blackz32tt

Its still the standars gauge. it used to read -14psi. it boosts to 14psi but sometimes if u give it a good rev it will cut out and run like a bag of spanners

Holy thread revival batman!! :batman: A wee update on the car. Good news!! it was the drivers side turbo had legged it, promptly fitted replacement and smoke gone!! Yippee!!! :hyper: But........the car has a vacuum leak. When its ticking over the boost pressure is at minus 7. I removed the plenum a while back and never replaced the gasket :no: Ive been trying to find the leak ever since. ive removed all the iav hoses and solenoids. changed every hose with new silicone ones and still the leak persists. So probably answering my own question here, does it sound like the plenum gasket causing the leak?

A head gasket sounds probable actually. As i had no smoke whatsoever then bang! So ill need to check the compression. Whats the head gasket like to do on these cars? Possible costs?

Thanks guys. First off, the smoke doesnt go away. Its as soon as u start and doesnt get better when warm or revved. The car is sorned and at my work in kirkintilloch. Im gettin it moved to my new place in cumbernauld. This week sometime, hopefully!

Oh aye right enough! I forgot the aftermarket exhaust ive got has that x section. Its constant, as soon as u start, when revving, when warm. And it is using quite a bit of oil.

Aye afraid it is white. Well very thick greyish smoke to be exact. Very oily smelling. Its coming out both sides, if its a turbo seal would that be on just one side or both? Thanks for ur responses

Hi folks, not been on in ages as i got fed up bending over a bonnet fixing yet another problem! Haha. So ive taken the plunge and got myself a 350z. But i still have my baby, and shes crying out a lot of oil through both banks of the exhaust. ?ive had a wee peek about and there is no oil in any of the turbo pipes (inlet and outlet). And the pcv valve hoses are full, i mean full, of fresh oil. So hence the title, is it my turbos that have gone or could it be the pcv system? Or , hopefully, something even easier to fix. The problem just started literally overnight. I had no smoke whatsoever then suddenly it was smoking like a bingo playin chain smoker! Big deep breath before ur appreciated responses!!

Hi guys is there anyone in the glasgow area who has a spare maf sensor i could borrow just to check. As i think mine may be faulty.

Hi guys is there anyone in the glasgow area who has a spare maf sensor i could borrow just to check. As i think mine may be faulty.

Checked the injector thats ok. Its not getting a spark from cylinder 6.

Hi guys im on the scrounge. My car has been off the road for the past month with a idle fault and now ive got a misfire. Ive checked all coils and changed plugs. Ive got a spare known good coil which ive tried and theres no spark coming from it when i attach a plug to the end. its on cylinder 6. What i need is a loan of a ptu to try to see if it sorts the problem so i can rule it out. Im in the glasgow area and i dont mind travelling to pick it up.

Thanks for ur advice Jeff. Its hard to describe the problem. when u start the car it struggles to start and ticks over at 500rpm and bounces to about 600rpm then eventually cuts out. if i adjust the idle screw nothing happens. it is a known working iacv and air regulator that ive fitted. ive checked the resistance on the aac and ficd solenoid and they are all fine. if i rev it to about 1000rpm it runs fine with a "slight" misfire. i checked the plugs and there was a slight brown colour on the tips which suggests its running lean. all coils are firing and all injectors working too. i think u are right about the aav unit. when i disconnect the plug that goes to the aac on the iacv there is no idle change at all. which sounds to me as if the whole iacv isnt getting power. iirc its wire no 33 on the ecu, its the red one. i was going to try and run a scotch lock onto the wire at the ecu then connect it with a scotch lock onto the wire at the plug side to see if that works. I also removed the entire plenum and checked for leaks, i then rubbed some sandpaper onto the plenum and inlet manifold to clean up some old insta gasket. Then applied a fine layer of insta gasket onto both parts to seal. my egr piping has all been removed before i got the car. ive replaced/checked all pcv hoses and hoses going to and from the aav and air regulator and balance tube. but i can hear a hiss coming from that area! which is p***ing me off. i have an smoke/leak tester at work which i used to do the test. great piece of kit by the way!

yeah thats the led thats been removed! i tried another ecu with the led in and my immobiliser cuts the power to the ecu after 10 secs!!

