Spartan-117

43 - 50 (4.4 - 5.1, 32 - 37) N.m (kg-m, ft-lb) for the two seater turbo, but it should be around the same for most of the models

Hi all, Just refitted my gearbox after changing the clutch but im not sure its working correctly. SHould the drive shaft (seen form the back of the gearbox where the propshaft connects) always be spinning? It seems to stop when i put the clutch down which i assume is correct just need a little help on this as i'm physically and mentally broken after getting the gearbox back on Cheers

thanks, will get some on order. When I did the s13 i had to get a garage to press it out in the end but fingers crossed for the Z

is it the same ball joint as the hicas one, its the only one i could find: https://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php/click-here-for-parts/suspension-steering/300zx-rear-nissan-oem-outer-track-rod-ball-joint

struggling to find the info, so appologies in advance 300zx manual tt (1992) Have play in the rear wheels and was planning to replace the lower ball joints on the arm, but I cant find any info if they can be replaced or not. On my old s13 it was always just replace the ball joint. do i have to but the whole arm or can the ball joint be replaced?? its this part:

Evening all, After a year getting my car back together and before its maiden voyage, the clutch is behaving strange!! when the engine is OFF, the car will select gear no problem. When the engine is ON, the clutch goes super loose and i cant get into gear (the pedal does not get stuck to the floor btw). All fluid levels are ok. Car has been sitting for several months. Any help would be much appreciated, was hoping to go for a drive tomorrow

yes thats correct, 0 to 0. When I first lined it up, it looked right to the pictures I had seen which is why I got confused. Fisicly checking the piston TDC was a big help to get it right. I have changed the timing belt before, so I dont know why I messed it up this time!!

all sorted now after talking to jeff from zworld. He said to stick a long screw driver down the sparkplug hole on cylinder 1 so I could see where tdc was when I turned the crank and it turned out the lower crank was not lined up as well as I thought :(. After I reset the timing belt with the aid of the screw driver the main pulley marks lined up correctly. Thanks to jeff and u guys for the help

took the covers off and the main pulley again. the marks all line up as they should so i'm now really confused if the main pulley should be -10 out from 0??

Yes thats with the woodruff key installed. I use the premarked lines to get the timing position right, this includes checking the cams and the pulley marks. I then count the teeth between as spec'ed in the manual. I amumed that the main pulleys 0 mark would line up with the marks on the lower timing belt cover and so was shocked to find the pulley over ( after using the woodruff key)!!! Just wanted to get some assuance before fitting the other stuff back on

just aligned the timing belt and put the main pully back on, but have noticed the main pully mark sitting at around -10 degrees from the 0 mark. Not sure if this is correct or not, I was hopping not to have to strip down the engine front again !! ps. all the belt timing marks were lined up before I put the pully back on cheers

yep tried tthe t-cut with no result, got some anti scratch stuff so i may give that a try

last week my car was covered in tree pollen, was busy so i only had time to jet spray most of the pollen off and dame it don't half stick!! this week end got round to cleaning it proper only to find the pollen has some how eaten into the paint making it look like there's fine speckles of dirt over it. To top it off I only had the rear of the car resprayed late last year :cursing: (was starting to wonder if the bloke just used water colors to paint the car!) so if your car is pollen;ed to **** clean it immediately

found the noise. I was the old down pipe leaking though its cover, just glad it was nothing more serious

yes the noise is present wit the clutch down. Will have to wait for the weekend (and dry weather) to try the aircon pully, have to work :(

yes the noise is present wit the clutch down. Will have to wait for the weekend (and dry weather) to try the aircon pully, have to work :(

not sure why this happens m8, think the engine pumps in more fuel at startup and if you stall it floods the system. glad ur all fixed :)

its the chatter noise in the first few seconds of the video thats the issue

that`s the wired thing, you cant hear the noise from the front of the engine bay

not sure if this is the same issue but have a look just in case http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?155686-non-starting-z-(newbie)

hello, got a bit of a odd noise When the car is running I get a chattering/ticking noise, linked with the engine revs. I can`t hear the sound when i`m looking over the engine or from the rear of the car. It seems loudest on the driver side. I checked the exhaust for leaks and it does have a couple of small leaks but I cant here the ticking from the leaks when i`m under the car... so I`m a bit stuck on what to check next... took a video of it http://s439.photobucket.com/user/LunaWolf-117/media/DSCF1023.mp4.html http://s439.photobucket.com/user/LunaWolf-117/media/DSCF1023.mp4.html

does the top have to be threaded,I thought it was like the door mounts with just a bolt going through a hole and a nut on the other side. didnt have time for a good look though

Has anyone done any guides for this. I wanted to move the front seatbelts to the pillar but i can find the lower anchor point? :no:

perfect thanks Andrew, was really unsure about the front adjustment

some silly questsions :drool: I've got the stock replacement KYBs on the car with standard shock but I've no idea how the damper setting works (they were on the car when I picked it up) 1. I take it the higher the number selected, the harder the ride? 2. How do you adjust the front setting properly. Do you turn the pot on top of the turret by pushing the pot downwards? or just turn it without pressing it down (not sure) thx