RomChip200

The problem is I don't manage to remove the arm joint I want to replace ! How did you finally remove yours ?? And as I torched it, now the ball joint is no more tight with the socket, huge play ! I'm obliged to replace it. I want to keep HICAS. I think I'll try to grind a bit the rod end to be able to put a larger 17mm spanner... I'm not confident.

I managed to remove one side, obviously the one which has been already changed on my car .... I don't manage to remove the other one, completely stuck. I put a 17mm wrench on the other side on the "width accross flats" rod end but it starts to splip and to crush it !! If I continue, my rod end will smash. I put a ton of WD40, I torched it, it doesn't come loose. Any help ?

6320.140A : Why is it 6320.140, more than 6319.140 ? Does the 'A' mean something for the European model ?

Eibach sells 2 part # for the 300zx pro-kit in US : US Turbo : 6320.140 US NA : 6319.140 As everybody knows, US turbo model is a 2-seaters US NA is a 2+2 Eibach doesn't make a kit for Europe. The overall weight and weight balance is clearly not the same on our EURO Turbo 2+2 than on US models. Which part # do you use on our Euro cars ?

Because I checked the depth before by using a small pin and inserting it carefully.

I need the point of view of experts. I did some research on old posts, without success. Maybe it's a normal behavior, but it seems strange to me. FYI, my oil sending unit is completely new, I drilled a bigger hole in it (about 1.2mm), without damaging it of course ! It means I can see the oil pressure fluctuations more quickly. When starting from cold, the oil pressure rises up to 7kg/cm2, no problem. Then, I start to drive the car, the oil pressure stands between 4 and 6 and as soon as the rev goes above 3000 (let's say about 3000), the oil pressure drops to 0 (a true 0 !) and as soon as the rev goes down below 3000, it's between 4 and 6 again. This phenomen occurs during, let's say, 1 minute only, not more. When warm or pretty warm, I get 4 or more when driving and 2 at idle, no problem and no oil pressure drop when warm. Another question, is there an oil restrictor (or whatever) in the return line coming from the front oil cooler and going to the pan ??? Some people tell yes, some no and it seems to depend on the 300zx version, european or not. As for me, I didn't find this restrictor when I rebuilt the engine but I added one (about a hole of 4mm) thinking the oil will stay a bit more in the cooler for a better efficiency but is there any drawback to do that ?

To understand how the air ducts are fitted, the metal tabs on the steering column and so on ...

That's the reverse : As soon as you switch on the low beams, high and low beams share the same +12V power supply (come from the headlights relays after the 15A fuses). The switch between both is performed by switching the ground thanks to the dimmer relay. What you want to do for HID to keep them on when flashing on high beam : simply don't use the ground (black wire) provided by the std connector (then you use the switched +12V only) but ground your HID ballast to the body ground. FYI, some ballasts are sensitive to the voltage drop when you switch on your high beam (instantaneous current drawn), then check carefully the fuses contacts are not corroded. I had this problem, one of the ballasts switched off as soon as I switched on the high beam due to the instantaneous voltage drop.

Will do also for some Tokico Illumina.

"It will switch to sports mode above a certain speed to improve handling." Where is the proof of that !?

You should have quickly noticed the 26 signal is in fact the input 1 which corresponds to parking brake signal (which is required also for HICAS mngt) and 27 is 6 which is simply the power supply from ignition. This solenoid control unit has only one link : the handbrake signal, that's all. And the interest of making stiffer the rear shocks when handbrake is triggered is not still solved. I agree with GIO, it's unbelievable.

Eric, (I'm the elctronic guy on ztech.net) You say that because I managed to get 170 on #4 after having added oil 2 times and only 155 on #5 ? I definitively have some oil residues on #5 exhaust track, what would be the link with a valve problem ? Thanks.

Euh, sorry, why ? That's the direct translation of the french word ...

