gibbon666

You've lost me there. If you can flow 2X amount of air, does it not mean you can then add more fuel and have more power? I only asked this as I saw an unusual Z on TTnet that had a pedal box fitted. This meant that the cylinder was right behind the pedal, along with the reservoir. Does that mean that the brake booster would then be after the cylinder?

I'm still trying to figure out a few things about turbos, and the theory behind them, so I've got a few questions to ask. Some of this is just thinking out loud and trying to see if it makes sense, but tell me if I'm right or not. I might use some wrong terms here cause I'm a bit fick when it comes to cars :) Single turbo on a ZX is presumably difficult because you have to feed the exhaust gases from two sides of the engine to the single turbo inlet. This means that either you mount the turbo in front somehow (and move radiators fans and things to allow this) or can you run different length feeds from the different manifolds sides of the engine and set the turbo to one side? Does running longer feeds to the turbo create more lag or just a pressure drop? Would this pressure drop be the same as you would presumably get from running the output to an intercooler - if so could it be compensated for by mounting the turbo near the intercooler anyway - longer exhaust gas feeds, but shorter intercooler feeds? Do the feeds from the turbo output to the different sides of the engine have to be equal length? Why do most of the TT setups on 300ZXs produce less power than many single turbo setups on other (modified) cars. Is it just lack of room to put a pair of bigger turbos in? Do 2 turbos running parallel create much more power than the same model turbo running on it's own, or is there some other benefit? I've heard about spraying water/nitrous/co2 on to the outside of an intercooler and I understand this concept, but I don;t 100% get water injection. With water injection the water is injected in to the airflow (presumably after the airfilter but before the err... is it the plenum??? I said I was fick when it came to naming parts). I thought water in the engine was bad - or is it just that the quantities are so small that it all evaporates? I haven't seen to many cars in mags and on the various forums that seem to run water injection. Any reason - is there a big downside that I'm not seeing? On a totally different subject - how much difference does the brake booster make and does it have to be before the brake cylinder or can it be after? Any answers appreciated:D

That looks really, really cool. He's done an excellent job. Is it petrol or battery?

...or is the driveshaft a weak point?

When the speedo is converted to MPH (using the cheap method), does the odometer and trip counter continue to rack up the distance in km or does it start using miles?

I had something similar on a car I used to own (not a 300zx) and it turned out to be the fuel pump (it was on it's way out and then died - required replacement). There were a bunch of tests which the AA guy did before he found this out, but I haven't a clue what they were. Maybe someone on here will be able to tell you what tests to run to check the fuel pump.

I can see I'm going to have to spend more time on eBay:)

That is really cheap - I've just checked a few prices. Were they sold as new, or part used?

Was that a new price? I haven't checked tyre prices yet but that sounds really, really cheap. What size are they, 17 or 18?

On the very edge of Oldham (Manchester) - OL7 postcode. It's not garaged but it is well off-road in a private car park at the flats where I live. It's not like anyone even comes down to these flats unless they are visiting someone here - it's not a through way or anything like that. I though that a CAT 1 and a tracker (if I went with Direct Line ,A-Plan didn't need one) would make it relatively unnickable, but the insurance company think different. If I was insuring me I'd be more worried about it getting crashed :D I've seen me drive and it's very worrying :eek:

I was wondering if it was even for my car when I bought it, as the guy on the phone at the breakers didn't know anything about 300's and I was just trying to check that it wasn't some old shape 300 or something. The minute he said it was £80 though, I just stopped trying and bought it. I figured it was worth taking the risk, especially after I looked on the Zeemax site and saw it at over £600!!. After fixing my electric folding mirror and now buying this wing I'm well happy this week. If this wing goes on ok, I'll probably start getting over-confident with my (non-existant) car fixing skills and do something stupid that I have to get fixed at a garage :) Talking of which - know where I can get a pack of the plastic pegs that hold the door card on? The door cards a bit loose and I'm going to pull it off at some point and replace the pegs. :dance: Have you noticed that this little banana guy dances in time to EVERY tune.:dance: I've just listened to Marilyn Mansun followed by 2fast 2 furious, and grinding and he gets it right every time. Cool:D :p :rofl: Too much caffeine:slap:

I wish I could get cheaper insurance - I just phoned Direct Line, because someone further up this thread got quoted £860 for a Jap 2+2 TT. My Direct Line quote for Jap 2+2 TT, HKS exhaust, 17" Wheels and no other mods - £2800 for fully comp SDP +Commuting, 6000 miles a year, Must have a tracker, 27 Years Old, 3 Years no claims, No accidents, 1 SP30/3 points. And that quote was with a £1000 excess :eek: A-Plan are cheapest for me so far - £1690 fully comp. Apparently areas are rated between 1 and 99 for theft, 99 being worst. I live in a 93. So I figure that my car will get stolen at least once every three years based on that premium. I'd hate to pay almost £3000 a year on a £6000 car and not have it nicked. It'd feel like I was paying for nothing.:rofl:

The tailgate had a couple of dents in it, so I can't just bolt it on. I also need to respray the wing to match my car, but good suggestion.

