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Is there a harmonic balancer on the Zed? If so, does the underdrive pulley replace it? or does it stay on the engine with only the pulley being replaced? If the balancer comes off- doesn't that have a detrimental effect on the engine? Leonard

Justin, I've purchased a few things for my Z from the US ( KYB adj shocks, springs, full polybush set, strut bars, Drilled discs, adj upper arms front & rear, rose jointed tension rods, dual pop intake kit, short shifter, iridium plugs, set of roof/ door seals) I've bought from a few dealers either direct or through eBay. I've only had a problem with one item which had to be exchanged.- and it is a bleedin long way to take things back! (it took months of p-ing about) But you pay your money and take your choice. The shipping generally isn't too expensive. ($80 for a set of 4 shocks, $56 for polybush set) however get several quotes from several dealers if using eBay as some of them offering very low priced goods do so because they charge more for shipping than actual cost, and there are several dealers selling the same items on eBay. In my experience duty/VAT isn't charged on every package that it should when entering UK. I've had duty/VAT charged on a few of my items (however I still factor it into the price when comparing UK/USA) If you ask a dealer to mark down the value on paperwork and you have an insurance claim for missing goods, you might only get the value marked on the shipping doc. The dealer might refuse to deal with you, and some mark the value down as a matter of course. (The reputable ones don't- Courtesy/ Z1 etc) It's worth remembering that if you do ask and they do it, there is a risk- it's not legal. Some of the prices are very difficult to come close to in UK and some stuff is better bought in UK. I agree with Smithy- I'd rather deal local than try claiming warranty etc with a co. thousands of miles away. If I have a problem with any of the parts I've bought, then basically it's tough luck. I bought most of my parts before I joined the forum (and after I approached my local perf parts dealer who was not interested enough in £2K+ worth of business to do any discount from list on anything) If you can afford it (by the way, a £30 or £40 saving is soon forgotten if you find yourself waiting 2+ months for a part) I'd stick to the dealers here good luck Leonard

Thanks for the replies, Do you know where I can have the chip/ ECU "Read" to find out what it's set-up for etc? Also- what is the purpose of the ACS unit (I assume it does a similar job to an apxi AFR for example- I don't know what that does either !) Thanks for your help Leonard

Wonder if anyone can help. I have a jap 92 TT. I bought from a guy who owned it 5 years, but knew very little about it technically. It was imported with a few mods. HKS drager exh, HKS intake/ HKS Turbo timer/ blitz bovs/ lowered suspension and an electronic gadget called "ACS Air/Flow conditioner system" the brand is "Pivot"- never heard of it. Anyway- the guy had it disconnected, said it was causing some problem (it may have been det'ing- though I don't know) The 2 core cable from it goes to the ECU-. it's been disconnected from the controller unit and the ends twisted together, when I seperate the ends the engine stops. Has anyone any idea what this thing is- ?I've attached a poor photo. On the front of the unit is a power button and an adjuster knob marked "VOL %" it's gradiated -10, -6, 0, +6, +10 Also, I opened the ECU and it is socketed but the only label on the chip is an OE Mitsubishi electronics label. there is a hand written ticket on the outside of the ECU marked MC8. Anyone got any idea if this is an aftermarket chip? I'd welcome any help Thanks Leonard

Adam, I dug this up in a search. Did you get the dual intake set up installed? If so, did it make any difference and does it require a new chip or a re-map? Thanks Leonard

Hi- I got it in "motor World", I think they're a national chain. If you have trouble getting it, either look up Comma car care on the net and give them a call and ask who stocks it, or give me a shout I'll get some and post it to you Leonard

John- I think the most vulnerable area is about 2" at either end of the short seal above the side window glass. I reckon that on mine the water was running off the side of the targa panel and onto the seal and seeping down the back of the seal and travelling along the stainless steel channel which holds the seal. Then eventually dripping in at the roof joint. It's a couple of weeks now and there's been plenty rain, it's still dry. Good luck, i hope you get it cured. L

Anyone on here been jailed yet for goin that fookin fast?....... On a public road?

Anyone on here been jailed yet for goin that fookin fast?

