(Z)Master

Yes but some do jam over time! Try twisting side to side and use a slight pulling force too but remember to mark its original position first.

Some u/j's have grease nipples which would be helpfull :)

Replacement time unfortunately:confused: Could try and get new u/j bearings! I am not sure if mike feeny can get hold of replacement u/j bearings or whether you have to buy a whole u/j kit?? I have seen Z32 propshafts with new u/j's so it can be done :)

Notchy propshaft u/j's will give a vibration.

are you getting negative from black?

Have you checked the o2 sensor connector to see if the heater wire is supplying 12volts (red wire if I remember correctly)? and I think the black is earth off the top of my head?

Marcus, clean up the Cas sensor connectors too! and while you have a plug out have a sniff over the plug hole to see if there is a smell of fuel in the cylinder.

Yes! sounds like ptu still! You should really clean up those connectors and try a known working ptu first. (process of elimination) Take a coil pack and plug out, reconnect the coil pack to the harness plug and insert the spark plug into the coil pack, take out the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over to Test you have a spark. Get some one to crank it while you check. Make sure the plug is touching an earth at the end. Unless you try and eliminate what it could be first no-one can help you! We should have a sticky/guide for helping to eliminate starting problems?

Have you checked the ptu??? and connectors (should have been checked first)

I entered my details :)

Whats it worth Lol :D

what the weather??:D

What weather???? its sunny here in somerset!! 24c and real hot Lol

Ok. At least you can do that without disturbing the Timing belt:)

You been sending him SPAM Andy????:D

I have never had to remove a bumper to do a waterpump or cam belt on any 300zx? Never heard of having to remove a front bumper before?:confused: Once the radiator is out you have tons of room :)

So has the water pump gone i.e bearings gone or seal, or was it the fact that the belt was just too slack?

They certainly do! Lol

Do not worry too much about the brass pin. I have some stock injectors where they are all broken. As long as the rest of the pin is intact as that holds the injector needle spring in and applies a set pressure to the spring and injector needle.

They need to be pushed through very carefully from the around pintle end Ie use a 10 or 11 mm deep socket and secure the rail so it does not get damaged. Make sure the socket fits aroud the pintle cap end and not on it. Pressure should be applied to the bottom of the injector not the pintle cap. I removed mine in a vice very gently though! Its the o-rings that make them hard to remove. Use new o- rings when refitting and use some graphite grease or petroleum jelly lightly smeared round the o rings.

I thought that was the same car but thats about 2 seconds slower than the first so it seems??

Lol Ian can't of seen it yet to comment:D

Ok Cheers for the Info Mark ;)

Wish mine could move like that? I wonder if mac 1's (Ian) could :D

we need some Z32 1/4 mile strip shots like that on you tube.