Done all of the above and still not fixed!! im ready to buy a litre of petrol and burn the goddam car!! it will not idle at all now. if u give it a rev itll run with a slight misfire. ive checked plugs, coils injectors tps everything and im at a loss now. is there anyone with a consult as i cant do a ecu check as the bulb has been removed. please help!!

Hi folks. My car has developed a really bad idle. i couldnt adjust it with the aac valve adjusting screw so fitted with a new iacv unit. still lumpy. ive checked all connectors and the one going to the ficd solenoid is only gettin a feed from ground side. ive traced it back to the ecu where its sending the feed and tried a known working ecu too which hasnt helped. it might be a broken wire somewhere in the loom. so ill need to try that. but also when i did a leak test there was a slight leak in the plenum. so my question is this, would the ficd cause the revs to bounce on idle and almost cut out or could it be the air leak causing this. it seems to be getting worse. before it was fine when driving but now its not driving right either. Also is there anyone in the glasgow area who has a consult that could check it for me? Thanks in advance

yeah think mine are warped. are they in good nick mate?

Thread rezerection!! where were u getting the hub and bearing at £50? was that second hand?

Theres no play in any of the suspension. checked all bushes and arms everything is solid. has anyone got a spare couple of drive flanges they could lend so i could test?

We have a rolling road. But we dont check disc runout. We used to years ago but now we use the rolling road and minimum spec. I freed off all pistons before fitting new discs. I dont want to sound like a know it all but ive done everyrhing i can think of and i appreciate all ur ideas. Ive ordered new bushes from zcentre for tension rods in case they are away. And im going to swap discs and pads side to side and check on rolling road again. That should tell me if its the hubs eh? Hope its not hub cos nissan are lookin for £208 plus vat per side!! :( was thinkin of gettin a 350z as i had a misfire but ive since replaced the faulty injector and is now running sweet as a nut! Need this vibration sorted out tho!!

without sounding cheeky i am a manager in a fast fit garage so i know all about bedding brakes in. the ebc discs came from ebc through a ukpa supplier. they cost over £200. ive been lookin for a disc runout dial for weeks to test hubs and discs but noone has one anymore. the other new discs were cheaper Pagid ones from euro car parts but they are meant to be oe quality. im going to change tension rods (just in case). whats the best and whats the verdict on just bushes or full adjustable rods? cheers for all your responses guys!

Cheers mate. I think it has been replaced before cos there are no leaks and it 'feels' tight. Could it be the hub flange thats warped?

Been replaced! I look after the old girl but shes lettin me down now!! Whats a rough price id be lookin to get for her if id to sell her? Its a 94 uk auto full service history 18" demon alloys michelin tyres new all round. 139000 miles with a recon engine fitted with zedworld last year. Paid £3600 for it last august.

Yes mate! :p clean with wire brush until silky smooth!!

Ive recently replaced front discs with ebc drilled and grooved. And red stuff pads. After maybe 2 months driving ive developed a vibration at about 40mph under braking. I changed the discs and pads for brand new standard pads and discs and the problem seemed to go away. Until the other day when the vibration returned. They were only on the car for 2-3 weeks. Could this be the hub or is there something else causing the problem? Its doing ma head in and also costing me!!

thanx for the response! its done 139000 but it had a recon engine 2 years ago from zedworld. engine done roughly 20k. there was a couple of loose connectors next to the master cylinder. they have lots of boost hoses connected to them. might be boost sensor?? not sure. seems slightly better with them reconnected. also done autobox diag and came up with error code 3. throttle circuit. ive checked tps voltage and its at .46 so that should be ok?