Anyone had their white 300zx nicked? :D I've got your wing and you can't have it back.:dance: It's not nicked - it was a proper breakers yard - I'm guessing they just didn't have time to dismantle it and they've probably already got their moneys worth out of it, as when I spoke to them even the turbos had already gone.

2+2 is a little more practical (them rear seats hold loads of stuff - well some stuff at least), but if it's a second car then I'd say go for the 2-seater. It's less common, so you'll have something different to most other Z owners. You might find it a bit harder to get body kit parts for the 2 seater though, although I think it's just the side skirts that are different length.

I noticed a couple of cracks on my stock wing the other week, so I put a request through the internet breakers for a wing. 5 minutes later I got a call of a place with a Zeemax wing in stock for just £80. :dance: Bargain I thought, so I ordered it. Today, the entire boot lid, with glass and the Zeemax spoiler turned up. This long winded story leads me to my question... While taking off the wing (which I haven't finished yet) I noticed that it seems to be held on by six screws and gallons of silicon sealant or similar. It's taking me ages to get the sealant off so that I can remove the wing (probably why the breakers just sent me the whole thing). Is it normal to use sealant to complete the attachment? Other than 3 screws each side (behind the little panels) should there be any other screws, as I can't spot any? Any easy (quicker) ways to get this spoiler off the sealant without breaking it? I'm just working at cutting through the sealant at the moment with a combo of knife blades and similar. And one last one - anyone write off a white 300zx with a zeemax wing recently? :slap:

Do you know what spec PC is going to be required to run the Zemulator? I've got an old Toshiba Libretto (tiny little 7.1" widescreen laptop) with a P166 MMX and 32MB RAM that would look pretty cool in the Z. What are the Pros/Cons of the Zemulator over a Greddy e-01 and e-manage?

Jezz - Just read a few bits on the Greddy E-Manage setup. Would I need to get to a Greddy dealer (with a rolling road) to get this set up correctly? The Greddy website seems to say that a lot of the features are locked out unless you are a dealer/tuner. Is it a lot cheaper than the Unichip? The Unichip seems to go for around £440 with setup, the only prices I could find for the Greddy suggested around USD $400 (£275) without setup for the E-manage and a couple of the basic harnesses. Lymon - All the info on doing my own chips makes sense, but I don't think I'd be confident enough to go for it myself (this is my daily drive, I wouldn't want to break it through my own stupidity:D ). If I ever get to the stage where I have a second Z that I can mess about with then I'd probably go that route.

It seems to be a bit better now - it wasn't much different after I'd cleaned the throttle bodies, but a day or 2 later it started to improve - I don't know if the last bit of dirt was clearing out or if the grease was working its way in. The last bit of the rev range (2000 down) still drops fairly slowly, but at least it drops :) Thanks for all the help and advice:D

I'm still deciding which mods to go for, and I was a bit suprised to find that most of the ECUs out there (JWT etc) aren't reprogrammable. I don't know why, but I just thought that they would be tuned to each individual car. So - I'm wondering if a Dastek Unichip would be better? Any experiences good or bad? Also, does anyone know if it works with Boost controllers and afcs? I was thinking of going for the SBC-ID 2 or 3, with the powermeter thing and maybe (if it's worth it) an Apexi AFC. Currently there's just a HKS Superdragger on my 91 Manual TT, so I was also going to add an induction kit and a decent clutch/flywheel. Does this sound like a good route to take? :confused: Oh - and some extra gauges as well. And a wing :p All advice appreciated. Now all I need to do is get my old car sold to pay for all of this and cover the huge insurance premium :)

If it's a grand less then that'll mean I can spend that grand on more stuff for the 300. Yesss :D Couldn't find Syko's ride in the rides section last night - also tried a google search with no luck. Any chance of a pic Syko?

I had seen zcentres page before, and I'm thinking of mixing and matching a few different bodykit parts. I might drop down to z centre in the next couple of weeks to see what they can do performance wise as well. It shouldn't take too long to drive there from Manchester and I've only had the 300 for 3 weeks, so I'm still looking for excuses to drive it all the time. A trip to Nottingham should be a good excuse for a fun drive :)

2.5K doesn't sound too bad - of course theres fitting and painting on top of that :rolleyes: Any idea where I can see a pic of Syko's 300? I'd like to see a "real" Veilside kit and not just the factory pics that always seem to look nothing like they do in real life.

Still trying to decide between styling or performance, and want to know if there is an Abflug supplier in the UK so that I can weigh up some prices. The pic below has me leaning slightly more towards the styling, but everything depends on price (until I have the cash to do the styling and the performance). http://www.z32.com/newpics/bluzee2.jpg Noticed that Grasshopper do Veilside kits. Anyone know how much the Veilside C-II kit costs (I could wait until tomorrow and phone them, but hey - I'm impatient :) ) http://www.veilside.com/veilsideusa/aero/nissan/300ciifront.jpg Thanks for any help.

Anyone know what body kit it is on the orange zed?