Hi John, Ifitted them 2 weeks ago and they leaked. I was P'd off. I then spent a bit of time adjusting them on the targa panels, there's a slight fore & aft adjustment, and they were much much better..... though not bone dry! I then bought some "seek & seal" for windscreens etc. It's a clear fluid, comes in a container a bit like 3 in 1 oil. It's supposed to find leaks etc in rubber seals and - seal them. I'm sure the water was creeping behind the seal in getting in ( capillary action- /I think). It definitely wasnt getting in between the joints at the roof/ targa panels. Anyway- the roof is now sealed!!- I have had the panels on + off a few times since and after a good hosing, followed by 7 hours of rain- no leaks at the roof at all- success!....... well almost!. Although the roof is dry/sealed, and so are the door openings, I found a drip appearing inside the LH A- pillar/ hinge pillar. I think it is either coming in one of the holes at the bottom of the screen pillar, where the roof seal is studded on, or possibly at the hinge. As most of the interior is already stripped out, I'm just going to take the dash casing out and find it once and for all. I'll do the heater matrix while it's all out- just as a precaution. Is there anything else I should think about replacing while the dash is stripped out? So.... almost so far so good. The targa panels now need a fair bit of pressure on them when locking- the old seals were quite compressed. I'll keep you posted L

John- heartache! The leaks were just pi**ing me off and after reading your notes, I contacted courtesy and ordered the full set. The cost was $500 USD, $60 shipping and £70 UK duty/VAT. I know it's a lot (though about half the best UK price)but the car's almost useless if it's constantly damp inside. I will fit in couple of days and hopefully be drier. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks John, I read your previous posts about your sealing problems and I too tried a few of the remedies I saw mentioned, white grease, submerging in nut oil etc but still i got a regular drip from the targa joint at the front outside edge where the door glass sits. I bought a full set of roof and door seals - 6 pieces so I hope that will go a long way to curing it. How many seals did you replace and where was the water coming in on yours? Leonard

Anyone?- what should I avoid or look out for when fitting these? Are they straightforward enough to fit?... and one other question- from your experiences- has anyone replaced the seals and continued to have leaks? L

Hi, I'm about to replace all of the seals around the targas and the doors too. Before i go gung-ho! (and probably learn some expensive lessons) has anyone done this before, and have you any tips & advice please? (do they mount dry or is sealant used etc?) Thanks Leonard

the price I paid (£302) is fully comp, and a 2nd car, I would assume that if it was an only car, the premium could be higher, though it's worth asking the insurers

Hi- I use Houghton - FAB! £302 (12.5% discount for being a 300zx.co.uk member) 2nd car. Classic policy, 5000mls/pa garaged, 92 jap TT, manual, mods- Intake, exhaust, chip, boost controller & T/timer, suspension and brake u/grades. 38 yrs old, clean licence.

Hi Smithy & Eric, Thanks for the advice, i saw the pipes for sale and thought "just the job!" However, I don't want to get into removing the engine, chances are I'll find other "interesting" things that I'll want to do and hey presto! time passes and I have an "Unfinished project" out of a good roadworthy car. I really appreciate the help, I'll put it in my longer term plan! Thanks Leonard

Thanks- .. I cant tell if mine's making more or less...... but it's well fast enough to make me grin when I give it some stick!..... however..... I'd still love to know if the turbo to down pipe bolt pattern is the same on all cars? please help!

Thanks. 280HP?, I have heard many different and confusing things about power outputs including- A- jap cars are more powerful B- japs are less powerful C-Uk Cars have the most power - US least D autos have 280, manuals have 300 E- Autos have different turbos to manuals Q-Please can anyone confirm a definitive on STD BHP ratings? (My car is a series 2 Jap TT manual.) Q -Are all of the turbo to down pipe bolt patterns identical?.......... (I really want to buy these downpipes and decat pipes..... but Texas is long way to take them back if they don't fit!)

Hi Eric, thanks for this. Has anyone fitted these on a J-spec? Q- is the bolt pattern on the Turbos- where the down pipe bolts on- the same on J-spec cars as US cars? Leonard

Hi- can anyone please tell me- are there any differences between the above?I'm thinking about getting some S/S downpipes and decat pipes from US but I'm unsure if they will fit my jap TT Leonard

Hi Ajay, if my cheque ever turns up (probably wont now, I posted it on 4th Dec!)... but if it does.... just stick it in the kitty Leonard

Finally looked at this yesterday. Swapped piping from one BOV to the other etc and still to dumping. Took said valve off and the brass piston was seized in the bore. (The car had been lying unused for 6+ months until November) I took the piston out and polished it and the bore, oiled it up, put it back together and refitted it. Now working as it should- louder than the other one as it goes- I'll clean that one up next week. Leonard

Hi- I had a similar problem- Took the car out, it felt a little sluggish then cut out. I managed to get it started again, so I checked out the link to 300zx.org, and there was a list of things electrical to try. With the engine running, the first thing I tried was the crank angle sensor connector, I touched it (Only moving it very, very slightly) and the engine cut. I unclipped it, cleaned it and sprayed with WD40 and since then - no problems. (It'll probably die now that I've said that!) Leonard

Hi- I've just paid the subs via Paypal. Please let me know when this takes effect from thanks Leonard