JeffTT

Thanks everyone had a great day with lots of gifts, and family meals out, ended up been a three day event!! 😆

Definitely did not see you Craig would have been good to chat, plenty of catching up for sure, I did try and chat to Ian but it was hard work to be honest and be it he did or not recognise me I have no idea, came away somewhat disappointed either way.

Saturday, unfortunately missed yourself and Richard.

Agree the show was good albeit increasingly expensive to attend these days, but the many traders stalls was good, got lots of show goodies for my man cave. Sadly seems I missed the interesting guys on the club stand, barely getting a single sentence conversation ? no wonder it was so quiet. The Mr2 and Supra stands were heaving in comparison, lots of energetic guys happy to chat. Just my experience.

So there are sone oddball ideas had about lighting and how its switched on the 300zx. Firstly both headlight dip beam and main beam are operated by relays rather than directly from the switch. The relays are located in the black box on the inner wing passenger side under the bonnet. Next to the relays are individual fuses for the headlights. The relays have permanent power to them and the light switches in the car actual swith the negative (-) rather than power. This activates the relays and the lights then work. So its relatively easy to check the relays, pull them out of the base and check for power and the switching negative (- earth ) you can even temporarily fit a link to make the lights work. All of that applies to Import zeds and later UK zeds. On early UK zeds they were equipped with dim dip system that made the headlights come on half power as a sort of day light running lamp, dim dip was quote popular at the time. So on the earlier zeds there is an additional dip dip module which is in line with the relays and this can be a source of headlamp problems. The module sits behind the passenger wing under the wing liner. Due to the position it suffers from bad corrosion of the connectors, they go really green and cause all sorts of issues. If the problem is with the dim dip unit its just as easy to link it out. Surprised an auto electrician could jot find the issue, that said they are a bit odd how they switch units. So check the fuses, check the relays and and try a link in the relay base, if no luck its going to be the dim dip unit, which can be linked out anyhow.

The zed engine management is old school and does not have a limp home facility like modern engine management systems. However the gearbox does and usually will stay in 3rd gear once it goes onto that mode. The ticking noise sounds like lifters tick, sounds like half speed to engine revs, could be the wrong oil try a change 10w 40 semi synthetic( not full) and after if required try lifter adaptive.. ir actually can help.

You have clearly done some good background tech information but I am unclear why you would consider the later unit just because it does not have bleed nipples. The abs unit sits high in the car relative to the other parts of the brake system and as such naturally is best placed to get an air out of the system. Also a real benefit is any work done on the brake system before the abs unit including the front to rear pipework and the master cylinder itself can be done easily and only needs a short bleed at the abs unit without disturbing the wheel calipers or pipework, also an added bonus is been able to bleed the cross lines separately if required. I think also the ability to change the master cylinder without causing issues with the other parts of the system is a real bonus. The Abs system control module also has the build in diagnostic that matches the loom pin out on the unit, its not clear if this will still be functional. As the zed production continued on after 1993 and 1994 the Nissan car company were in financial troubleand as the z32 was not really a huge monetary maker for them to continue production cut backs had to be made. These cut backs are evident in the later cars with basic cord carpeting, ommission of the turbo gauge from the cluster and serious lack of undersealing. Other area such as the automatic climate control displays were dropped for the more basic manual non display controls. Many of the later cars went back to cloth seats although they looked like a nice upgrade from the old grey or blue cloth seats that some earlier models were fitted with it was basically the same cloth just dyed a different colour. The series two models with leather heated seats and alcantara door panelling were among the best spec. I think the abs unit was changed to save money as it was a cheaper unit, and very likely taken from a Nissan model in production at that time. Good luck going forward what ever you decide but for me I think its a backward step.

One piece propshaft will definitely be smoother and no centre bearing to deal with again, the centre bearing cost used to be quite reasonable but 2012 shot up in price.and ended up costing near as much as a propshaft conversion.

Yeh in 2015 ! where has that time gone ??

Hiya, I have a spare fuse cover in English if you need one.

Absolutely no need to go fully synthetic , a good quality 10w 40 semi synthetic with a genuine Nissan filter is more than enough to protect the engine and cheap enough to do 5k mile changes. Thats based on doing + 1000 oil and filter changes on zeds in the day.

ah okay,

Happy Birthday Richard, your zed is still looking sharp!

Thanks again all, been a while, are the old tech threads still about ?

just seen this guys thanks