JeffTT

Not until Tuesday, however if your desperate pm me and will work something out for you. Jeff

Attended this many times but last year did not due to the amount of traders and car manufacturers who pulled out. The other thing is the "trade only days" have been completely compromised by retail customers taking their kids!!...and teenage chavs perving over the girls on the stands! To anyone going remember your just 10 mins from Zedworld. Jeff TT

Hi Vijay, Sound like the thermocouple has failed, see here for full explaination http://www.akgas.co.uk/Potterton-Thermocouple/Potterton-Flamingo/Kingfisher-Thermocouple-402905.html Not a big job and not too dear for the part, however its a fine line on the Gas Safe issue, technically you will not be opening any gas connections so should ok but better a gas safe engineer does it, the service should have included a new one really??? the part is easy to fit if just a little fiddly, if it was my boiler I know what I would do :wink: Note:if the overheat stat triggered it sometimes is fitted with a thermocouple interuptor, the overheat stat may need resetting. JeffTT

Classic worn master cylinder, the new seals made it better but not completely, needs replacing with a new one or a known good used one. The ABS light on is most likely a wheel sensor on the front, if you did any amount of tapping or knocking at the hub area without removing the sensor first then they can break internally, the abs ecu has a check light on it, reading the flashes will identify the cause/ wheel sensor. Oh and when you change the master cylinder on its own you only need to bleed at the abs unit in the boot not the calipers. Jeff TT

The one you have fitted is from an early 300zx Z31 Jeff TT

Don`t forget the aircon belt needs to come off too. Jeff TT

Ok the ecu on the drivers side by the seat belt is the main ABS module the other part with the pipes in was the ABS actuator pump. The ecu`s on the passenger side is the fuel pump controller, a small relay attached to the frame of that is the interior light unit, and if a UK model a further small ecu is in the same area and is the adjustable rear shock absorber module. Unfortunately for you non of it is removeable without loosing a vital system. Jeff

In the boot area on the right hand side you have the following Ariel timer module Rear Speakers amplifier (UK spec only ) Light bulb failure module (behind rightbhand light cluster) On the left hand side there are two relays Jeff TT

Ok the latest update with pics.... the workshop area is getting very slippy but still seemed ok, but when I left to come home the access road was blizzard like, the Motorways seem ok in places but what tonight and tomorrow will bring is anyone's guess. So with a heavy heart I feel its best all round we cancel the event, it is so disappointing to get this close and the weather close in like it has, but we feel responsible for you guys and its really is not worth it for anyone to risk venturing out tomorrow to come to us. However on the upside it now gives us a damn good excuse to re-schedule it for after Christmas and make an even bigger event of it!!! So looking in the diary we are happy to announce the first Saturday in February as the new Zedworld Bash date....will be bigger and faster yeh!!!! well at least the January wages will have gone in the bank eh???? So sorry it is cancelled but lets look forward to Feb. 5th 2011 Zedworld Bash!! Jeff & the zedworld gang

Yes no worries. Jeff ZEDWORLD Unit 31 Coleshill Industrial Estate Station Road Coleshill BIRMINGHAM B46 1JP Contact numbers Tel: 01675 463134 (2x lines) Tel: 01827 311190 Fax: 01675 465737

Here you in stock and ready to fit, now just up the road from you in Coleshill. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=141731 Special Subscribed Members price £ 68.99 price fixed Jeff TT

If it is a standard bumper then no need to remove it, just remove the airbox and the plastic cover just behind the bumper at the bottom and there is plenty of room. Jeff TT

If looks something like this then its is the ABS unit so leave well alone. Jeff TT

These guys from Steer from the rear did not seem to have any problem drifting and performing on many occassions ( SEE LINK BELOW), only main issue they had was engines letting go from all of the high revs and oil been thrown away from the oil pick up in the sump......was ok for us as we supplied them. Jeff TT http://www.streetfire.net/video/how-to-steer-from-the-rear_160717.htm

In the traders section under zedworld Jefftt

Mmm.. rear hub bush removal can be tricky if you have not done them before and if using a press both rear wishbones need removing, even a garage would charge 3 to 4 hours expect around Jeff TT

