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dannyfiveforty

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by dannyfiveforty

  1. I get tick over smoke, from one exhaust, before I commit to buying new turbos from the US, and totally rule out the engine, (compression test results are ok) if I disconnect both pcv valves/tubes and so the block vents to atmosphere whilst the exhaust is smoking, if it was the engine thats worn in theory should the smoke from the exhaust stop?? Thanks
  2. Anyone got a rough idea how much I should be paying for a retrim in an average quality black leather both front seats and the rear. Thanks
  3. Anyone have any good or bad experiences with 300zx turbo rebuilds, am after two builds on my smoky units. Thanks
  4. Where can I buy these from? Main dealer only? Thanks
  5. Thanks, I understand Mintex only do the one sort of pad for the 300zx? What discs are you using with yours also? Thanks
  6. I am looking at EBC and Mintex products. Can anyone offer any personal experiences with either? Also, struggling to work out whether green or red pads would be better for my car, the car never goes on track and rarely gets driven hard. The existing brembo pads that are on it now do seem to run out of puff though on the odd occasion I have braked heavy from speed. Thanks
  7. I am getting a steering wheel shimmy when braking and suspect the torsion arm bushes. I have seen that you can buy replacement arms for less than £100, does anyone have these? Or can offer advice on where to buy? Or, are the bushes still available to press into the existing arms? Thanks
  8. Thanks, I understand about the turbo driving the opposing bank, but what about exhaust side of the turbo? If the rear turbo seal had failed on the drivers side for example then the drivers side exhaust will smoke? Is there a blown up diagram somewhere that shows the route of boost? Thanks
  9. It's been 12 months now since the turbos were changed. Compression test was done prior and results weren't bad. What are my options for new turbos? I realistically want brand new oem units Thanks
  10. I am not losing oil or water. Car has done this for a couple of years now. I have changed oil several times and changed the pvc valves too. I have changed the turbos for used units which made no difference. Smoke is heavy white with blue tint and smells of oil. As soon as the revs are raised the smoke stops. Thanks
  11. If I disconnect the pipe to the throttle body when my car is smoking on idle, should this show me if its either the turbos or engine if the smoke stops? Thanks
  12. Thanks, as for Led strip did you just pick up a feed from the 501 supply? Cheers
  13. Which bushes is it that can cause the steering wheel shimmy under braking? Also, nearside only front AND rear I get a clunking if I hit a pot hole? What bushes can cause this? Thanks
  14. I replaced my bulbs for leds but they have lasted maybe 500 miles before one has completed failed and the others flicker. I have taken them out and reinstalled checking the connections but are the same. A link to a reliable led would be great if anyone has one? Thanks Dan
  15. Saw it tonight in leek staffs, I was hanging out my sl gawping at you haha. Awesome car, really tidy, Who's is it?
  16. Whenever my cars rear nearside hits a bump I get a loud creaking noise from that area. I can get the car to do the noise whilst reversing that side of the car up an awkward incline such as a ramped kerb at the side of the road. The car is lowered so it will be impossible to look for the noise with the wheels on. I have tried jacking the hub up whilst the car is on axle stand but that just lifts the car up. I have removed and re greased my anti roll bar bushes and also checked and re greased the rose joints on my adjustable camber arms. A clue might be that I also every once in a while get a clunk from the same area when hitting a bump, don't know if it could be related? What can I do to diagnose? The other side is setup exactly the same and is silent. Many thanks Dan
  17. I have these coilovers on my Z. Does anyone else? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADJUSTABLE-32-WAY-SUSPENSION-COILOVER-SPRINGS-for-Nissan-300ZX-Fairlady-Z32-4K-/111556464137?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item19f9488e09 The rears I have wound up quite a bit but am still not happy it is high enough. If I kept winding a coilover up eventually what would happen when the thread runs out, will they just stop winding or could the threaded part wind all the way out? Obviously I don't want that to happen, but have no way of knowing how much thread I have left. Thanks, Dan
  18. Over winter I installed brand new camber arms and coilovers and I am having an issue with the near side rear being extremely noisy. Everytime the suspension travels the car/suspension creaks. I jacked it up last night and double checked everything was tight and equal on both sides, it was. Last night after I checked I drove about 15 miles and the rear was silent. Tonight though the creaking is back. I am guessing as the springs hadn't settled there was less stress? Apart from actually raising the back of the car should loosening the tension of the coil help?? Many thanks Dan
  19. I havnt tried a different lead. I will get one at some point. Thinking back it all makes sense. Post #42 the doner car had no speed signal either, and no doubt the steering would have gone heavy whilst it was plugged in if I got the car up to speed.
  20. It's one from eBay that says Nissan-14 on it. It reads lots of info but won't read speed and as I say has caused me my power steering issue when plugged in. Thanks
  21. Fixed! Many thanks for the help guys. Today I set about finding the problem and went through and double checked everything with a friend. We were at the stage to temporarily rewire the whole circuit. During a coffee break I found an old thread. Seems I have always had my consult adapter connected. I have unplugged it and done a good 20 miles with no problem. We also checked voltage from the steering rack solenoid and it constantly gets lower as the speed rises. With the adapter plugged in it stays at a steady 5.5 volts until it instantly drops to 1.5 when the steering gets heavy. There is no variation when it is plugged in. The thread I found is linked below. Once again many thanks for all your help and suggestions. Without it I would have given up and spent a fortune on diagnosing it. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?178740-Ecutalk-plugged-in-and-unexpected-results
  22. Well I am getting a fluctuating voltage read up to and out of the clocks. I am also getting a steady voltage at the steering rack solenoid of about 5.5 volts when the steering is light, then as soon as the speed drops below 30mph it goes to 1.5 volts and stays there until I flick the ignition off and back on. I am going for it again Tomorrow morning and will be looking for a speed reading using a downloaded version of Consult and will probably start to temporarily rewire the circuit. It still seems odd to me that the problem only really started when I replaced my ECU as though maybe I have damaged some local wiring. But, that dosn't explain why I am still getting a matching fluctuation voltage at the plug from the clocks.. Many thanks Dan
  23. Thanks Stuart. Nick, in your experience could the speed sensor be faulty to cause my power steering failure but still give a good/accurate signal to the clocks? Many thanks
  24. I had a copy of Conzult on a disc supplied with my lead but everytime I tried to run it I just got winscript error messages. Do you know if there is a downloadable version somewhere? Thanks

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