

If you must, the following will be required Removal of timing belt, so follow a 60k service guide via courtousy Z Remove lower crank sprocket sometimes needs to be cut off and replaced! remove oil seal jack up vehicle and place on axle stands with plenty of clearence, idealy a 2 post ramp is beneficial. Engine supported via hoist or similar Disconnect turbo return feeds, disconnect oil cooler hose and plug, drop crossmember to get pan out from underneath. Access to oil sieve return is now accessable unbolt and remove from block. undo 5x10mm bolts to front of oil pump and gently pry away and off crank. Pay special attention to not damage the crank or mating surface. Replace pump with gasket sealent, new crank oil seal. torque evenly Refit oil return pipe to block. New sealent required between seal of pipe. Refit sump, plus gaskets at both ends. Make sure the mating surface has had all the old sealent scraped and cleaned away, apply a neat bead of sealent around the sump, have someone place the sump in position with you as its a fiddle on your own underneath the vehicle.Do up bolts on opposite fashion to being sump in evenly, work in a criss cross style. Refit turbo, oil cooler hoses.New filter Evenly tighten crossmember. Remove hoist or form off engine support Refit new timing belt and NEW tensioner follow reverse fitting of a 60k service guide. refil with new oil, make sure you have checked everything including oil level. Start car and let idle until up to temp. turn off and recheck oil level. Check oil pressure, but dont go by the stock z sender as its pants. If your worried about pressure get an aftermarket one installed and taped in to the line somewhere, namely the pants oem position. defi or greddy are well made and relible. Iv not worked on a Z for a while so i may of missed something, but everything above is required Greg

i prefer slow dafyd

I would do a FAQ if enough people were interested.

cheers guys LMAO

If there are any one you would like to kill now is the time before the slabs go down ;)

some great songs over they years Burn baby burn Y

Great actor RIP mr newman.

^^ Thats what makes it worse!!

yeh it is

Put some sellotape over the battery cover no more rubber grip dude. Just looks tacky ;)

man from experiance speaking ^^:tongue:

your signture should say RIMMER IN MIRROR :mac1::D:slap:

PCP For sure! She slapped that lightweight copper like she was a piece of paper LMAO Crazy bitch went under the side of an arctic like a horse to water haha

Sweet theres a whore in there somewhere.? lol

how about pauls garden! Could play musical chairs? or pass the parcel, Perhaps wrap up heater matrix's or brake pads as prezzies. :)

dont take the dash out for gods sake. get on your back and get in under the footwell lol forgot how many iv done! hey up si ;)

well done stu glad you made it out the tunnel in the end (What a long ****ing tunnel though?! lol)

Was it happy hour?:smash: