gibbon666

Is there a guide somewhere to removing the air con? I'm sure I've seen one, but just spent 20 minutes searching and can't find it.

Is it possible to remove the engine with the gearbox still attached? Or do you have to remove the gearbox first? Curious to know, as I know that some cars they can both come out together. I should be removing the engine this weekend, so am planning ahead for the final stages. It's almost ready to lift now, just need to figure out what I'm doing with the gearbox and a couple of other little bits.

Pretty much everything on the engine is going to be modded. Injectors, turbos and loads more.

Yeah, I can just imagine the conversation now. Me: " Hi there, are you any good at doing job xyz" Garage: "No mate, we suck, try somewhere else" I was kinda asking for independent opinions. I don't think I've gone in to a garage yet that has admitted it can't do something.

Have you had any work done by them? What sort of level are they at (just rebuilds, or major upgrades)? I'm also looking for somewhere local (Manchester) to do the work on my 300. Looked at Performance Heaven so far, but hadn't heard of C&S before.

Looking at getting some engine work done soon (ish). What do you reckon is a reasonable price for the following... Remove and reinstall engine. While engine is out do AIV Removal, EGR Bypass, PRVR Removal, CC Bypass, replace PCV valves, Throttle Body water hose bypass, Fit metal head gasket, remove aircon. Any ideas on price before I start phoning round garages. Hoping someone else here may have had this done. While I'm thinking about it, who in the Uk supplies overbored throttle bodies for the Z?

Have to be carefull with weight distribution. The 300zx is 55% front 45% rear, so reducing weight from the rear and not the front will have a negative affect on handling. Don't worry about that, there will be a lot of weight gone from the front. With the plans I've got, it's going to be more for drag use than track, so handling isn't a huge issue.

Ah, I understand. :D Like vertical window then horizontal boot on the MR2, not a sloped one like on a Z. You are right though, I was looking more for a normal style fiberglass one. Just thought there'd be a lot of weight to save there, but didn't really want to change the appearance. Just weighing up (no pun intended) things for a project car that I'm starting soon.

Bathtub style one :confused: You've lost me there. I mean a whole tailgate, not just a spoiler if that helps.

Does anybody do a fibreglass tailgate for the Z32? Preferably one that will take a perspex window. Or is it an expensive custom one-off job?

I had a look and couldn't see any plastic rings. Any other ideas?

Just got a set of standard 16s to replace my buckled 17s and ran in to a problem. When I try to put them on I noticed that the centre bit on the inside of the wheel (don't know the name of it - like 4 lips that will sit arounf the hub) doesn't sit flush on all 4 wheels when fitted - it does on 2 and looking at the inside of all 4 wheels, the lips seem to be deeper on two. It also seems that these lips are too tight around the edge of the hub (I think) and this won't let them push on all the way. Bit confused as these wheels are supposed to be off an 89-92 TT and even have the Z centre caps. Is there a difference between UK and J-spec or something? Not sure if these came from a uk or not, but mine is 90 j-spec.

Ouch - off a guy with a -2 rating as well. I'd steer well clear if I were you Pete.

I had -1 at 9am this morning as well. Bloody freezing - had to sit in the car with the heaters on until all the windows unfroze. I sure as hell wasn't standing outside scraping it :D

IIRC the general electric fans that seem to be in use are pushing (pulling in this case) around 2200 to 2400 CFM. I don't think it's anywhere near as high as the stock fan, but it's not for a daily driver and I was thinking of putting in an aftermarket radiator as well - so hopefully the better rad will compensate a bit for the slightly poorer fan. I wasn't sure if the pusher cooled anything else. I might have to dump the aircon then. It would have been nice to keep but it's not critical.