As the US guys are very loquacious, I make a try with you ..... :D Here is the follow-up of this long story : Part 1 : http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=871799 Part 2 : http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=878788 I performed a compression test several times with ENGINE COLD, the results : (I added half a coffee spun of oil for 2nd and 3th attempts) #1 : 160psi > 175 #2 : 175psi > no other try (to keep it dry) #3 : 160psi > no other try (to keep it dry) #4 : 140psi > 155 > 170 #5 : 135psi > 145 > 155 #6 : 160psi > 175 I cannot perform it with engine warm. I removed too much stuff arounf the engine (passenger turbo, radiator, some belts ....) #5 has definitively a problem but #4 should also whereas I had no smoke on driver side .... I performed a leakdown test also, I just have an air compressor though. I listen at the dipstick location, I didn't notice any difference between the differents cylinders, even the #5 didn't seem to leak more than the others. I applied 5 bars, compressor off, and it required more than 1 minute to loose 0.5 bar ... it doesn't leak so much then .... Any advice ?

I removed the exhaust manifold and the spark plugs (fitted 2 months ago) yesterday. Both cylinders #1 and #3 are fine (exhaust ports show carbon deposit only) Cylinder #5 is the one which leaks. The exhaust port is completely covered with oil. I noticed the spark plug porcelain shows some oily trace on one side only. If I put my finger in the exhaust port, it's more oily at the back of the engine, it would mean it's an exhaust valve which leaks ? It didn't leak (as far as I remember, there was no smoke) 8 months ago and I ran the car at idle only since. What would it do leak an exhaust valve so quickly ? If I look to the top of the piston through the spark plug hole, it doesn't seem to be so oily compared to the others one. Another important fact : according to the state of the gasket (carbon deposit outside), the exhaust manifold had a leak on the cylinder #5 and the area all around the gasket is covered with some sprayed oil dirt. Could be a cause of an oil leak from the exhaust valves ?

Anyone has already got its exhaust manifold completely cooked/stuck/covered with dry oil deposit ??? That's not carbon deposit.

I cannot perform a compression test at the moment, the car is on jack stands, and too much stuff is removed (I know, I would have to do it before dismantling the turbo, the belts and so on). I changed all the PCV hoses at the back + front of the engine + PCV valves with new ones 2 months ago, it didn't improve the situation. I may check quickly if some are blocked by applying air pressure. Is it a relevant test ? Only the passenger tail pipe smokes like hell (remember, no H pipe) ... Smoke is white/grey and thick and smells burnt oil. What are the consequencies of running the car for long idling periods on the oil system (as I did it the last 8 months) ? Exhaust manifold is really covered inside with thick oil deposit. I will remove it this week.

I removed the passenger turbo because I got tons of white smoke at idle (oil burnt smell). What I discovered doesn't make me happy, the exhaust track is completely fully covered with oil cooked, that's not the rear turbo seal which leaks (perhaps it leaks also) but the oil comes from the cylinders !! I haven't removed the exhaust manifold yet (full of oil cooked). On the pics, don't take care of the oily crap outside of the turbo, it's ATF fluid residue, a power steering problem solved. Last time I removed all the spark plugs, the left and right ones didn't look different but all were covered with oil deposit. Only the passenger tail pipe smoked like the hell at idle (no H pipe). I changed the PCVs 2 months ago, the old ones were st uck. BUT I ran the car a lot of time at idle the last 8 months because the car stands in my garage and I had several others troubles to solve, then it means the amount of oil sucked could be higher than normal driving. The back of the plenum had oil as a lot of Zs (on each side). I put new spark plugs 2 months ago, I will check if one is more oily than the others to identify cylinder failure. Can it be the driver side front turbo seal which leaks oil, the oil is sucked by combustion chamber and cooks the passenger exhaust manifold ?? Last time I checked, I had no blowby gas (through oil cap), then it cannot be valves stem seals. It may be worn rings ..... I didn't performed a compression test, and cannot do it now (a lot of stuff removed) In fact I bought the car last August and when I got it, there was no smoke. Since September, I didn't drive the car, I fixed some other problems (power steering rack leaking ...), the car stands in my garage but I ran it a lot at idle (I consumed almost one full tank at idle !) to diagnose it with consult and so on and to try to be sure about the source of the smoke. One time, when I accelerated gently from idle, my ear on the engine, I heard a slight scraping noise around the battery, I thought it was a turbo wheel scraping the housing. Now, I can tell the turbo wheel doesn't touch the housing but there's some axial play, I can feel it with my fingers.