Recently saw a manual zed with a poorly gearbox / clutch, due to an odd grating noise in the gearbox area which had prompted the owner to find a replacement gearbox and had a garage change it and fit a new complete clutch kit at the same time. Its does not take much imagination to understand his disappointment after collecting his car and finding the noise still there and worse within a short space of time selecting gears became very difficult to select, eventually back at the garage it became stuck in 2nd gear and that was it. So it was recovered to the workshop as the other garage were unable to find the cause of the problem??? it was at least in neutral now! With the zed up in the air the clues to the problem were easy to see, the clutch fork was twisted over and the slave cylinder was very extended, in fact dipping the clutch had very little effect as the fork was so badly positioned, little wonder selecting gears was such an issue. So the gearbox was dropped and the clutch fork, bearing and bearing carrier was removed, at first look it could be easy to not see a problem if unfamiliar with zeds. The clutch fork bridge was misshapen to a point where the bearing carrier side shoulders had worn excessively and in turn was allowing the fork to twist enough for the spring retainer to slip off. See how when compared to a good used one how the fork can turn around the bearing carrier and in the last picture how wide the fork bridge had become, how this damage had occurred is a mystery but surfice to say a new fork and bearing carrier and gearbox refitted all was good again and the grating noise...... GONE! from marks on the clutch cover the fork was just catching the spinning cover due to the twisting action. Damaged fork and bearing carrier assemblies can be responsible for many clutch issues and should not be overlooked, one mistake that sometimes occurs is the bearing carrier is available in different lengths to accomodate different clutch kits, get these wrong and biting point issues can occur. Thanks to Jamie for swiftly sorting it out. Jeff TT

The ecu or at least the chip is definately not standard, good for boost upgrade and more power yum yum. The throttle issue needs sorting and then the ConZult doing again. Jeff TT

Ok the lack of closed throttle hard idle switch is the reason the calculated ignition timing is so high at 31 deg btdc the waste gate solenoids and variable valve solenoids are showing active for the same reason, the injector pulse is also high for tick over but again the hard idle switch issue really means the information is flawed and needs doing again after the issue is resolved. Any starting issues could be attributed to the poor set up. The ecu looks to be fitted with a JWT chip or at least a clone of. Jeff TT

Correct!! Look forward to seeing the screen shots, meanwhile the 30 deg, is that what the ConZult read at normal operating temp? if so that means you have issues elsewhere such as temp sensor or tps hard idle switch. The 30 deg reading is not necessarily what the actual timing setting is, just a calculation within the ecu based on what it is been told from the live sensors readings etc. so basically its a wrong reading cause by an issue elsewhere that we will see soon eh? Jeff TT

Tech thread I did some time back Jeff TT Drivers side window issues? the window power amp controller has a habit of failing leading to an intermittent or non working window, lucky it is a very easy fix and free to boot if you can use a soldering iron. The unit in question is fitted in the drivers door, it is held in place with a single 10m bolt and has one 8 way connector plugged in to it, roughly just off central towards the rear of the door. Once removed the outer case needs easing off the lower connector area, the internal part then slides out in one piece. Photo 1 shows the internal parts of the unit and the pcb its all mounted on removed from the outer case, the two relays to the left are the output up and down for the window motor and the steel busbars to the right are the connection interface to the door wiring loom and the source of the problems. Photo 2 shows the unit end up where the connector goes in and again the source of most issues the unit suffers from. Photo 3 shows the rear of the pcb and the area in red is where the connector busbars are soldered to, not easy to see the problem yet. Photo 4 shows the problem in clearer detail, the pin solder has failed and this is the cause of the intermittent or no connection and the failed window operation. Photo 5 shows the method of repair, by applying a soldering iron to the effect area the solder will reflow and make a new connection. Photo 6 shows the final result, a nice solid connection that will get that window operating again, just put the unit back together and refit to the door. Happy fixing :D Jeff TT

The problem is common with all combi boilers as the pressure relief valve is not design as a system drain and as such the valve seal is very easily compromised by debris in the water that comes out when it opens, bet you it is leaking still due to some crap caught under the sealing disc. The reason why it opened needs checking though, is the filling loop connected all of the time but just valved off ? if so its possible the valve was passing a little and over a period of time over pressurised the system, this in turn opened the valve and now crap is caught under the seal. The other possibility is the gauge is under reading so it was inadvertedly over pressurised, or maybe the equalisation (pressurised) vessel inside the boiler needs pumping up. Jeff

Yes second that AA diagnosis may need further investigation to confirm it, if you have a serious hg failure they overheat real quick so even a drive around the block will show it out. Jeff TT

Do you mean this value should be around 33% ?? If you do this could cause the idle control to be excessivly active and lead to poor throttle close recovery, also when the engine was cold the valve % would be excessively high, this again could result in unstable idle control when approaching junctions. There is no need for the idle control to be open third of its max capacity, at full working temp with a well set up engine 15% is the target and is easily attained. Adjustment techniques such as this are often know as the SYS method and also refers to such things as throttle balance, timing, tps, air/boost leaks. By using the extremes of the settings on these items the engine will run reasonable but will after a short time need adjustments again as small changes do occur in use and with settings at border line they soon tip over into the wrong setting, bad for the car and bad value for the customer, Oh and the SYS method.......... "see you soon" :) Jeff TT

Here is the information you need to help make a decision, dot 4 is the best option when assessing cost agaist performance for clutch fluid that is, cannot see dot 5.1 giving you any clutch operation benefits, by far the best consistant performance option for both brake and clutch fluid is to simply change it at least every two years or if funds and time allow every 12 months. at leats that way the fluid is in prime condition. Jeff TT