If you replace the stock viscous fan with an aftermarket electric one, do you still keep the auxilary pusher electric fan?

mmmmmm..TD06-20G :D

Quote from Z1motorsports site - "Shared plenum design. This setup evenly splits the intake air volume to maintain equal flow of air through both filters. Not only does this eliminate the need for low load drivability hoses to be installed, but it produces consistent A/F results from one car to the next. What is a low load driveability hose?:confused: And you aren;t allowed to say that its a hose that improves driveability under low load:slap:

I've noticed that there are tons of threads about which is better, manual or auto. But this question isn't quite about that (although its close). The general consensus seems to be that the auto has problems above 400-450 bhp. So what's the weak point? Is it just the torque converter or is there more to it? What needs upgrading to handle more power with the auto box? Oh - and should this be in help and advice or general discussion? :D

The washer motor, water source, nozzles and plumbing wouldn't be a problem. I've got some ideas where to get them. I just could do with 2 or maybe 3 of these controllers, as I've got uses for the other ones. I'm a cheap ******* though and don't want to pay out full price for 3 :). As it's for a one-off install, I'm not looking for a pretty boxed kit or anything, just copies of the board, unless there's a better way to do it. No doubt all 3 separate triggers and controls that I want could be wired in to one box, but that involves original design etc and would no doubt bump up price/time/testing. I've put the links below for the aussie board. The concept behind when the spray triggers seems logical and quite clever. Review of the aussie water spray The manufacturers site

Just checked Greddys site and you're right, the E-Manage can control 2 extra injectors. Hmmm... E-Manage + E-01 is tempting. I also checked the Dastek Unichip site as well (as it is just another piggyback fuel management setup) and apparently that can control extra injectors as well, although it doesn't state how many. As I was planning on some sort of electronic management anyway, this gives me 2 options to look at now. Although I haven't decided how much power I want to acheive yet, I was thinking of going for something around 660cc injectors and then a couple of supplementary injectors for when high level of boosts kick in. The Greddy might be better, as then I could set different maps for low boost setup/road driving (whereas the Dastek has to be done by a dealer I think). 51x - Have you done an IC fogger/mister/spray thingy while you've been playing around with electronics? Or could you copy one if I bought an aussie one that looked quite good?

Which injector sizes are available for a 91 TT? I did a search, but can't seem to find the messages that tell you this, although I'm sure they are there somewhere. Was it 440, 550 or 555, 660, 720, 850? Or were some of these for later models only? Is it only around 850 that they affect drivability - and is this just because of less smoothness at low revs?

Well now that I know that there are off-the-shelf supplimentary injector controllers available that makes things easier to understand. The idea I was toying with was a semi-budget upgrade (not including cost of new intercooler, ecu, turbos, suspension, intake, fuel system, etc, etc...). I thought that there may be some extra benefit to running the supplimentary injectors, or a big saving by using supplimentary stock injectors from a scrapper. 51x - Does that supplimentary injector controller that I'm not supposed to talk to you about actually work :) or was it an abandoned project? And whats with the picture of the french toilet - a final resting place for the supplimentary controller?

TTnet link I'm somewhat amazed/intrigued by this Z on TTnet. It's an old link so I didn't think it was worth asking any new questions on there, and I thought I might get a better (more detailed) response here. The bit where he says "Rather than 555cc injectors he just used two supplementary TT injectors and he is running around 90 psi fuel pressure under boost." has me wondering. So would that be a fixed 90psi, injected the same way that the extra fuel is for nitrous? (to the inlet manifold or cylinder head). I presume it would be linked to an electronic boost gauge or some sort of boost pressure switch to trigger the extra injectors when positive boost is shown? How would you stop it running rich under low boost? The only thing I could think is by setting the air/fuel map so that the standard injectors drop to a lower flow/pulse than normal at low positive boost when the supplementary injectors are kicking out full 90PSI (more than needed). What are the pros and cons of this system? Presumably lower cost than higher flow injectors, as long as you already have an air/fuel controller? Would the fact that the fuel is being mixed in at the inlet manifold like nitrous mean a less even distribution of fuel than separate injectors?

I understand the whole sequential turbo thing - I actually find that easier to understand than the TT setup. Forgetting that the rest of the engine would need upgrading for now - presumably the reason why each of the turbos produces less power is something to do with each only being supplied with half of the exhaust gases, whereas on an Inline 6 all of the exhaust gases are going through one turbo. Is this right? So if I fitted a single XYZ turbo being supplied all of the exhaust gases, it would produce the same power as 2 XYZ turbos each getting half of the exhaust gases? Presumably though the single turbo setup would have the turbo running faster than the twin setup (twice as fast if there were no outside factors)? And as it has to spool up to a faster speed there would be more lag. Have I got this right?