gibbon666

Anyone? Someone must have had this done on here. MAC1 maybe?

I need to get my block machined for larger pistons, but I've read that it should be done with torque plates / deck plates in place. Anyone know of a machine shop or garage that already has the plates for a vg30? don't want to foot the bill to get those made.

IIRC The guy who bought that couldn't get planning permission to site it at his pub, and also got quoted some immense fees to move it. I seem to remember the figure was in the tens of thousands for moving it. Not sure what happened in the end.

Thanks for the advice all. Dremel and chisel sorted it. After hammering away at it for a while the feeling of satisfaction when the sprocket split was amazingly high for what should be such a simple job. You can tell I'm a total amateur. I'm just happy when something comes apart :D I've got the engine (almost) totally disassembled now (apart from the dipstick which is stuck fast), so the hard part comes soon - reassembly.

Doesn't work. Not enough clearance to get the legs behind the sprocket. Think this might be the way I go. Tried heat and oil (and screwdrivers) with no luck

the crankshaft timing sprocket - knew I'd find the name for it somewhere

How do I get the cog at the front of the oil pump off? (The one that the cam belt runs on - I'm sure it has a proper name). It doesn't matter if it's wrecked as the oil pump is being replaced.

Sent you an email now marc. LMK if it doesn't come through. Graham, you can have first dibs on any parts Marc doesn't want, and any other parts I pull off my car in the next month or so. :smash:

Anyone want my stock TT exhaust? it's pretty much the full thing, cats and all, with a hks superdragger at the rear. Only thing that's been done to it is the 2 wire things that go in to the cats were cut. It's in audenshaw (edge of manchester) and it needs to be collected soon. also got air con compressor and some random other bits. I think I've still got the stock rad (looking a bit rusty) and probably the auxilary fan (although I'll have to check it's still there).

You should be ok. I'm guessing that .7 is in bar, not psi. 1 bar = 14.4psi

I was reading up on recircs v blow-off valves recently. General info was that the recircs are better, unless you are aiming for big bhp (like 600bhp + iirc). Ok - just checked my links, and here you go http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/bov.html Interesting reading (if you are sad like me)

The scaffolding pole worked. No rust on the bolts, but they had obviously been loctited pretty heavily. I'm right up to the point of dropping the gearbox (which is tomorrows job), so no doubt I'll have more questions then. Thanks for all the help.

errr...i was following the instructions where you seperate it from the diff, then drop the centre and take it off in one piece.

That's what my bro suggested as well. I'll see if I can find a scaffolding bar in the morning and give it a try. I wasn't sure if I was getting to the stage where the top of the bolt was just going to sheer off with the force.

No, but I did try my torque wrench and pretty much all of the weight I could put on it and it didn't want to budge. Not sure that I'd be able to get a good swing at it with a mallet as it sits up in the transmission tunnel a bit.

Trying to get the centre bearing support off the propshaft (think I've got the names right-ish), but the 2 17mm nuts are well solid. Have used a lot of wd40, a big bar and a ton of leverage but they won't budge. How the hell do I get them off? Would one of those little butane micro-torches help to heat up the nut/bolt :confused:

Yeah I noticed that too. That garage / tunnel looks awesome. Way better than the gravel drive I'm working on.

My Z is off the road and all over the driveway. I think it got parked there around august last year and I've only just got around to starting on it in the last week and a half. My turbo kit is sitting in my spare room just waiting for the engine to be fixed and the zillion supporting parts to turn up and go on. It wouldn't be that bad if my other fast car was working, but that's been fooked about with by garages for the last 2 years now (one of which I'm going through a court case with). I have to get my 300 up and running. The £750 auto Daewoo I'm driving now just makes me wanna cry :cry:

They are working at the moment. I just want to remove them for other reasons but thought it was wise to check that I wasn't going to cause myself mot problems if I did.

On your guide to removing the aircon, you mention that you should leave the stuff inside the green box. I take it that instead the connections can be cut right at the back where they go in to the firewall (at the 2 90 degree joints) without affecting anything else in the cooling system (the non-aircon bits). I traced the hoses back and didn't see anything else attached. I'm also guessing they can just be capped at that point and don't need to be looped together. Am I right? (sorry, can't post attachments or it would be easier to explain)

that's another thing for me to remove then. At the rate I'm going I'll just have a board with an engine and 4 wheels (and maybe steering). :D

Am i right in thinking that you don't need front fogs for an MOT?

Cool. I was very confused by them. I couldn't figure out anything they could be doing. Didn't want to junk them until I was sure. I'll throw them in to the pile with all the other bits that aren't going back on. At some point all the bits that I'm leaving off will be freebies on the forum. Why do I get the feeling that pulling my Z apart is the easy bit. I think that putting it back together might be a tad harder.

To the sides of the air filter/intake, there are 2 plastic channel things. They head in to the fender area behind the headlights and don't seem to go anywhere. What are they and what do they do? :confused:

That's the one :nana2: Thanks dude. I read that about 2 days ago, and then just couldn't find it last night.