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Thanks mario, il wait till i get a reply from the seller then il think about buying :D

yeah il be interested in a few bits too once is dismantled cheers....

So these are the real deal then. VG30DE and DET ?????? Can anyone else confirm they are the correct fitment for me? Ive emailed the seller a couple questions and his feedback is all positive he has sold quite a few as it looks. :D your help will be erm......... helpful :D

check to the left and right side of the engine under the rocker covers there are two flux capacitors they are round shaped blue diamonds with loads of wires coming out of them with lots of numbers on them, they could be set to the wrong setting causing acute time rotation Making you think your going fast but really your only coasting and your engine is only running on 1/3 of a cyclinder coz all your rings are wrapped round the offside turbo shaft propellor creating unrealistic never neverland boost.

bbwaaaaahhahahah man youve made my day..... So wouldnt the heat burn off the stuff? Can u post up some pics so we can see whats going on in there? Well u can always buy a new hub from andy supercar parts for real cheap and put all ya bits on it......

ok cheers matey :D and also who painted your cam cover and rocker covers? im thinking of painting mine black too looks sexy :D

:P

Poor thing, Id have loved to take it away and feed it :( bring it back to health.

What a genius.... Why havent i thought of that... Doe he know if they have tried it?

Wohoooo first person on here to get positive feedback :D:D

:bow::bow::bow: any spares lying around for me there? maybe an anodized screw?

hhaha.. i feelfor u mate. ok lower arm is easy, just undo the antiroll bar link first, then losen off the bottom balljoint nut with a spanner i think its a 22mm, but this part can be tricky coz the whole joint may start spinning once it comes in contact with the rust ontop of the thread. If this happens then the easiest thing to do is get a jack under the ball joint so it is under load with the hub, then it wont spin, then loosen the two nut and bolts that connect the bushings to the subframe, then you got to wiggle it out. easy once you get started.

Did you try drilling through the old ball joint, using a bigger size drill piece each time you go through? Man you must be very pissed at the mo, u gunna make z008 u think? The rear hub isnt such a hard job but will take a bit of time.

YEP that too but its unlikely but still a posibility..... ive had about 5 orders so far and all been good.

how come ive never seen that website before?

uhuh so still some hope....

ah yes i have not read it fully.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagle-H-Beam-Rods-for-Nissan-300ZX-VG30-BRAND-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122QQcategoryZ33623QQihZ003QQitemZ130220605285QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD2V

What make? venon?

Yeah i bought quite a bit from them but its hard to get a discount, i only managed 80 dollars off a $1700 bill. But i did manage to buy the rebuild kit minus a few of the bits i didnt need which saved me a bit. I didnt need the cam belt, water pump, tenisoners etc so they sorted me out a separate price.. But make sure you get them to reduce the value on the customs form or you WILL get stung proper.

So how much do you wanna let them old hard pipes go for?

Well heat the crap out of it.. blow tourch it for a minute. The hub is aluminium so the bush should come out eventually with heat im sure. at least burn the glue off it and get a 20mm socket or whatever size fits in the hole and whack it.

Have you grounded of the side with the lip? if you have and it still wont punch out then try heating the hub and not the bush then punch it out.

Only the uk versions came with leather i think.

LWB more stability on longer faster corners. SWB more responsive round the shorter corners, its also lighter so slightly better braking and acceleration. Targa T-tops= same thing, the roof can be disasembled in two pieces which leaves you with a T shaped bar in middle and no roof so you can stick your hand out and wave to all the woman. heellloooo Slick top= a roof with no sunroof or targas which in turn gives the chassis less flex and makes it more rigid better for handling etc. Bear in mind when buying a uk 300zx as they tend to have alot more rust than a jap import due to salt laying on the roads. But you can of course find a very good example for 5k with no rust fsh etc etc I bought myself a jap import for 2000 which needed some work but this way i was able to modify it with the extra £££ to how i liked it and recondition alot of the mechanical parts: suspension steering etc but its your choice what you do with the money.